Baldbloke

Try keeping him off the Peroni

Our old retriever. 15 shortly. Still eats,wags tail, and yet to shit in the house. Been a great old girl that’s also given us two litters and for us to keep a daughter

Bloody hell that’s seriously hard on bars. Could it be something to do with the Aspen chain oil?

Thanks for your input Ratman. At least it got me out with more confidence to try again[emoji1303]

It’s not often something goes right or corrects itself,but after yesterday’s f***up and a bad tempered drive up some bumpy backroads it appears to have come good all by itself[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]. Took the car to the workshop and removed wheel and voila

That’s a rare purchase these days

I have just had a new hip which excuses my constant online presence (if I'm not trying to sort out my wanked out motors)?

I paid £50 odd quid for some heavy duty jump leads a couple of years ago from a tractor dealer, only to see their doubles in Lidl a couple of weeks later for £12.50. Occasionally there are bargains.

Bloody hell mate that was quick! Cheers for the tip. My first and probably last foray into airbags. ? Do you reckon WD40 would suffice? I can now see having looked at my own pictures that my second attempt (topmost picture) doesn't resemble the picture of the airbag before I f+++++ it up (picture of new unfitted bag alongside the old leaking bag).I'll let you know how I get on.

I'm normally pretty careful fitting parts but made a cock up fitting a replacement air spring on my old Mercedes estate car. Old ones came out no bother and new ones went in ok, I thought. On starting her up to activate the compressor it became apparent that the top of one of the air springs had dropped slightly and misaligned in its recess and come away from the locating peg. The things up to pressure now and pushing against the neighbouring shocker. Nothing for it but to remove it and realign it I thought. Trouble is the one way valve lives under the topmost part of the air spring and has the weight of the car on it. Because of the pressure it wasn't possible to nudge it over to be properly repositioned. Off with the bottom wishbone and lower mount for the air spring. The thing is now twice the length and resembles a horses todger. Partially off with the removable top to ease up the one way valve in order to release the pressure and then removed it. Now my question is how the f+++ do you roll back the rubber foreskin to ensure it deploys as it should when its repressurized? I've twice gone through the rigmarole of undoing everything and the last time thought I'd cracked it only for the final pressure to bulge a part of it out to one side. Although I'd managed to roll the lower part of its rubber over the lower mounting to resemble what it looked like out of the box I'd obviously not managed to actually emulate how it came from the factory. Anyone got experience of these things and got an answer for me?

Get a 2+ gallon one so it’s handy for bigger engines[emoji1303]

On a smaller 12.5 hp Briggs

Isn’t that what is being shown in your picture? I siphon oil out of all my vehicles/mowers/digger if at all possible. A Porsche is the only one that doesn’t work. This from the dipstick tube. It generally takes out more waste oil than removing the sump plug. This because the siphon tube hits the bottom of the oil pan. The sump plug because of the threads usually leaves up to 1/3” of dirty oil in the sump to contaminate the new oil.[emoji1304]

Profile says North Dorset

Planted some Blackthorn about 10 years ago for the sloes. Until last year, when we had a great crop, the bushes flowered before the frosts ended. As a result we have had one years crop out of five actual flowering’s. For the first five years the bushes didn’t flower as I presume they needed to mature a bit. So up here in Grampian it appears that the weather often fools some early shrubs into flowering prematurely. One wonders if this is because the stock is sourced from more southerly climes. Edit: Our Blackthorn is a couple of weeks away from flowering this year

They certainly earn their money and take a lot of shit from us muppets ?

Just before they had me in to do the hip they prepped me in a side room. I was basically bollock naked after a spinal and lying down getting the happy juice in through a cannula in the back of a hand. Three nurses heave-hoed me onto my side in readiness for the surgeon to do his bit. It was a very small space prior to being moved into the chop shop and my spare hand was around the arse of one of the nurses who herself was trapped between the trolley and the desk at the side. The anesthetist kept on asking how I was doing so he could regulate the happy juice into my veins. From my waist down I was completely numb following the spinal. I tapped the nurses arse and said that while I appreciated the free feel, I was unable to take it any further due to the spinal. Everyone including the nurse and surgeon just about wet themselves.

Got delayed until the following Monday, and out from hospital on the third day. Apart from the wound being tender the pain from within the hip is gone? Now I'll just have to moan about my knees.

No problem. I probably wasn't too clear about which posts I was actually referring to. Various previous posts had suggested that rich oil mixes as well as running a few tankfuls through a new saw at tickover might be good for a saw as a method for breaking them in. I personally don't believe that adding extra oil or running them at tickover for prolonged periods is beneficial. With running in 2 stroke bike engines we believed in being on and off the throttle (so that all the components settled in) and building up on the load/work fairly quickly. We also avoiding coasting off throttle for prolonged periods. We were forever whipping out plugs in those days, as this before unleaded fuels, and it gave a good idea on correct jet choice. However, someone else helpfully provided some figures about mix proportions against volume percentages which suggested that there is safe leeway. Carb jets in the name of efficiency are tiny, so there is something else to consider. Over oiling does change the viscosity of the fuel, so atomisation is poorer. Combine that with not running a high performance 2T motor at the designed full revs (or leaving a new saw ticking over for a few tanks strapped to a pallet as someone suggested) the droplet heavy mix entering the crankcase has a limited swirl effect and an inferior mist before it has the chance to enter the combustion chamber. Additionally, as the burn would be inefficient (because a saw is not designed to run in this manner) it is much more likely to leave unburnt oil deposits as coke on the plug and the exhaust port. Just where you don't want it.

Sorry, but you yourself said that the fuel air mix will be unaffected. That is incorrect when a portion of that pre-mixed fuel compromises more than recommenced amount of 2 T oil. You too will be well aware that the fuel is acknowledged as an essential part of the cooling part of the cycle prior to combustion and the oil is for lubrication. So, by adding more oil YOU ARE reducing the fuel to air ratio as it is a pre-mix, and has to travel through an exactly predetermined size of jet before entering the crankcase prior to the cylinder. Over-oiling while good for lubrication leans off the mix, so my suggestion was that it can be counterproductive by raising cylinder temperature. A rise over and above the norm, especially in a new and tight piston to bore interface is not what most engines need. Having never had to bother to fully rebuild a saw (just plenty of 2 and 4 T motor cycles and performance car engines/boxes) I will defer to your acknowledged experience on saws. However, I believe your comment that I’m Dumb or Dumber was unnecessary considering you know little of my background.

I’m no expert on saws but I used to do a few rebuilds on the old TZ and RG race bikes in the late 70/80s. I realise the oil wasn’t fully or part synthetic in those days and it was more common to run 2Ts at nearer 25:1 then. There was a guy who experienced as many nip ups and seizures as all the others I knew combined. It turned out he was overoiling his mixes thinking he was being kind to his motor. As a mix, only so much oil and fuel is able to be delivered through the main jet. Overoiling maybe great for the bottom end bearings and small end but that extra “teaspoon of oil” to a tankful of chainsaw oil is a significant reduction of fuel to air mix. You yourself admit it can lean off the mix because of this, so why do this to a new saw? I would suggest that the extra oil is counterproductive and even if it doesn’t make the top end run hotter, it will add coke to the plug. Surely if Sthil thought it necessary to add extra oil into the mix they would say so? Dumb or Dumber with your response?

I was always told that adding extra 2T oil is not so good because it alters the fuel/air ratios. A lean fuel mix can make the top end run hotter. Also that on and off the throttle let’s things bed in better, along with light initial workloads.

40 years ago we got some old factory floor joists a foot deep and about 9” wide. There was some surplus planking (made from the joists) that a builder friend used as gutter boards around a Workshop I had built 28 years ago. I didn’t mean him to waste them there but was working offshore to find them up on return. I never painted them but checked them 10 years ago when I sold the property. They had a bit of algae on them and were discoloured but otherwise still solid. 18 years unpainted in Scotland and still solid[emoji1303] Whenever I get the chance I buy up pitch pine. My last lot came from a church that was being removed.

How bizarre. That looks like there's a leak from the crankcases, yet if that was the case you'd think the motor wouldn't be running too well. Could it be chain oil that's been spilt after an overfill, found its way to below the cylinder, and it's following the join of the crankcase join afterwards? What is the colour of your 2 stroke oil, or pre-mix fuel? If it is an issue with a leak from the crankcase joint it could interfere with the fuel/air ratio and mix.