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Showing results for tags 'chainsaw'.
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It’s gonna get controversial round these parts! 😳😳😳 Well hello everyone, long time no post!! Ok, so I just bought myself another little chainsaw, a brand new 2014 model German made Makita EA3500. 😃 The thing’s a little Bobby dazzler and almost feels like a keychain ornament compared to my bigger saws. I was honestly expecting it to have the same form factor as my DCS4301s but this thing is dinky, I love it! 😻 Its never going to see a big log as I’ve got other guys in the collection for that stuff, this is going to be a branch remover, and trimming saw, where the heavier stuff is just too much to muscle about. Anyway, enough digressions….. Being the wrong side of 50 now, I’ve become a bit of a perfectionist, and probably overthink a lot of stuff. In particular how to break in new engines, be they a car, motorcycle, or garden machinery….. Now I can’t even remember what I’d did with my other saws, it’s so long since I bought a new one, and I think I’m normally just too excited and eager to go and use the thing to make a ‘run in plan’, but this time I want to get it right. I’m sure I’ll get varying opinions and will have to weigh up the arguments for and against various ‘techniques’, but I’d really like to know what you guys (the professionals) do and advise I do. I’m almost tempted never to add fluids and just leave it on the desk as an ornament it’s so cute and pretty 🥰🙂😄…but the wife will threaten to yeet it in the bin if I push my luck lol 😂 Let it rip guys…in 3….2…..1 😁😁😁
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Howdy Agimos! Just a quick one to rack your brains and harvest your opinions please? I am contemplating adding a small, cheapish saw to my collection, specifically for pruning task, light tree work on my property and to bridge the gap between my ratchet loppers and my smallest other saw, a Makita / Dolmar DCS4301 at 43cc. Initially I fancied an Echo 2511WES for its diminutive size and low weight. Two things put me off slightly, the £400 cost, and reports on this forum of issues with the smoothness of the chain in wood. Setting my sights a little lower, and slashing the budget required in half left me looking at three ‘big name’ entry level beginner saws all under £200, as listed below: Stihl MS162 @ £155.00 Husqvarna 120 II @ £170 Echo CS-310 ES @ £199 and the ‘off brand’ wildcard, in the image of my initial choice, a smaller saw aimed it appears at CS-2511 WES buyers; Mitox 270 CSX @ £199 also. Your thoughts and experience with these saws would be greatly appreciated ladies and gentlemen.
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NICOLA - Easy, Instant access Tip site logs and chip accepted. Any day
Nicnac posted a tip site profile in Tip Sites That Pay
ACCEPT BOTH CHIP AND LOGS We are not wood snobs any species accepted Easy access, Large double drive to tip onto. I work from home so car etc can be moved for access Happy to take chip, big or small logs Hard wood, soft wood etc 😂🤣😂thanks in advance Nicola 😁 -
The left valve is from the carb I'm working on and is leaking. The valve on the right works perfectly but has slightly bigger drillings but dimension wise it's the same width but slightly shorter. Would it function practically the same as the original? I'm having trouble tracking down a replacement for the original, it's from a AT 1A carb Left valve drilling doesn't go all the way through whereas the right one does, I wouldnt think that would cause any problems but any assistance will be appreciated 👍
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
Hi, this ad is my first venture into Arbtalk. I usually enjoy the to and fro of the comments! The mill has just been listed on eBay with a BUY NOW of £1300 but I am open to reasonable offers. Viewing for serious buyers is encouraged. Thanks for reading the ad. Steve This used sawmill is my LOGOSOL M8, 5 metres long. Included are a log ramp, saw carriage,winder mechanism, clamps and other useful accessories made by me. The mill is secured to a pressed galvanised steel base of my design which gives it extra rigidity and stability. It can also be used to tow the mill on one’s own property (not for road use). Logosol recommends fixing the mill to wooden sleepers for extra stability but the steel frame is much nicer and more effective. I have used this mill to make timber for my own projects, including fine furniture, gates, fencing, posts, doors, garden boxes, chicken shed, woodshed, retaining wall, and several more. It has had moderate private use and is in full working order with no corrosion. There are a couple of dings on the support poles and a few very small nicks on the slide rail, all filed and smooth. It is assembled and ready to go to work. I have used a Stihl MS660 saw with a 25” bar and a variety of ripping chains very successfully. This unit does not come with the saw because I will use that with my NEW LOGOSOL F2+ and a 28” bar. I have chosen the F2+ because I have a number of much larger trees which the F2+ is designed for. I stuck with LOGOSOL because of the exceptional service and product design and reliability. It has been a very useful tool and saved a large amount of money buying store lumber. I saw primarily oak, ash, larch and Scots pine. The M8 eats them all. You can saw EXACTLY the dimension you want rather than accepting from standard dimensions in the store. You can saw EXACTLY how you want the timber to come out. For example I generally quarter saw my oak which is ideal for furniture. The surface finish on the wood is exceptional and better than a bandsaw mill generally. A bandsaw mill is quicker but when the blade starts to wear it flutters and wanders and you need to plane it more than a chainsaw which is always perfectly flat. This means the ¼” kerf of the logosol is only a little more than the ⅛” kerf of a band saw. The M8 can handle up to 20” diameter logs easily, but, you can go much larger with ingenuity although there is more handling. A 4 metre log takes from about 90 seconds to 2 minutes to saw through and through. This depends on species, water content, degree of wear on the chain and chain type, mainly. My M8 uses a homemade gadget at the end of the guard bar to provide ‘bar nose steering’ which is very useful and is included. Overall this is a very nice mill with no surprises which will give a lot of enjoyment. Please message me with any questions, Thankyou. LINKS Here is a link to a LOGOSOL video on the M8. Spares and accessories are also available for it if needed from Logosol or their UK distributor Davies Implements.https://youtu.be/F2lmY8GITuQ?si=s32-OKqMNFJukRQS Here is a link to the comprehensive M8 manual. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U5u8uWkupy06NJmQtPnaQXnuw6vNn0TA/view?usp=sharing MORE INFORMATION Below are some snippets from other websites which I did not write, but they reflect my great experience with this mill. Swedish, portable, robust, exceptional accuracy The M8 works with any brand of chainsaw. This has to have two screws to secure the bar and chain. It is recommended to use a powerful chainsaw, as Stihl MS660. This sawing work with currents designed to cut deep (current ripping), with thinner, and each cut only lost 6 mm thick on wood. simple to use - and easy to maintain. Any dimension, in ¼ inch, 6mm increments. No wavy cuts as with bandsaws when blades start to dull. Saws all types of wood accurately The portable sawmill Logosol M8 is made of extremely sturdy anodized aluminum – Toothed ramps allow easy placement of the log on the cutting table. After, the pulley fitted the cutting table allow to raise the log to a height that allows a good working posture. The compact design makes it even more when it is necessary to turn the log on the table, to initiate new cut boards are ready to waist height, making it easier to remove them. portable sawmill or fixed With the portable sawmill Logosol M8 and Stihl MS660 chainsaw can cut five meters per minute from a beam with 15 cm thick. • Durable surface, that repels dust. never rusts. • cutting table equipped with pulleys to lift the logs to a working height confostável. Easily adjust so that the pitch (the heart of the log is parallel, easily takes out flare. Can cust slices at angles too. Length 5,5 m (18 feet) Bed toro 50 cm (20″ ergonomic construction The portable sawmill M8 has been designed with the user in mind. Everything is at the right height for long hours without damaging the spine. It is easy to use - no need to push the blade through the wood. he torus is placed on two supports of the cutting table, which can be moved up and down. This unique fine-cut current produces a surprisingly smooth surface. This thin stream removes only 6 mm (¼”) the toro. Sharp with ease, each chain may even saw 7 cubic meters of sawn timber (boards). Safety ¼” or ⅛” increments instruction manual 34 Full pages with assembly instructions,Ask for price
KENDAL, CUMBRIA - GB
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T540xp has been recently rebuilt, starts good, does idle but idles better on its side (sometimes dies when straight up) New carb. When throttle is applied it will not spin the chain and bogs down until it dies. Seems to dump fuel. Any help will be appreciated in locating the source of this problem
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I’m looking for advice buying a bigger saw. It will spend more than half its hours milling mostly 16 to 24 inch oak and ash at least for the next few years and a few days logging up 20-30 inch ash. Thinking of a 661 or 500i?
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Hi All, I hope it’s ok to post this here. If anyones interested in port work give me a shout. I’m based in Ayr, Scotland but happy to ship saws back and forth. At the moment I’m currently taking bookings for July. If you’re interested in some of the work I’ve done check out https://youtube.com/user/markcrockart or @customsaws on Instagram Any questions just ask. PM me for prices. I can also supply some new saws that are hard to get. I have some more Echo CS2511s coming soon. These are awesome saws ported. Cheers Mark
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I've filled up a petrol canister with 5L of petrol and forgot that it was previously used for diesel. There was basically just a film of diesel on the inside and now it's mixed into the petrol, which is what I'm assuming is causing my saw to smoke like crazy?? Will this cause any damage since it's been extremely diluted?
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Hi, just looking for a second opinion on this piston. Found that this pistons machining marks appear to have been worn away and there's a large black mark which I'm guessing is the saw running too lean but any advice will be helpful.
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We are looking to grow🌳our Arb department to work on various rail projects. 🧗🏽♂️ Climber x 4 📍 Shrewsbury 🦺 Chainsaw Op/Groundworker x 6 📍 Shrewsbury 🦺 Chainsaw Op/Groundworker x 1 📍 Llandudno 📅 Mon to Fri, days, some weekends #PTS essential and relevant arb qualifications. Excellent rates of pay For more information or to discuss, please contact Becky Clift ⤵ 📧 [email protected] 📱 07436 348 293RSSI-Arboriculture-Brochure.pdf -
What saws are everyone using? I'm looking to buy my first few saws to start up on my own and have always had stihl. I'm thinking initially MS201, and MS461 before getting a 661 in the future. Anyone have any preferences on some of the husky saws? I've been climbing for years but somehow never used husky anywhere. Any advice appreciated!
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Currently studying Arboriculture and Urban Forestry in Inverness and very keen to get my CS30/31. Wondered if anyone is providing training and assesments with assesment location provided by assesor, despite lockdown or very soon after lockdown is lifted? There's quite a few students seeking their basic chainsaw tickets so could put together a group if needed. Also if anyone needs a ground worker in the area, I'm physically fit and willing to learn!
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Over the past 2 years I have bought an Echo CS362tes top handle saw, CS2511tes and a CS621SX ground saw, to replace there Husky equivalents and been really impressed with there design and performance. Dick Leigh Chainsaws in Barrow has kindly lent us an Echo CS-7310SX to demo for when the time comes to replace a 70cc saw. We have held on to the saw for about 3 months, enough time to put several tanks of fuel through it, bed in the piston and ring, and wear out 1 chain. I think this is a good saw that could have a long lifespan. If you are going to visit Dick Leighs for a 70cc saw this is well worth considering and should definitely be on your short list. If the choice is between maximum performance or longevity the Echo is likely to win on build and reliability, and with a little tuning it could be a game changer for Echo. View full review
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We are looking for a trainee arborist to join our growing team at Sheasby Tree Services. What we offer; Comprehensive in house training External training courses and certificates from official governing bodies A diverse workload in beautiful locations A friendly and positive team PPE & company uniform # days annual leave, plus bank holidays A growing, forward thinking company with a heavy employee satisfaction focus What we want; Motivated and dedicated individuals who strive to provide the highest standard of work Professional attitude and ability to communicate clearly with colleagues and clients alike Ideally, you will hold a full UK driving license but this is not essential Eagerness to learn and develop a rewarding arboriculture career The ideal candidate will have a very strong work ethic, be a flexible and reliable team player with the ability to use their own initiative. They must have a serious approach to health and safety and ensure this is at the forefront of every task; prior knowledge of health and safety regulations, risk assessments and emergency first aid is desired, however this is not essential as we can provide full training. They will take pride and responsibility in maintaining a clean and tidy work environment, both on site and at the depot and they will strive to maintain all equipment to the highest standard. Salary dependant on skills and experience. To apply for this role, please send your CV, along with a cover letter, to [email protected]. Application Deadline: 18th June 2021
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I am currently carrying out research regarding chainsaw safety. We are targeting users with less experience of a chainsaw to get their thoughts behind how safe they feel when using a chainsaw and if it was possible would they pay for a more safe product. I would greatly appreciate if you could fill in the survey from the following link, it will only take 20 seconds, cheers; QUB Chainsaw Research Survey WWW.SURVEYMONKEY.CO.UK Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with... I am aware that the best way to improve safety when operating a chainsaw is through good training and the correct use of PPE. However these elements may not always be present as is evident though the injury stats. If you are a more experienced user, please feel free to fill out the survey as you would have when you first started out. Also, feel free to throw about some thoughts in the comments, thanks.
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Hello I was wondering if anyone could help I have a old ms200t I brought a while ago it starts but cuts out and bogs I was just wondering if anyone new what to look for or if there was anywhere close to hitchin I could send it ? Thanks in advance -
I'm currently carrying out a bit of research into the safety of chainsaws for my MEng Electrical and Electronic Engineering Degree. Chainsaws cause a lot of injuries every year and can seem a bit dangerous to the beginner. I am aware that there are safety mechanisms in place such as the chain brake, operated by hand or via inertia, however people still get injured. It would appear that naturally applying the chain brake by your left wrist in a dangerous situation comes with training and/or experience. My understanding of the inertial brake is that it requires an reactive force by the user, which again comes more naturally with training and/or experience. Would an electronic device that can sense abnormal movements (sudden changes in angle or position) and apply the brake quicker than the novice user make the chainsaw a more welcoming tool for the beginner? I understand that the chainsaw may still hit the user, however injury would be reduced by a multitude as the chain will have stopped. I am open to any comments or further advice.
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I was looking for something about chainsaw (not only Stihl), then I found one of their How-to series on one of their blogposts. It said "Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory. " Is the horsepower or engine displacement matched with bar length, or is the horsepower matched with engine displacement, or others?
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Immediate start available We currently have a position available to be part of a small vegetation team undertaking brushcutting, hedge cutting, path clearance and some chainsaw/tree works for local authority contract. Work may also include general maintenance works such as installation of posts, minor fencing repairs, path maintenance, ditching works and repairs to street furniture. Mostly for Highways but also on the rights of way network. MUST have: a full UK driving licence (no more than 3 points) Experience with brushcutters and hedgecutters Must be physically fit. IDEALLY you will have: Chainsaw ticket The works will take place across Surrey and will be based from our yard near Haslemere (GU27) 7am - 3.30pm 26k pa pro rata. PAYE or self employed.
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Hi All, Would really appreciate any help. I require a chainsaw for garden maintenance, firewood cutting and pallet cutting. I have been using a old solo 645 (now dead) which i purchased second hand this served me well, but use to struggle with bigger timber. After reading this forum and seen the cult following of the 346, i have took the plunge and purchased a second hand 346xp from ebay. The seller has advised all parts are genuine husqvarna. It has had a new 15" bar, stihl 3/8 1.5 chain, spark plug, brake band, air filter and pull cord installed. I picked this saw over a new ms181, as everyone had a pretty negative opinion on it. Now i had a few questions: 1. Shall I get the saw ported? 2. Which bar length and (brand & model) is optimum for this saw, cutting all sorts dirty timber and all? 3. Which chain? I also had the opportunity to purchase a secondhand 550xp 3 years old, but decided against it for 346. This forum has been a great help and a amazing fountain of knowledge. Many thanks.
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Hello, just wondering if any of you no if this part is needed for anything?
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Hello, Over the past week all of my employees have broken at least one brake band. Having never broke a band myself I am wondering if there are any pro tips on what to look out for that might be causing excessive wear? They have all broke at the point where the band comes round and begins to wrap round the smaller circle nearer the brake handle. The saws are only 1 month old, all the same make, same model, from the same supplier. They have been going under tough conditions brashing and snedding gnarly sitka spruce though I'd hope to get more than a month out of a band. Given that I did not have as many brake bands in store as spare this will slow the job somewhat, so any advice on the issue would be much appreciated! all the best, Liam Broc
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Hi all, I am in need of a smaller saw for Coppicing smaller hazel trashing scrub etc... Currently I have a 365 huzqvarna which is great for larger coppice but is a bit of a lump when just trashing small stuff. I am open to ideas of all brands so what would you use/ recommend?
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Hi All, I've been lurking here for a long time, reading interesting discussions. However, I've got a question I'd be interested in people's views on. I've got a couple of 346XP (newer version) chainsaws, one bought in 2007 and the other in 2009. Having recently bought a 536LiXP, I decided to sell the older 346XP to a friend who was just starting in forestry. But, 6 weeks later it stopped dead while he was cleaning up a tree stump, and the engine wouldn't turn over. My assumption was not enough mixing oil, but we took it apart last night and found the piston had broken (see attached images), with no sign of overheating damage to piston or cylinder. So... I'm refunding him his money, as I sold it thinking it was working but promised that if it died in the near future I'd pay him back. And now I'm not sure what to do from the following options: 1. Have a go at repairing it myself. Problem here is I don't really need it (which is why I'd sold it) - I have a working 346XP, a larger petrol saw too and am trying to use the electric one as much as possible. 2. Keep it for spares for my other 346XP. But then I may not use any of the parts for years... 3. Sell it as it is for someone to repair or use for parts. It was in working order in all other respects. 4. Sell parts from it on ebay. (more money that option 3, but a lot more work) Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Thanks, Mike
