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Posted
1 hour ago, scbk said:

You can have a halfway house by towing a cs100 with a muck truck. It will pull it over surprisingly rough ground, won't churn up a lawn when turning, and is still narrow access

And it can carry the chip away

  • Like 1
Posted

I just purchased a Rover garden chipper which is 6HP. It has both flails for the thinner woody stuff and a blade on the flail plates and a side entry for branches up to around 2.5". I don't know if the mentioned unit has both but if it is classed as a "Shredder and chipper" I would think it has.

My unit will chip thinner branches reasonably well so in short, if it is for a bit of garden waste or for a semi pro gardener needing to dispose of waste then I am sure it will fit a job but forget sticking big lumps of wood in to it like it is a Timberwolf or similar.

I did see a vid of the Forest Master chipping and it seemed to work OK but build quality with heavy use may be an issue.

So, it may well have a use for heavy domestic gardening but not for 8 hrs a day use for tree work.

Posted
On 02/11/2023 at 18:48, Whoppa Choppa said:

I was wincing watching him feed that. Please use a pokey stick to ram frith through. He ain't gonna have his hands if he slips, something catches, his depth perception fails momentarily. Please 🙏🏻

When I had a Jo Beau M300 I made a wooden blunger that’ll  could push almost up to the blades but was too wide to get through the feed aperture. Worked well, make from offcuts.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've heard of such things before but never myself felt the need; I generally grab a branch off the pile of brush to be chipped and use that.  If potential blocking is a recurring issue I simply feed in less each go.

All of which seems utterly logical to me.  

What does help (with my M300) when chipping small conifer brush is to feed the branches the wrong way round if you can: the green slows the drum more than the stem so feeding the green with the drum at maximum revs helps with throw of the chip

  • Like 2

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