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How big is yours? And ... Does size matter ?


John Skinner
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Do you manually split your logs on a block, or do you work directly on the ground?

 

I'm looking at a dual setup for the new woodshed:

1) A mid sized wide block for splitting larger logs with a maul or 4-way grenade splitter and hammer.

2) A taller narrower block for re-splitting into kindling at a more workable height; got to protect the old back.

 

How do you cut yours, and what do you see as the advantages of cutting at that low/high height?

 

.

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19 minutes ago, difflock said:

You want a solid block, of such a height that the head of the splitting Ax or maul strikes the top surface of the block being split at near enough 90 degrees.

Force vectors or some such.

Id go a bit lower, the other factor is that lower gives more swing. For me somewhere around knee height, can't remember where I read that.

 

On the ground is too low and you lose energy as the log bounces more, set against the advantage that the log can't fall off so saves on picking up. I've gone mostly hydraulic now but I did set up one block with a tyre which saves a lot of bending and picking, and another block for busting down bits that don't initially fit in the tyre.

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I suspect it also depends on the length of your axe/maul (I use an x27).  I split on a block about 12" high.  I tried with it higher (put a second block on top) and it did not work so well for me.  I'd guess the 1 foot less swing has a bigger effect than the angles but technique can also adjust the angle of the axe as you swing.

 

I'd say try different block heights and see what you prefer, plenty of wood on the pile to make blocks out of :)

 

Rob

FYI I do put a second block on top when using the chainsaw as I found that height more comfortable.

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I'll be using a vertical 'pallet made' saw horse with the 18" chainsaw to initially cut things down to logs. Will need to change to a larger bar/chain to get better/full clearance.

 

As has been said ... I'll need to see what height splitting block works for me. It'll soon get sorted out, with a bit of trial and a lot of error. I'm told you want to have the axe/maul/hammer head striking the top of your log at the point the axe shaft is horizontal. In theory that should mean the centre of the axe/maul/hammer head is the impact point.

 

Just ordered a Titan Pro wedge to help on the kindling front. That'll be securely mounted on a high block, inside one of those rubber buckets, to catch all the bits as they split off. Never used one, but looks good/simple.

 

Who would have thought all this thought went into splitting wood for a fire. How did all those cavemen ever manage?  😉

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22 minutes ago, Paul in the woods said:

I keep a decent log, just under knee height. Importantly something level and I use an old tyre on top so I can either split a large log without bits flying everywhere or so I can place several smaller logs and split them one after another. 

we could do with an "I agree" button

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Some big  large gnarly seasoned hardwood rounds with knots in is best. Had a few dozen big elm  rounds left over from dutch elm disease dead felled trees was using for yrs made wonderful chopping blocks.

 

Also have a few tonnes of hardcore and some drainage pipe under the ground below the "lawn" area i split so doesn't get muddy etc

 

Don't bother with using grenades hammers wedges etc, if  the maul won't spilt it just put in to one side then "noodle"  it with chainsaw its alot quicker & less hassle imo.

 

 

For kindling I made on of theese:

 

Rustic, Primitive Three-Legged Chopping Block at 1stDibs

 

 

 

Edited by Stere
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4 hours ago, John Skinner said:

Who would have thought all this thought went into splitting wood for a fire. How did all those cavemen ever manage?  😉

Not quite cavemen, but there's an old saying:

 

"Indian builds small fire and stays warm, white man builds large fire and stays warm collecting firewood"

 

 

:bandit:

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