Peter 1955

I'm in the Goole/Howden area. I'm no good to mend the saw, but I do know who to take it to, and who not to. Will pm you, if I can work out how. Edit: I did. PM sent.

Keenly following this, as I have a thirty year old 023 which knocks lumps out of the 251 which replaced it. It has the same leak, and I'm idly wondering about trying my hand at a fix.

Well, prompt reply, from the man. Very interesting, and his reply makes absolute sense. Copied and pasted ( hopefully). Hi Peter, You have just hit the most debated subject amongst Farmertec users. The figures I quote are this recommended by Farmertec. We have to quote those. Now here’s the thing. I run all my saws, regardless of make, on 45:1 ( I like a little extra oil) and have done. For a very long time. With no issues, as long as you run the green fully synthetic oils. I recently stripped a 660 kit saw that has been in use for two years and run 50:1 and piston rings etc were perfect. Continued So if you bought from me, and run fully synthtic at 45:1 or 50:1 I would homer the warranty. Hoe that helps Ian

They also appear to have a big range of saws in all sizes. The top handle one looks very interesting, and let's say " awfully familiar". Farmertec G111 Blue Thunder Chainsaw, Similar To Stihl Ms200t WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Here we have the surgery saw in the range, the G111 saw head, which is based on the iconic stihl ms200t saw. The drive... The big question ( which I've asked him, waiting for a reply) is that they recommend 25:1 mix, but my Stihls are on Stihl oil at 50:1. Anyone have thoughts on that please?

I would have to agree with everything Dan said. Two things to point out, firstly any machine without some sort of auto return of the ram/splitter is a waste of time and energy. Once I've released the handles on mine, the ram returns to the start point, ready for another split. A customer showed me a tractor mounted one he'd bought, which simply stopped where it was upon release, and we told him we wouldn't entertain such a feature. As a side note, the Sheppach has a narrow, sharp wedge, as opposed to the really wide wedge on his. When we ran them side by side, his split logs faster, because of the more rapid wedge action, but I could split some that he couldn't, even though his machine was rated at a higher force. Secondly, we found out very early on that placing a trestle table or similar next to the splitter is a godsend. My helper could load this up with rounds, and have a rest, while I split them. Also, when splitting large diameter ones, in exactly the manner Dan suggests, you can put a split part back on the trestle, while you deal with the piece in your hand. This almost eliminates unnecessary bending.

I've got a Sheppach HL 710, from memory. Got it from Screwfix, and it has about a 2Kw motor. I see they now sell an uprated model instead, the HL 730 with about a 3Kw motor, and wider table. A quick Google of prices and suppliers shows a wild variation. I'm guessing mine is now discontinued. I'm very happy with mine.

Hello everyone, recently joined up, have looked in on here before for information, from time to time. I see there are many knowledgeable folk on here, so I expect you to be able to answer any of the stupid questions I may ask with well thought out, accurate and helpful replies. ( Don't worry, I realise that may be a big ask). About me: Spent my life in agriculture, until redundancy pushed me into becoming a Landscaper/Handyman/Groundworker/Builder's Labourer ( sometimes all at once) quite a few years ago! I muddle through with the help of cleverer people and the Internet. The one thing that's very apparent is that compared to many folk here, I'm a rank amateur, thus my quest for knowledge. Thanks for letting me in.