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Showing results for tags 'chainsaw'.
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- NEW
Selling a brand new Stihl MSA 220C Chainsaw. This sale doesn't include a bar/chain- only the body. Pick up can be arranged in Hertfordshire/Bedfordshire/Buckinghamshire.£200
- GB
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Hey! Can you guys help me source the right ventilation for my fuel tank on my chainsaw? Bought a Stihl Ms200/ 020 production year : 1999. When i did replace my impulse hose/ Fuel line from tank to the Carb, i noticed that the fuel tank ventilation was kind of missing. I got the red ventilation valve inside the tank but all that was left of the other end of the was a small piece of white filter kind of. Adding pictures of what it looks like so it easier to understand. Do someone know whats the right ventilation stuff that belongs there? Im finding just a simple hose with a white small filter on the end on the internet. But i dont seem to understand how thats gonna not leak and since the broken filter piece was laying in there i doubt that, a hose should be there? What do you guys think? Thanks for all the helpful answers! Appriciate it
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It’s gonna get controversial round these parts! 😳😳😳 Well hello everyone, long time no post!! Ok, so I just bought myself another little chainsaw, a brand new 2014 model German made Makita EA3500. 😃 The thing’s a little Bobby dazzler and almost feels like a keychain ornament compared to my bigger saws. I was honestly expecting it to have the same form factor as my DCS4301s but this thing is dinky, I love it! 😻 Its never going to see a big log as I’ve got other guys in the collection for that stuff, this is going to be a branch remover, and trimming saw, where the heavier stuff is just too much to muscle about. Anyway, enough digressions….. Being the wrong side of 50 now, I’ve become a bit of a perfectionist, and probably overthink a lot of stuff. In particular how to break in new engines, be they a car, motorcycle, or garden machinery….. Now I can’t even remember what I’d did with my other saws, it’s so long since I bought a new one, and I think I’m normally just too excited and eager to go and use the thing to make a ‘run in plan’, but this time I want to get it right. I’m sure I’ll get varying opinions and will have to weigh up the arguments for and against various ‘techniques’, but I’d really like to know what you guys (the professionals) do and advise I do. I’m almost tempted never to add fluids and just leave it on the desk as an ornament it’s so cute and pretty 🥰🙂😄…but the wife will threaten to yeet it in the bin if I push my luck lol 😂 Let it rip guys…in 3….2…..1 😁😁😁
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Howdy Agimos! Just a quick one to rack your brains and harvest your opinions please? I am contemplating adding a small, cheapish saw to my collection, specifically for pruning task, light tree work on my property and to bridge the gap between my ratchet loppers and my smallest other saw, a Makita / Dolmar DCS4301 at 43cc. Initially I fancied an Echo 2511WES for its diminutive size and low weight. Two things put me off slightly, the £400 cost, and reports on this forum of issues with the smoothness of the chain in wood. Setting my sights a little lower, and slashing the budget required in half left me looking at three ‘big name’ entry level beginner saws all under £200, as listed below: Stihl MS162 @ £155.00 Husqvarna 120 II @ £170 Echo CS-310 ES @ £199 and the ‘off brand’ wildcard, in the image of my initial choice, a smaller saw aimed it appears at CS-2511 WES buyers; Mitox 270 CSX @ £199 also. Your thoughts and experience with these saws would be greatly appreciated ladies and gentlemen.
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NICOLA - Easy, Instant access Tip site logs and chip accepted. Any day
Nicnac posted a tip site profile in Tip Sites That Pay
ACCEPT BOTH CHIP AND LOGS We are not wood snobs any species accepted Easy access, Large double drive to tip onto. I work from home so car etc can be moved for access Happy to take chip, big or small logs Hard wood, soft wood etc 😂🤣😂thanks in advance Nicola 😁 -
Hi all, im planning on taking my CS30/31 in the next 2 months and getting equipment together for it. I plan on moving through more arb qualifications to add more depth to my gardening work and eventually get into forestry. What would be a good chainsaw to get to do these qualifications and do the first work I get after passing these? Any help would be amazing! Edit - Don’t really have a budget but I would like to keep costs under £850. The lower the better but good equipment isn’t cheap so I’m prepared to go to my max budget if necessary. As work becomes more regular I would upgrade then if needed.
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I was looking for something about chainsaw (not only Stihl), then I found one of their How-to series on one of their blogposts. It said "Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory. " Is the horsepower or engine displacement matched with bar length, or is the horsepower matched with engine displacement, or others?
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Hello I was wondering if anyone could help I have a old ms200t I brought a while ago it starts but cuts out and bogs I was just wondering if anyone new what to look for or if there was anywhere close to hitchin I could send it ? Thanks in advance -
Currently studying Arboriculture and Urban Forestry in Inverness and very keen to get my CS30/31. Wondered if anyone is providing training and assesments with assesment location provided by assesor, despite lockdown or very soon after lockdown is lifted? There's quite a few students seeking their basic chainsaw tickets so could put together a group if needed. Also if anyone needs a ground worker in the area, I'm physically fit and willing to learn!
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Over the past 2 years I have bought an Echo CS362tes top handle saw, CS2511tes and a CS621SX ground saw, to replace there Husky equivalents and been really impressed with there design and performance. Dick Leigh Chainsaws in Barrow has kindly lent us an Echo CS-7310SX to demo for when the time comes to replace a 70cc saw. We have held on to the saw for about 3 months, enough time to put several tanks of fuel through it, bed in the piston and ring, and wear out 1 chain. I think this is a good saw that could have a long lifespan. If you are going to visit Dick Leighs for a 70cc saw this is well worth considering and should definitely be on your short list. If the choice is between maximum performance or longevity the Echo is likely to win on build and reliability, and with a little tuning it could be a game changer for Echo. View full review
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Hey guys, I’m student and currently writing my master thesis about the future development of chainsaws and trends in forestry. And I need you as regular users of chainsaws to help me with it! Since my personal knowledge about this topic is limited, I am conducting a survey to identify what’s important for you working with a chainsaw and how you see the future. Of course the survey is anonymous. Link to the survey: https://www.umfrageonline.com/s/f4abc53 I’m very happy about any participant! Thanks a lot for your help! -
Hi All, I've been lurking here for a long time, reading interesting discussions. However, I've got a question I'd be interested in people's views on. I've got a couple of 346XP (newer version) chainsaws, one bought in 2007 and the other in 2009. Having recently bought a 536LiXP, I decided to sell the older 346XP to a friend who was just starting in forestry. But, 6 weeks later it stopped dead while he was cleaning up a tree stump, and the engine wouldn't turn over. My assumption was not enough mixing oil, but we took it apart last night and found the piston had broken (see attached images), with no sign of overheating damage to piston or cylinder. So... I'm refunding him his money, as I sold it thinking it was working but promised that if it died in the near future I'd pay him back. And now I'm not sure what to do from the following options: 1. Have a go at repairing it myself. Problem here is I don't really need it (which is why I'd sold it) - I have a working 346XP, a larger petrol saw too and am trying to use the electric one as much as possible. 2. Keep it for spares for my other 346XP. But then I may not use any of the parts for years... 3. Sell it as it is for someone to repair or use for parts. It was in working order in all other respects. 4. Sell parts from it on ebay. (more money that option 3, but a lot more work) Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Thanks, Mike
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Hi everyone and firstly a hello to you all; just joined arbtalk having read a few threads from “the outside” and I am looking forward to being part of the community. I am hoping someone here might be able to help me- I want to repair my dad’s old Husqvarna 50 (barrel and piston are damaged due to running without enough / with no 2-stroke mixed...). he’s owned it from new but was going to throw away. Problem is I can’t tell if it’s a “special” (45mm I believe) or a regular 44mm 50. If anyone can give me a steer I’d be very grateful and it can help me get the correct new cylinder etc. (also- I notice that most aftermarket cyclinders have a decompression valve but the original does not, can’t see a problem with that unless anyone knows better?) thanks, merlin Ps was taken apart by a local dealer to assess the damage
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Hi all, I am in need of a smaller saw for Coppicing smaller hazel trashing scrub etc... Currently I have a 365 huzqvarna which is great for larger coppice but is a bit of a lump when just trashing small stuff. I am open to ideas of all brands so what would you use/ recommend?
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Hi All, Would really appreciate any help. I require a chainsaw for garden maintenance, firewood cutting and pallet cutting. I have been using a old solo 645 (now dead) which i purchased second hand this served me well, but use to struggle with bigger timber. After reading this forum and seen the cult following of the 346, i have took the plunge and purchased a second hand 346xp from ebay. The seller has advised all parts are genuine husqvarna. It has had a new 15" bar, stihl 3/8 1.5 chain, spark plug, brake band, air filter and pull cord installed. I picked this saw over a new ms181, as everyone had a pretty negative opinion on it. Now i had a few questions: 1. Shall I get the saw ported? 2. Which bar length and (brand & model) is optimum for this saw, cutting all sorts dirty timber and all? 3. Which chain? I also had the opportunity to purchase a secondhand 550xp 3 years old, but decided against it for 346. This forum has been a great help and a amazing fountain of knowledge. Many thanks.
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We have a number of openings in our growing team. A chainsaw operative with CS30/31. (002003 and 00200) Also, an apprentice working towards these. Full clean driving licence preferred, but not essential Based in Thrapston but will be required to travel across the East Midlands 40 hours a week. Candidates must be reliable, diligent and work to very high standard. They will undertake a wide range of tree surgery to the highest standards. Send a CV and covering letter to: [email protected]
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We have an urgent requirement for a climber with all the relevant certs for 2 days work in Doncaster this Thursday (22nd) and Friday (23rd). The job is assisting with the reduction of a conifer hedge. Must come with all own climbing equipment and saw. Great rates paid, please contact for further details [email protected]
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Having successfully secured several contracts, predominately in the Midlands area, we are seeking suitably qualified and experienced individuals to enhance our workforce. Applicants will be required to work at various locations throughout the country including some Weekends. Chainsaw operatives and Climbers must hold NPTC certificates. PTS (Personal Track Safety) and full Driving Licence are desirable as works are routinely within the Rail environment. Lineside Structure Maintenance Limited are based in Nottingham and have been operating for over 20 years. We are able to offer competitive rates of pay and comprehensive Training and Development. www.lineside.co.uk Please send us your CV to [email protected] -
stolen Cheshire - Stolen kit list with serial numbers
monkeybusiness posted a topic in Stolen Equipment
Hi - a mate suffered a serious break in in South Cheshire last Tuesday night (27th March) and had the following power tools stolen - 1. STIHL MS880 48” BAR (spare 36” bar also taken) S/N 181034060 2. STIHL 084 25” BAR 3. HUSQVARNA 390XP 36” BAR 4. HUSQVARNA 390XP 28” BAR S/N 201410000080 5. HUSQVARNA 372XPG 20” BAR 6. STIHL MS441 20” BAR S/N 171534211 7. HUSQVARNA 560XPG 18” BAR S/N 2012130038 8. HUSQVARNA 560XP 18” BAR 9. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20114500234 10. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20120100240 11. HUSQVARNA 346XP 15” BAR 12. HUSQVARNA 550XP 13” BAR S/N 20161300190 13. STIHL 026 15” BAR 14. STIHL 026 15” BAR (plastic “026 tag” missing from the top) 15. STIHL MS200T 14” BAR S/N 170098247 16. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 17. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 18. STIHL 020T 14” BAR 19. HUSQVARNA T540XP 12” BAR 20. STIHL MS211 16” BAR 21. STIHL 020AV 16” BAR HEDGECUTTERS AND POLESAWS 22. STIHL HS45 24” BAR 23. STIHL HS81R 30” BAR S/N 175940322 24. STIHL HS81T 30” BAR S/N 176639882 25. STIHL KM131 KOMBI UNIT WITH ANGLED HEDGECUTTER AND STRIMMER ATTACHMENT 26. STIHL HT101 POLESAW S/N 297634206 27. STIHL HT75 POLESAW S/N 67952532 (CHAINSAW HEAD HAD JUBILEE CLIP REPAIR) BLOWERS 28. STIHL BR600 MAGNUM S/N 289778131 29. STIHL BR86 S/N 283523220 30. HUSQVARNA 570BTS (BRAND NEW) They also took a transit tipper which was later found burnt out near Farndon. I would imagine the thieves are working out of the Wrexham/Whitchurch England/Wales border area (but that is largely speculation on my part at present). If anyone has any possible information relating to any of this kit, or more directly to the thieves themselves please contact me in strictest confidence on 07970188050. This type of crime (and those who support it by buying the stolen equipment) destroys people’s livelihoods - those machines belong to a guy who is no different to any of us on here, and have been paid for through years of hard graft. It wasn’t undertaken by amateurs who got lucky - this was a professional crew and we are all at risk from people like them... Please please please let me know if you hear anything! -
Hi to all.. my chainsaw starts and runs fine, but only with the exhaust and air filter removed. When I fit the exhaust, it won't run or start. The exhaust has been cleaned and is not blocked. Can anyone give me some advice. Thanks
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We are looking for individuals or gangs, for immediate ongoing work. Must have's: - Minimum of CS30,31,38,39, 40 and UA2.3 - Be available for ongoing work - Drive or be a part of a pair that drives - Experience on Deveg - Own kit - Be based/willing to travel to Wessex To show your interest please send your contact details and a covering letter/email to - [email protected]
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Hi, I have a chainsaw dilemma. I recently had a 90 year old spruce felled. Most of the branches have been cut into lengths no longer than 12 inches diameter. However the trunk, which is 20-30 feet long varies in diameter from 2ft 6" to 5ft 6" . As I am a beginner ( although verbally coached by the tree-feller at the time), I will not be able to buy a chainsaw capable of ringing the trunk, so I anticipate slowly cutting chips/slices off it which I can chop/saw to fit in my wood-burner. However, I suspect I will need a hefty saw (? around 50cc) to complete that task, despite requiring a much lesser powered saw to cut up the branches. I am unlikely to use the chainsaw after this large task. In the interests of safety, I will go with a Husqvarna but I would welcome advice on which is the cheapest of their range which will be able to carry out the full task. I am thinking, perhaps the 440, 445, or 450? My dilemma clearly is that I do not want to overspend on something which has a time limited value to me, but neither do I wish to waste money buying something that is not up to the task. I should add that tree is on a very small island so normal logistics do not apply! Advice please!
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Anybody have any experience shipping their tools and climbing gear from Australia to UK. I’m looking to ship a couple of small saws and roughly 100kg of climbing gear.
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Hello, Over the past week all of my employees have broken at least one brake band. Having never broke a band myself I am wondering if there are any pro tips on what to look out for that might be causing excessive wear? They have all broke at the point where the band comes round and begins to wrap round the smaller circle nearer the brake handle. The saws are only 1 month old, all the same make, same model, from the same supplier. They have been going under tough conditions brashing and snedding gnarly sitka spruce though I'd hope to get more than a month out of a band. Given that I did not have as many brake bands in store as spare this will slow the job somewhat, so any advice on the issue would be much appreciated! all the best, Liam Broc
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Hello, just wondering if any of you no if this part is needed for anything?
