Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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I think it has to do with how load is applied, like Kevin I've always thought a base tie can be better than a tip tie as even though loads are potential increased we are loading via compression rather than lever which can be more favourable. Being adaptable is key, looking at the canopy, tree species and task ahead and using the best technique, maybe you want a natural redirect through a fork, or make a static redirect. Working with Marcus I always like his strategies, sometimes he will tip tie, sometimes base, sometimes use double rope, use Spiderjack or hitchclimber. Basically try not to adapt one method one technique for everything be creative and use the right tool for the task at hand. Living and working on the Island that is the UK we are lucky that our tree are generally short and stout.
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Can you mod the auto tune for more power less efficiency?
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I have a T540xp and a 201, I don't see much difference. But I would still probably reccomend a 540 over the 201 yet would be happy with either.
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Medium is probably right, but like Coleman I'd reccomend the Ali ones, my carbons have almost had it and I will be getting the Ali version.
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Small or large it doesn't bother me as long as the work is good the team are safe and effcient and the pay is over 30k a year as a general climber.
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Sounds like the same group who did us a few weeks ago same type of theft, I bet they only took Stihl power tools leaving virtually everything else. And I bet they really did make a nice clear route for themselves. In our yard they took time to cut barb wire and clear all the trash very thoroughly to make a nice clear route. We are Oxfordshire/Berks border I would not be surprised if it is the same group.
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Any resource to prove there is a penalty of £2000 if caught using a top handle on the ground?
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We have/had 5 201's 3 got stolen, so after all the hype I bought 3 540's for myself and the guys, I do like it, seems to have more bottom end power, it does have it flaws those Huckster mentions and a few others. The 201 is not perfec either far from it, but myself and the other guys would of been equally happy with 201's again. It certainly does not have 30% more power like suggested in other threads.
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I find just trying to body thrust less helps, the beauty of a hitch climber is its ability to tend one handed. I struggle to pull/thrust myself more than a few feet even in summer with grippy gloves. My advice probably doesn't help but it really is key to making your life easier. There is no denying it though conditions do make climbing more difficult and it just takes a little getting used to. And a pantin is simple a pic is not needed its a little rope grab that is strapped to your foot, easily clipped to the line below the hitch as you lift your foot the rope falls through it, when you stand down it pulls you up and the hitch making your leg do the work and not your arm in certain situations, it's a fairly cheap bit of kit and worth having.
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Don't see the point of eye to eye on your main climbing line, cheaper and easier to buy hanks of cord to tie your own, and you can play around a bit finding the perfect length. I tie fishermans as termination, and Knute to climb on. It takes a bit of time getting used to tying your own and getting everything dialled in but it is worth the reward, experiment try longer lengths with more sit back or a really compact hitch both have good and bad points. Here is a pic with an M Rig set up, basically I can unclip my spliced eye pass it around a branch or cambium saver and easily creat a secondary anchor point, it's also very easy to place a second self tending hitch in the to make them independent. You can also see the legs are quite long on this hitch I like it that way at the moment but next time I tie it I'll go short.
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I think the points have already been well covered by Yorkshireman, and now whilst I appreciate having done my NPTC's i am realistic enough to know these do not make me either qualified or competent to carry out this job commercially. Also not sure how doing NPTC proves you work to BS3998? So whilst the AAAC scheme may not be perfect it has its positives to.
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I got to one knee all the time, ringing and putting in felling cuts, I find it easier and more comfortable.
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25" and a 30", only really used the 30" in soft wood and it pulls very nice Jon, I think you'd love it. Like every thing it depends what you want in a saw, if it was a personal, I'd be tempted to get a Husky and port it. If I'm buying it for all to use it's got to be a Stihl.
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I don't see a problem with using a rigging whoopie/loopie, I think the confusion is using a designated rigging whoopie as PPE. As long as it was of suitable strength and construction bought with the intention of using it for PPE and "clearly" identifiable as PPE then it is and within best practice guidelines. Hell if you wanted to you could even use a snatch block as a pulley saver PPE, hence why DMM have theirs CE marked particularly for other industries like fire and rescue where they may use it for hauling a person. Although not all rigging kit is suitable for PPE for example a GRCS is not a practical belay device! As for using rigging kit to rescue someone I'm with you on that, if I as in a situation where someone could rescue me quickly using the rigging kit the last thing on my mind would be if its loler'd as PPE. Staying on topic a snake anchor is way more Pimp.
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So far we are very happy with ours, seems upto to the usual Stihl build qaulity something missing from a few of the more recent pro saws like the 441. Performance wise I've never been someone to really care if a saw will cut 1 second faster as long as it smooth, comfortable to use and solid which again the 661 seems to be.
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As long as it's spliced appropriately by either Old Mill himself or a certified splicer then it is suitable as PPE, any rigging whoopie/loopie of suitable strength would be suitable as well. I think I'd prefer a a Snake anchor myself though, but I mainly just tie a running bowline for my base anchor it's cheaper still!
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461 or 372, if budget is tight then a 440 is still a good saw. 441 is not a saw I'm a fan off.
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Other than the handle I think the 201 is a better built saw than a t540 which has a small edge over the 201 in power.
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Again mate it all depends on who you work with or for and the kind of Arb work they are geared towards, I'm sure someone working with you would become a well rounded Arborist. Some working Utility may be more of a bosher and not so suited to garden work or sensitive work on Veteran trees. Type of experience and those you work with is key.
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It all depends on those you work with or for, 5 years is a good chunk of time to proficient at this job, I think it could take less depending on your aptitude at this job and the quality of those you work with. I work with guys who have been doing this for 15 years and still can't sharpen a chainsaw properly! I've also worked at companies where the top climber was the student who has risen through the ranks and trained the one below etc, only problem is the teach the same bad habits and never look outside their own circle and seem negative towards different approaches.
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I wondered if they went out of the country?
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Indeed, my thoughts are like yours use the the tool best for the tas, I'm a hitch man myself never really thought of a lockjack as a finesse took compared to the smoothness and versatility of a hitchclimber set up, think I'd prefer the Rope Wrench for working the tree single line because of it being hitch based and smoother. With the Uni I really think it would make a great replacement for a toothed ascendor in a rope walker style ascent system it's very slick in that set-up and allows quick bail out or work positioning.
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I'm still searching for the holy grail, the device that's good at everything, it's a bit like oXo it's good for making gravy that's about all though. I like to mix it up, I'd by a Uni just to ascend with and maybe do the odd quick up and down jobs, for working the outer canopy still prefer the hitch climber.
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Now they have ruined a great product I'd have to agree, get a Rope Guide with Steel Link pulley.
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The rope runner looks very cool, I wonder if it will be as efficient in ascent mode as a Unicender, I want a Uni purely to replace my toothed croll in ascent, alas I only have limited funds these days for kit so all my purchases have to be something that will truly make my life easier and not just for the hell of it as much as I'd like to. What I have now works and enables me to do my work easily, one day I will be looking to something like the Uni for access.
