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Husqvarna 560xp problems


Snooze247
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1 hour ago, Rob D said:

to me it seems like the bar is not being clamped correctly.

Yes this is why I suggested going back to basics and mounting it again, I suspected the adjustment pin was not in the hole in the bar correctly and hence was being clamped onto the bar.

 

...and yes I have made this mistake when I first came across a saw with the adjusted in the clutch cover.

Edited by openspaceman
typo
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I am still at a loss as to what the issue was but hope it is sorted now.

 

I see the way you tightened the bar nuts. If you loosen the nuts to finger tight and grip the end of the bar then lift and drop it, you will see the tension in the chain loosen and tighten.

You MUST get rid of this effect when you adjust the chain otherwise as soon as you use the saw, the bar pushes up and the chain tension slackens off.

There are two main ways of getting rid of this, some chock the end of the bar up with a piece of wood when tightening the bar nuts. I rest my forearm on the chain brake guard, hold the chain on the upper part of the bar with my fingers, pull it strongly upwards and then tighten the bar nuts and check the chain spins round the bar freely. Both methods work and they will take up the play in the bar mount that can cause this issue.

Tightening the chain up pretty tight will lift the bar but in my experience, will over tighten the chain.

 

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36 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Have a close look at vibration specs before you buy anything. That titan one was 6.3m/s an ms261 is 3.5 m/s so you're going to have it much worse with the electric one.

 

Cheap electric chainsaws never have any anti-vibration kit built into them and they are completely solid chassis. Obviously the numbers on paper are subjective but give you at least a basic idea! 

Good point, thanks. I'd assumed that elec would be gentler. Having said that, my petrol saw is a cheapy spear and Jackson (Chinese wodowmaker) so anythjng should be an improvement.

4 minutes ago, AHPP said:

 

Wrong topic, ignore this post.

Edited by sandspider
wrong topic, ignore!
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58 minutes ago, spudulike said:

I am still at a loss as to what the issue was but hope it is sorted now.

 

I see the way you tightened the bar nuts. If you loosen the nuts to finger tight and grip the end of the bar then lift and drop it, you will see the tension in the chain loosen and tighten.

You MUST get rid of this effect when you adjust the chain otherwise as soon as you use the saw, the bar pushes up and the chain tension slackens off.

There are two main ways of getting rid of this, some chock the end of the bar up with a piece of wood when tightening the bar nuts. I rest my forearm on the chain brake guard, hold the chain on the upper part of the bar with my fingers, pull it strongly upwards and then tighten the bar nuts and check the chain spins round the bar freely. Both methods work and they will take up the play in the bar mount that can cause this issue.

Tightening the chain up pretty tight will lift the bar but in my experience, will over tighten the chain.

 

The method I use is to tighten nuts finger tight , hold saw by back handle  and drop bar tip on a log then adjust with the bar tip still taking all the weight and tighten . Always worked for old me . 😊

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Just now, Khriss said:

One point, if it aint been mentioned, chain a tad too long fr guide bar, one drive link tooo many. If yr adjuster bottoming out.  K

You can actually run an 8 pin ( slightly bigger dia than a 7 pin ) with standard drive link count so yep it would be like a limp prick with one extra driver 😊

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