Back cut below gob cut?

[Richard Thompson]

I've sometimes wondered if there's any benefit in angling the back cut slightly downward (whilst keeping the whole back cut above the hinge). I've tried it on a few slightly (very slightly) back leaning trees with no problems.

 

Have I invented a new cut?....

 

cheers, Steve

 

I'll do this if I need to wedge a big trunk with two wedges, I have a toothed wedge and a slick one that slides in to the cut when the trunk leans over on the hinge. kinda like a safety/security backup when hammering the grippy toothed wedge in to the cut the slick one slides in deeper on its own under gravity keeping the cut open

Edited April 13, 2016 by Richard Thompson

[Dean O]

There are situations when its a good idea - reading when these are is the important bit.

 

In my opinion rich rules and Josharbs examples are spot on perfect examples of when to use.

 

I'm surprised he was taught to do this as a matter of course for his quals tho'

[openspaceman]

You see here, the top cut, although good thicknes in hinge has no complete fibers. The bottem cut has the most complete fibers

 

[ATTACH]202718[/ATTACH]

 

 

Something to think about

 

What having a malformed inadequate sink?

 

Generally the fell cut below the sink makes for a stiffer hinge as the fibres on the front face remain supported and will break in tension earlier.

[Maxnaggle]

too far below the face cut would be asking for a barbers chair if there was any weight/pull on the tree? that's my thinking, may be wrong though

[R Mac]

You see here, the top cut, although good thicknes in hinge has no complete fibers. The bottem cut has the most complete fibers

 

[ATTACH]202718[/ATTACH]

 

 

Something to think about

 

Shouldn't the buttresses have been removed 1st so that the gob is cut into continuous longitudinal fibres?

 

I was taught back cut always above the gob, not much more than an 1" but never below when felling, blocking down is a different matter.

[Pete Mctree]

back cut for normal felling should be level or above. Cutting higher than the bottom of the sink cut creates a ledge, or stump shot. this has the function of reducing the chance of the stem shooting backwards if the tree was to twist or collide with another one.

 

As for a sloping back-cut, they are a big no in my books. As you cut diagonally across the grain, there is every chance you can split the back of the tree when trying to wedge it over.

[casto]

I used to work for a guy who only ever put his back cut under the height of his gob. It always took more pulling over than it needed but he wouldn't be told. Then again this lad tried to make a poplar 'jump' clear of a wall and over a single track road....

 

Imo slightly above the gob is best (as said before, about an inch) but what do I know

[inthewoods]

I would never back cut below my gob (well, not on purpose anyway !) Have seen it done winching over dead rotten stems though.

 

I'll sometimes do a sloping back cut but only on back Leaners whether wedging or winching or of course plunge, bore, dogs tooth, call it what you will

[Georgesoton]

Great info guys, thank you. I will pass it on, and cross everything that he listens!

[Snedasawrus]

1-2 inch step depending on the size for most trees-helps minimise timber pull on the hinge and will move itself off the stump when gob closes. Backcut level with undercut when the tree needs winching back off the stump-no step in the way. Either level or just below undercut when felling heavy leaners with a wedge or a tractor winch- hinge holds stronger. Backcut below undercut when winching and you do not want the tree to fall behind the stump.