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Posted
On 15/05/2020 at 20:44, Khriss said:

All that cack on saw is from blunt teeth ( an the wear pattern) chainsaws are nearly self cleaning with sharp teeth = no dust just shavings. K

My first ever boss in Dublin always believed and said that if the chain was razor sharp then you didn't need to clean the saw. 

 

He would even put a file over a new chain right out of the box which I never understood. 

 

The only cleaning that I ever did to a saw when I worked there was tipping petrol over the air filter every morning. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, treevolution said:

My first ever boss in Dublin always believed and said that if the chain was razor sharp then you didn't need to clean the saw. 

 

He would even put a file over a new chain right out of the box which I never understood. 

 

The only cleaning that I ever did to a saw when I worked there was tipping petrol over the air filter every morning. 

Saw one complete twat who could never sharpen a saw, take air cover off a Stihl 046, you could not EVEN see the air filter !  So caked in dust it was  ?  it is ALWAYS neglect that leads to failure.  K

Posted
44 minutes ago, Khriss said:

 ?  it is ALWAYS neglect that leads to failure.  K

Is that what happened Khriss ?  It helps to talk about it mate ...

  • Haha 2
Posted
3 hours ago, Stubby said:

Is that what happened Khriss ?  It helps to talk about it mate ...

I.........   I cant find the cork screw.......  ?   K

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Stubby said:

Is that what happened Khriss ?  It helps to talk about it mate ...

Sanity has returned,  had a good socially distanced swim , a small glass of Merlot to rid the taste of chlorine, all is well ? K

Edited by Khriss
( nice to not have the screaming little shits in the pool getting in the way of my lengths also )
  • Like 1
Posted

Rob have you had customers calling in with similar failures on other brand bars you sell like gb cannon etc? Personally I like the sugi bars and haven't had an issue with them, but only runs 20" and a tiony sugi carving bar.

Posted
On 21/08/2020 at 15:59, billpierce said:

Rob have you had customers calling in with similar failures on other brand bars you sell like gb cannon etc? Personally I like the sugi bars and haven't had an issue with them, but only runs 20" and a tiony sugi carving bar.

Had failures across the board on all brands of bars - pretty much proportionate to what we sell.. here's most recent one - sprocket nose failure - this may not have been anything to do with the drive rim [more likely over greased then run up too quickly] but rim had never been changed and even though hardly used the chain tie straps are already showing damage.

 

image.png.31b23c9a3d6374b384c67f543cdb51a6.png

 

image.png.61a061c425a3991d958cacba7c356375.png

 

 

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Rob D said:

Had failures across the board on all brands of bars - pretty much proportionate to what we sell.. here's most recent one - sprocket nose failure - this may not have been anything to do with the drive rim [more likely over greased then run up too quickly] but rim had never been changed and even though hardly used the chain tie straps are already showing damage.

 

image.png.31b23c9a3d6374b384c67f543cdb51a6.png

 

image.png.61a061c425a3991d958cacba7c356375.png

 

 

 

 

I'm curious about over greasing and running up too quickly. I guess it makes sense to gently spin the chain up after greasing so not to put too much stress on it, but how much is too much grease? I normally give it a pump, spin the sprocket half a turn or so and give it another pump to make sure fresh grease gets into all the rollers, then pull the chain around by hand a bit to just make 100% its all distributed well. I clean the grease hole out well beforehand too.

Posted
2 hours ago, Toad said:

I'm curious about over greasing and running up too quickly. I guess it makes sense to gently spin the chain up after greasing so not to put too much stress on it, but how much is too much grease? I normally give it a pump, spin the sprocket half a turn or so and give it another pump to make sure fresh grease gets into all the rollers, then pull the chain around by hand a bit to just make 100% its all distributed well. I clean the grease hole out well beforehand too.

I stopped greasing sprocket noses years ago . I found that the grease picks up crud and grit ( in domestic situations , not so much in forestry ) and acts like a grinding paste and eventually the nose explodes  .

Posted
On 28/08/2020 at 15:08, Toad said:

I'm curious about over greasing and running up too quickly. I guess it makes sense to gently spin the chain up after greasing so not to put too much stress on it, but how much is too much grease? I normally give it a pump, spin the sprocket half a turn or so and give it another pump to make sure fresh grease gets into all the rollers, then pull the chain around by hand a bit to just make 100% its all distributed well. I clean the grease hole out well beforehand too.

When you run the saw after greasing do so very very gently and allow any excess grease to get pushed out. I'm pretty sure [but by no means 100%] Stihl went to sealed nose bearings due to issues with people incorrectly greasing the nose.

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