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Marc

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Everything posted by Marc

  1. For the size of the tree you need at least a 23m platform which would include delivery, a 35 ton crane would probably be sufficient to deal with that tree and I'd hazard not far of the platform hire costs, but of course all you points are valid and its a matter of opinion. I only glanced at the pics as experience tells me there is know way for us to judge from a 2D pic the best way of tackling this tree and there is probably more than one way with the same outcome price and profit. Straight felling looks appealing, maybe the tree is deceptively big hard to judge from the pics but it looks to me a reasonable size, it also looks biased to the road and the drop zone just about big enough, thing is Beech from my experience doesn't have the kind of hold I'd want in its wood to make a precision fell in a built up area let alone with the graft and Kretz present. I,d have to see it myself to have a better idea, but my 2 pennies is still crane no straight fell to risky, mewp to costly and unproductive. It is interesting though to think about it and air opinion on how you would go about a fell like this.
  2. A crane should maximise your profits? For us crane work is by far the most profitable and quickest way to remove a tree. And if its the most sensible way then do it. I've been involved with a couple of big fells and done a little crane work, there is no hard and fast rule. Done some monsters in a day and some medium trees in 2, its all about the variables you could encounter that may slow the operation down. Good luck, hope you get it and that it goes well for you, no advice or truthfull opinion I could give from those pics as from my experience it always looks different in the flesh. Only that I doubt a mewp is the best option in this situation.
  3. Mulberry is what I'd say for second pic too.
  4. Heated rope cutter does not work on these cords! It's not that bad but could of been tidier.
  5. We've moved a fair few hundred this year alone. That is a good size though maybe pushing the envelope at this time of year but I think being Wellingtonia it has a fighting chance.
  6. We are not all fully brain functional like you Grease, whilst in your ramblings there are some truths, its just yet again been lost.
  7. Yes mate thats kind of the way I look at it too, the way we climb is constantly evolving and Fixed Line Technique is just another branch in an ever growing tree, see what I did there!
  8. At least it is now being discussed, nothing may change yet, the seeds are being sown. A far cry from a long time back when the whole concept of ascend or working off a single line was just completely dismissed as a waste of time it was like banging your head against a wall. Now though it can feel like its being thrust down my throat by the new comers on the scene which in some respect can harm the progress. I like Ian's new non chalant approach you either get it or don't.
  9. We don't use dynamic lines in tree work that I am aware of all our lines are static and not designed to take a fall on. Also I don't consider single line work positioning to be an evolution more of a sideways progression what is evolving is the tools that enable us to work off a single leg rathe than a rope doubled. Even doubled rope work has evolved considerably in my own career with pulley savers hitchclimber pulley ART products etc. Work on a single length of line is now easy and practical if you choose to do so with the new tools available.
  10. Climbing is inherently dangerous, in my opinion a Uni is no more so than any other device out there.
  11. Throw by hand and a throwpod, no excess junk to carry around
  12. I vote for Single Line Work Positioning SLWP, Seriously though abbreviations just confuse the hell out of people and is a situation that's hard to avoid.
  13. What stories are they I used ocean 10mm for years on a variety of lines over 5 types off the top of my head. but they changed it not sure what they did now it just doesn't last I like to get a good couple of weeks climbing out a hitch at least. Liking the armour prus again 10mm, 8mm always seems to get hot or bind tight for me and before you say it I'm slim at around 13st I think it's just a personal thing. Anyway armour prus I can get a month out of its good cord.
  14. No I imagine he means 70cm once tied as the fisherman knots use more line than you would think, cord is sold by the meter for me 3m is enough for 2 hitches. As for size of cord it's a personal preference, I find 8mm grabs very positively it can bind tight though with some hitches. I use 10mm on 11.5mm line I find it breaks (release the friction) easier and doesn't burn my fingers so much. If you can buy 3m of 10mm and 8mm of the same cord and experiment it'll probably cost the same as an eye to eye hitch anyway and give you enough to make 4 lengths to play with. Have fun experimenting.
  15. I bought one back in 2007 it hardly ever gets used, I usually just cut right through using a wedge to stop the saw getting pinch. Or cut out a small low profile wedge kinda like a thin gob not worrying about accuracy then do a step cut having that small wedge removed help to crack the step much easier so less strain on the old elbows.
  16. Marc

    The last 066

    It's amazing to see how consumer confidence has dropped with Stihl's latest generations of saw. Personally I loved the 361 so far the 362 has been good but to close to a 261 and nothing like the previous 361 if anything a totally different saw. The 441 this was a joke. The 461 though it seeming to be a little gem so lets hope this continues as we give it a good hammering. Lets not forget Husky is not with out fault to.
  17. Yes but you probably shouldn't
  18. Well he pretty much has everything bar a croll, and I like to ascend an access line with my work line on me, keeping the access system independent, this obviously require a little more expenditure. Those YouTube links you posted and the other info in this thread are all important and show srt access doesn't need lots of shiny new stuff to be effcient and effective. And your right about toothed grabs, personally I only like using them on appropriate lines, they are designed to strip the outer at low forces which then bunches up absorbing a fall leaving you on the core. If a rope has a tough outer it could cause the ascendor to fail, hence not great life support, as long as we are aware of this we can utilise our kit safely.
  19. Climbing rope is pretty much climbing, if its your first I would not get to hung up on which one, as long as its a suitable rope from a well known brand, Yale, New England, Samson, Elderid or Marlow to name a few will all be fine first choices. 13mm may be better to start out on as its thicker and easier to hold, 11.7mm is lighter something you may notice if you do big trees its mostly the tail drag you feel as the rest of the line is supported by the tree. It's your first line so just climb on it until your confident and found what kinda of prima Donna climber you will be and then choose a suitably fashionable line.
  20. The damage looks like it was done a long time ago, and yes I'd go with a monitor approach, not sure a reduction would give any real gains in terms of stability maybe a very light one to try and contain those affected at this height? Sometimes I think allowing the tree to move in the wind if the situation allows will help the tree put on reactive growth? I'm no expert though just worked on a few trees over the years and make my own observations.
  21. Carbide chains are expensive and to my knowledge not so good with metal and require special sharpening. We use carbide chain for removing ivy on walls or heavily soiled timber. I think like has been said clean up the base of the stump as much as possible, maybe even dig a little soil away to help get the saw as low as possible and cut from opposite side of fence.
  22. Small copse at the end of the garden, 3 other trees showing same problems. Well the detective in me would say the chances of 3 having almost identical issue with what looks like similar sized proportions is not likely to be a natural occurance. Small copse at the end of the garden...... I'm going to say radiative heat damage from a fire James you know the site would the position of the damage to the 3 trees possibly tie in with a fire sometime ago?
  23. Horses for courses like we say here, for me as a preference I prefer a toothed ascendor access set up, often we work in groups often 2 even had 5 up a tree the access line is set up for all to enter the tree rapidly and independently toothed ascendors are very quick to remove. It is good to become quick at transferring to a descent which is easy enough to do but does require a minute or 2. Still some very itresting points here you just have to find what suits your needs.
  24. You need at least a croll. You could use a hitch its just not as effcient as a toothed access system. You climbing on a treemotion?
  25. When I tried a prototype it was made of a lighter more flexible material, it was not about being more light weight it was about the material I,e the chassis of the harness (not the padding) having more give so it conformed to your body more and had little to do with actually being lighter although this was a favourable trade off I reckon. It was I believe the original intention of the harness to be this way and not with the much firmer more durable nylon reinforced rubber chassis of the original to come to market. The more flexible (lighter) version I tried was very comfy and I think thicker padding would of lost this. I've not seen in the flesh this new lite version in the flesh yet.

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