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Rob D

New bar and old chains... they don't go together!

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On 28/08/2020 at 15:08, Toad said:

I'm curious about over greasing and running up too quickly. I guess it makes sense to gently spin the chain up after greasing so not to put too much stress on it, but how much is too much grease? I normally give it a pump, spin the sprocket half a turn or so and give it another pump to make sure fresh grease gets into all the rollers, then pull the chain around by hand a bit to just make 100% its all distributed well. I clean the grease hole out well beforehand too.

When you run the saw after greasing do so very very gently and allow any excess grease to get pushed out. I'm pretty sure [but by no means 100%] Stihl went to sealed nose bearings due to issues with people incorrectly greasing the nose.

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On 28/08/2020 at 18:08, Stubby said:

I stopped greasing sprocket noses years ago . I found that the grease picks up crud and grit ( in domestic situations , not so much in forestry ) and acts like a grinding paste and eventually the nose explodes  .

Can do I suppose but grit and crud shouldn't really ever be near the bar and chain in the first place [I know you have quantified that ref domestic situations]. Really the whole issue of greasing the nose is a piece of string question - depends on how you do it, when you do it, what sort of cutting you are doing, how well you maintain your gear [a clean bar allows bar oil to seep to the nose bearings] and all manner of other variables. A bit like the 'how often should I sharpen the chain' the answer being 'when it is dull'! It's the hardest thing I find in phone conversations - people want quick all encompassing answers - when they do not exist.

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7 hours ago, Rob D said:

When you run the saw after greasing do so very very gently and allow any excess grease to get pushed out. I'm pretty sure [but by no means 100%] Stihl went to sealed nose bearings due to issues with people incorrectly greasing the nose.

Thanks.

 

I see a lot of arguments for not greasing, and I can understand them, but I'm a weirdo who quite likes maintenance, I clean saws off with an airline each time I use them, regularly take the bars off and use the airline to blow all of the crap out from between the rails and prefer to grease bearings afterwards.

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On 30/08/2020 at 22:05, Toad said:

Thanks.

 

I see a lot of arguments for not greasing, and I can understand them, but I'm a weirdo who quite likes maintenance, I clean saws off with an airline each time I use them, regularly take the bars off and use the airline to blow all of the crap out from between the rails and prefer to grease bearings afterwards.

 

Greasing is fine - but again it's the over greasing causes a lot of premature sprocket failures - and it's fine to over grease as long as you allow the bar to work the extra grease out slowly over the first couple of minutes of run time.

 

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Rob how knackered are the rims that have been causing problems? Are they all worn past the witness marks? Or are you suggesting changing them sooner?

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On 13/10/2020 at 18:05, john k said:

Rob how knackered are the rims that have been causing problems? Are they all worn past the witness marks? Or are you suggesting changing them sooner?

 

The rim does not have to be past the witness marks from what I am seeing [to cause damage]

 

  1. If you are running the same chains on the same bar and rim is almost to witness marks - all good and keep going no need to replace it [even if through the witness marks don't replace it]
  2. If you buy a new bar and chains and rim is halfway to witness marks and looks worn - change it for a new one when moving over to the new bar and chains

Would be my advice.

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