Reddog

Does the UK have DNR's (Do Not Resuscitate orders)? If yes how are you trained to handle them on an unknown person?

A few pics from this morning at -20C.

They are neat and all, but my problem was the flip portion just breaking off upon closing. Or working along and seeing liquid pouring from the saw, upon further investigation the flip bar portion had popped/broken clean off. So in 25+ years of saw operation screw caps 0. 5 years of Stihl flip caps 2 failures. I would like to say the failures were from me manhandling or miss alining the caps, but it is just a short cycles to failure design in -10C or lower temps is my take. My fix which stemmed from some other answers from Stihl Corp, was to start switching my fleet to Husky.

I haven't done that in years, but I remember just prying it back open with the scrench. Now I need to go look at my 346 next time I have the cover off.

For my location here in the States it is Coopers hawks. But I don't worry there are plenty of House sparrows to feed him/her.

Work that one around in there for a bit and see if the eye loosens some. Then try the William. If it doesn't loosen enough to get the William in, then give the place a call where you purchased it and see what they say. The tight eyes I have were hard to get a carabiner in for the first few times also. But in long run I like that as the carabiner doesn't flop around.

Sounds like the same style as the Stihl one I use. Outdoor Power Tools | STIHL USA I know a couple thinners that use the Stihl ones with their Husky thinning saws. They claim for everyday wear the Stihl one fits better and lasts longer. YMMV. Outdoor Power Tools | STIHL USA

When the MS441 first came out there was some tuning issues. I wonder if the 201 suffers from a similar tuning issue. From Sawcollector on another forum this works well with the 441 may take a similar process on the 201

Firefox and AVG, running fine here.

Might give you some ideas on hardware supply in the US Brendon. Strap Hinge Enclosed Trailer Parts | etrailer.com

As stated above TIG is much easier to control for small jobs. In order for MIG to work right it takes a machine designed for Alum. Most have a pulse setting and different high frequency settings, that all need to be adjusted based on alloy and weld configuration. Small structural pieces are easier to MIG than large flat panels. Large panels take some trial and error to reduce warping and distortion. Also Alum takes a lot of heat to weld, so very quickly you can go from great to a giant melt hole in seconds.

Wondered what the J stood for.

If your country doesn't require "ultra low sulfur diesel" ULSD, not sure how much is to gain. That was the main start to it here in the U.S. In fall and spring our wettest times I add 2 stroke oil and antigel/conditioner. Mainly to help keep the moisture out of the system.

Two Carb numbers are listed in the IPL: Carburetor C1Q-S103 Stihl# 1137 120 0600 and Carburetor C1Q-S104 J Stihl# 1137 120 0602

Do you mean like this? https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=KAT+47851+RCB&catID= King Arthur's Tools

Yes the two I know of are used to dry harnesses and gear for sled dogs. When visiting I have put my wet Logging cloths and boots in and they where always dry after 8 hours even when full of wet dog gear. They both are walk-in boxes 8'long 4' wide and 6' tall with one end being the door. The inside is sealed and painted and the door has weather stripping to help it seal. Both have polystyrene insulation/blue foam on the out side to help insulate them as they are in un-heated space in -C temps. We messed around and put a electric space heater in along with the dehumidifier and set it to hold a 28-29C temp and things dried even quicker. But that only seems to be needed when the dehumidifier alone can't keep the box above 10C. Both are running 80+ pint dehumidifier units so that would be 37+ liter sizing. They are run at max fan and the lowest humidity setting. Both are set up to drain the water to an out side drain, other wise the machines shut off when full of water. Most times they are still running in the morning, but everything is dry to the touch. The big thing is loading the wet gear as soon as you can so it has the most time to dry before the next day. As to figuring the liters on a unit needed. Weight your gear dry and then when wet and figure out how much water it holds. If you are figuring a 8hour dry time take the units rating of how many liters per 24hour period and divide by 3. Then get a unit that will draw slightly more water in that 8 hour period than your gear will hold. I am not against over sizing the unit some as it will shut off when the humidity setting is reached. Also the more freely your gear can hang, open to more dry air in the box the more efficient it can operate.

That Coos Bay felling cut again!!

My feeling for here in the U.S. is that by showing the certs and years of service/experience, most private owners would apply it to cover any insurance training requirements for employment. But it will be entirely up to the individual owners discretion. Municipalities/Government would have to review it based on their training requirements, much more hit and miss on what is going to be accepted. Brandon, as long as we plan a few days out my schedule is pretty flexible. Drop me a line, would be good to meet up again.

Don't know if you have a supplier in the UK for Logrite tools. But their Aluminum handled tools are quite rugged. Hookaroons - LogRite Tools LLC The only draw back some note is the round handle. They feel it doesn't let them know which way the point is going by feel. I have never had a issue with that and like the replaceable points and ruggedness of their tools.

Yup, same guy. You still in the greater Lansing area also? From the Forestry/Logging side here in the Midwest and East coast, GOL is recognized with in the insurance groups well before the FS cert. From my dealings and checking the FS cert is only recognized for Government employees chainsaw training or wildland fire line jobs were you will be a Federal employee. If a private contractor here in the mid west or east coast it carries very little meaning. My take from studying both is that GOL to a new user for this area gives a much stronger and safer starting point than the FS cert for what they will be dealing with. The FS Cert was mainly written to cover West coast conditions and so at times does not seem the safer of the two for traits of hardwoods. If you ever want to meet up for coffee and discuss this more just let me know, I would be more than happy to share my findings and hear what you have found. Wally

Same to you and the rest of the Arbtalk crew!

What size tractor are you planning to use? I like to size rope and cable with a minimum of 5:1 safety factor when pulling based on the tractor weight. If I have a operator that is not as smooth and more likely to jerk the line I size it larger. Not sure what is standard in the UK. Are you planning to climb the trees to set the line or use a throw bag? Below are my thoughts on what is available at my location. Amsteel/dyneema, and Tenex are light and strong. But work best in eye to eye configurations. Using slings and shackles to connect at the stem and a shackle at the draw bar. So climbing to set the line is best. Stable braid will take more abuse in sliding or chaffing in the pull. So if some thing slips a little less chance of rope damage when set from the ground with a running Bowline at the tree and a shackle and a Anchor hitch at the draw bar. Cable when sized right works great from a strength, durability and almost zero stretch but is very heavy and time consuming to rig hard to take up slack. Up the tree a sling and shackle seem to be the best/easiest connection to the stem. Making an industrial prusik out of Tenex works to hook the cable to the draw with a shackle and make the system adjustable. But you need to test pull and make sure it doesn't slip. Also cable wears the tenex quite quick so checking it after each pull is critical. Just my .02 always open to learning better options.

So the longer the stem the more pressure the crown weight can place on the root zone acting like a lever. So if you were to measure the stress placed on the stem/trunk it would be highest at just above the stump to a meter or two up. So were ever you place the notch that becomes the fulcrum point for tensioning the back/holding wood. The higher you place it above the stump the more stress and chance of barber chair. May be fulcrum isn't right and it is more a stress riser in a loaded spar. I am open to any rewording that makes it better understood.

skyhuck types fast than me. He has listed the same things I would suspect.