Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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Was it an accident? They drove through a road closure and diversions signs into the river. I know the area well enough it was a fools errand, alas had they passed they would of been legends! No matter what this is someone's ability to earn money and I repeat I hope they get it sorted with out to much financial strain I would not wish that on anyone.
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I like the look of the ART bollards, or the Buckingham porta wrap. At a push the Stein bollard is good. All out then a GRCS type device. 60m of something like Yale polydyne or Samson nystron, 14-16mm big fan of those lines as they have a nice bit of give. Teufelburger do a nice line the Sirius which is well priced last time I looked but feels pretty static, not a problem if your groundie knows how to let it run. 3 steel biners the ISC big dans are popular. Kong make nice slings which are heavy duty enough for most rigging. ISC snatch blocks good blocks at a fair price, DMM for bling and high qaulity. And dead eye slings as a rule of thumb you want something meatier than your rigging line for the block as it will be subject to higher loads so 18mm or higher. Personally not a fan of whoppies and loopies. That'll cover most rigging jobs big and small.
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One kit bag is never enough, and to some extent I have a form of OCD, I like my kit good quality hard wearing and need minimum fuss from me. I have 4 bags total, I hate bags with outside pockets and gear loops usually I only take 2 to site depending on what I need. I have one bag for climbing kit, it has my harness, main climbing line, silky, 3 throw lines and a small inside pocket for small accessories this is all I need for canopy work. My second bag is my access kit/srt gear 66m line and my rope walker system. I carry my spikes separate. Black Diamond touchstone is where it's at, had mine 6 years it will last another 6, it get chucked about I've even run over it, I do not treat it like a precious thing it's utilitarian. It's also waterproof.
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I am curious myself to, but I imagine if you drove your truck into an 8ft deep ford that was closed to the public that you may struggle to claim? But I hope it works out for them keeping my personal opinions on them aside.
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I doubt you would cause Kevin offence, imitation is the greatest form of flattery after all.
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Coordination and over coming that muscle memory is a tricky one but worth the effort, if your going to use one leg to assist vertical movement then periodically changing your leg is worth it! For me I only use the pantin to ascend using a rope walker system once in the tree I never use it, that's just my personal preference and suits how I climb. Also I really like the new pantin a big improvement over the old, I've always liked to be able to kick my leg out to remove the rope. I'm sure you will adjust and begin to like just how compact it is, those CMI ones are like having a brick stuck to your foot. Although the CT one looks good.
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Bang tidy sir.
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Had to block down a fat dead Oak stem this week one of those jobs where you had to cut cookies then cut them into 3's or 4's to shift them off the stem, used a combi can and a half of fuel with the 661 pulling a 36" bar all day. I found it very comfortable to use with no issues with vibs.
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If I was rescuing in that situation I'd whack on my spikes if needs be screw the tree.
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BenR stuck his neck out, but I got to say I agree. Although I have used spikes on reductions only when I cut out the limbs I was spiking on.
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Clever idea, And nice video Mr Witt looks like the ground crew understand letting it run, really liked those flat landings on the logs.
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They look nothing like a 441:confused1:
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Hmm does look similar to the wear I experienced with the mk1, I was hoping the added flare would smooth out the passage of the rope to the pulleys and chain, that's if this is the area that is causing the wear. Keep and eye on it and keep us posted. As a personal thing I preferred it over a Spiderjack it was intuitive to use and did not place your hands in a stressed position unlike the Spiderjack, also the self tending was spot on as I found the Spiderjack often tended when I did not want it to.
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Due to its design it works well with most popular diameters of rope, and yeah your going to have to cut off the splice, can your not cut off 4m to have as a spare lanyard?
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Could you post a picture?
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I don't know where all this negativity towards the 201 come froms? We run 6 201's. I have owned 3 200t's over the years. If it wasn't for our yard being turned over and saws stolen I'd of still be running a 201 as at the time the 540 had not been released. I bought the 540's to replace 3 stolen 201's, so now we run 3 201's besides 3 540's so think I'm in a good place to say that the gap is not vast. I'd like to point out that none of the 201,s have slow pick up if anything they pick up faster and rev higher than a 540. But so far on my time with both I'd buy more 540's they feel more solid even if not as nicely designed with the clean lines of a 201. I will also make it clear if your 201 is sluggish to pick up after being warmed up it is not tuned right!
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Yes you generally have to pull the slack through yourself.
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Effectively in that configuration your using the prussik as a stopper knot/back up to the fig 8 which I prefer over a soft lock, there is no point in using the prussik for descent.
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That's what happens when you try to open a flip top with a combi tool. Never had a problem with a flip cap in 7 years, screw caps give me no end of grief replaced more of those than flips, usual because guys wrench em tight with a combi a big problem when the saw is warm then cools down, finger tight FINGER TIGHT! Thank god for flippy caps.
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There are also kits like this available complete, containing 30m of line that can easily attached to your harness keeping ropes off the ground ideally suited for choking and bailing out on a single line. Freeworker - Sicherungs- und Abseilset mit Petzl Rig Abseilgerät - climb up high!
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Because it's not always practical or simple. I am a great believer in trying to be both modern and practical, moving a rope guide down past branch collars and other obstructions particularly is making big cookies is not easy. If I am snatching then I often set up my rope guide, once the snatch is made I'll move down to next snatch point finding it easier to set up block and tackle and put my gob cut in top roped. I will also do this with a choked line if the timber is to big for my pulley saver, I will tie a bowline with long tail so I can retrieve it by pulling on the tail.
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I only began using a wire core flip line again recently, for many years I just used my standard 10-11mm rope lanyard. It's personal preference on that although does give an extra margin of protection. As my back up similar to what you was taught although I climb with a hitch climber pulley, I just throw my splice round and choke it to the stem with a carabiner, with this method you reduce dramatically the strength of the carabiner, I tend to use Petzl OK which has a round profile so is better in this situation. What you describe is what I would consider best practice, you will be caught if your spikes slip out or you cut through your wire core lanyard, self rescue on a single line with an un aided knot can be hard though.
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I was working at Stihl HQ last weekend, I don't think they even know what the fuss is about, sales are high and dealers are buying lots of stock now before the 3% price increase.
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I usually just daisy chain my climbing line and bung it in just like that, a pillow case is a good idea though I just find it cleans better loose. Use a delicates wool cycle and do not put in washing powder unless it's soap flakes or other suitable product. Nik Wax do a rope wash I believe for both Static and Dynamic lines? We climb on Static lines, again I just rinse them when I can be bothered. Although generally I just keep climbing life is to short to wash rope it'll be dirty again next day.
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Who pays for damage from windblown tree?
Marc replied to Sylvia's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
£2500 to fell that wee Leylandii!!! God I love the Daily Mail almost as good as this article A poignant tale of why this woman cut down beloved cherry tree | Mail Online where they fail to mention how much this lady paid to have her tree removed for firewood as she is to poor to heat her home.... On topic though the removal costs will come down to the tree owner as for damage being the cause of high winds/exceptional circumstances I am not so sure. With your tree if they are recommending a yearly monitor it would suggest to me there is concern for the trees safety, although often the case is more that the report is only valid for a year, have you ever carried out work that has been recommended in these reports? If so what was it? Although I am no expert in this area, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be along.
