Baldbloke

No problem. I probably wasn't too clear about which posts I was actually referring to. Various previous posts had suggested that rich oil mixes as well as running a few tankfuls through a new saw at tickover might be good for a saw as a method for breaking them in. I personally don't believe that adding extra oil or running them at tickover for prolonged periods is beneficial. With running in 2 stroke bike engines we believed in being on and off the throttle (so that all the components settled in) and building up on the load/work fairly quickly. We also avoiding coasting off throttle for prolonged periods. We were forever whipping out plugs in those days, as this before unleaded fuels, and it gave a good idea on correct jet choice. However, someone else helpfully provided some figures about mix proportions against volume percentages which suggested that there is safe leeway. Carb jets in the name of efficiency are tiny, so there is something else to consider. Over oiling does change the viscosity of the fuel, so atomisation is poorer. Combine that with not running a high performance 2T motor at the designed full revs (or leaving a new saw ticking over for a few tanks strapped to a pallet as someone suggested) the droplet heavy mix entering the crankcase has a limited swirl effect and an inferior mist before it has the chance to enter the combustion chamber. Additionally, as the burn would be inefficient (because a saw is not designed to run in this manner) it is much more likely to leave unburnt oil deposits as coke on the plug and the exhaust port. Just where you don't want it.

Sorry, but you yourself said that the fuel air mix will be unaffected. That is incorrect when a portion of that pre-mixed fuel compromises more than recommenced amount of 2 T oil. You too will be well aware that the fuel is acknowledged as an essential part of the cooling part of the cycle prior to combustion and the oil is for lubrication. So, by adding more oil YOU ARE reducing the fuel to air ratio as it is a pre-mix, and has to travel through an exactly predetermined size of jet before entering the crankcase prior to the cylinder. Over-oiling while good for lubrication leans off the mix, so my suggestion was that it can be counterproductive by raising cylinder temperature. A rise over and above the norm, especially in a new and tight piston to bore interface is not what most engines need. Having never had to bother to fully rebuild a saw (just plenty of 2 and 4 T motor cycles and performance car engines/boxes) I will defer to your acknowledged experience on saws. However, I believe your comment that I’m Dumb or Dumber was unnecessary considering you know little of my background.

I’m no expert on saws but I used to do a few rebuilds on the old TZ and RG race bikes in the late 70/80s. I realise the oil wasn’t fully or part synthetic in those days and it was more common to run 2Ts at nearer 25:1 then. There was a guy who experienced as many nip ups and seizures as all the others I knew combined. It turned out he was overoiling his mixes thinking he was being kind to his motor. As a mix, only so much oil and fuel is able to be delivered through the main jet. Overoiling maybe great for the bottom end bearings and small end but that extra “teaspoon of oil” to a tankful of chainsaw oil is a significant reduction of fuel to air mix. You yourself admit it can lean off the mix because of this, so why do this to a new saw? I would suggest that the extra oil is counterproductive and even if it doesn’t make the top end run hotter, it will add coke to the plug. Surely if Sthil thought it necessary to add extra oil into the mix they would say so? Dumb or Dumber with your response?

I was always told that adding extra 2T oil is not so good because it alters the fuel/air ratios. A lean fuel mix can make the top end run hotter. Also that on and off the throttle let’s things bed in better, along with light initial workloads.

40 years ago we got some old factory floor joists a foot deep and about 9” wide. There was some surplus planking (made from the joists) that a builder friend used as gutter boards around a Workshop I had built 28 years ago. I didn’t mean him to waste them there but was working offshore to find them up on return. I never painted them but checked them 10 years ago when I sold the property. They had a bit of algae on them and were discoloured but otherwise still solid. 18 years unpainted in Scotland and still solid[emoji1303] Whenever I get the chance I buy up pitch pine. My last lot came from a church that was being removed.

How bizarre. That looks like there's a leak from the crankcases, yet if that was the case you'd think the motor wouldn't be running too well. Could it be chain oil that's been spilt after an overfill, found its way to below the cylinder, and it's following the join of the crankcase join afterwards? What is the colour of your 2 stroke oil, or pre-mix fuel? If it is an issue with a leak from the crankcase joint it could interfere with the fuel/air ratio and mix.

Bloody brilliant! A great read even if biological things aren’t your strong point. If you thought you knew everything about trees, think again.

Wish you and your love all the best. Glad to hear they have pulled their socks up and now trying their best regarding treatment. Don't be afraid to ask questions about anything you don't understand (no matter how apparently stupid) so that your wife, and you, can discuss everything to make informed choices. All the best, Godfrey.

I'm off for hip replacement next Thursday. Been waiting for nearly six months but very grateful for the opportunity via the NHS. Trouble is the knee on the same side is wanked out too, so recovery is going to be a bit slow. Consultant says he will do the knee after, but I probably should have insisted on being put on the list immediately after being accepted for a hip. The joys of getting older and having done manual labour for 35+ years?

11 KVA so I'm told. Plenty enough to fry you. Dropped a tree in leaf against some similar lines many years ago. Top went up in flames and saved me looking for a lighter to burn the brash?

I used some kind of cheaper board with a plastic coating recommended by my local builders merchant. The offcuts i used on a smaller trailer so there were was no wastage. About half the price of the resin impregnated proper boarding. I covered the boards with sacrificial thinner exterior ply, and sealed any gaps with silicon. My reasoning was that with rough handling and chucking on logs the exterior ply could be replaced every few years and the boards underneath would last. This has worked for two years so far, but my trailer is kept in a shed when not used. However, the smaller trailers floor which is kept outside fell apart within the two years as the plastic coated boarding was shite because it was left in the elements and the boarding within absorbed rain water and swelled. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Never had issues with supermarket fuel. It tends to have a quicker turnover than say a rural independent. It’s bio percentage is not determined by being a supermarket or independent supplier. You’ll notice some unbranded/ non sign written lorries supply supermarkets and independents. Ive been told the lorries collect from the same refinery out of the same pipes. I’ve always filled my 20 ltr Jerry cans without issues. Glad to see HSE suggest this is acceptable

Bet the mason pissed himself doing that inscription[emoji1303]

Truly green in many respects.

I don’t suppose it’s the money maker it once was anyway

Bit like a storage heater then? Expect they take a little longer to heat up though. Swings and roundabouts

Large enough bungalow but self built with underfloor heating throughout. I agree, something is not right

I have a neighbour who has installed a biomass log burner in his new build. I didn't want to criticise his (or his installers) workings but cannot agree with the sizes chosen for his accumulator tank. As it's a new build, I'm presuming his house must be fully insulated, so heat loss should be minimal. However, he is doing two burns/fires a day at present, and his pile of logs is diminishing more quickly than my wood usage for a three floor seven bedroom manse. I suspect his accumulator tank at 1000 litres would have been better had it been at least two thousand litres. It appears that the small tanks reserves cannot sustain the demand for 24 hours. He had a wood lorry of supposedly seasoned big logs delivered and cuts into logs as needed. His 22/24 cubed wagon delivery happened in mid September and was set down in a field opposite his house. The pile in three months is two thirds used already, so I reckon on him having already used 12-15 tonnes. Hopefully he is getting some subsidy payments to cover his usage. I believe my tank is either 4000 litre or 4500 litres with an expansion tank of 500 litres. I'm seriously considering to piggybank an additional 2000 litre tank onto the installation as the 65 kW boiler often exceeds the household demand and could comfortably heat another tank and stop the frequent over firing along with messages stating that I've used too much wood in the boiler. If I did that I'd move the electric immersions (powered from the wind turbine) from the big 4000 ltr tank into the new smaller tank as I reckon they'd do a more efficient job of heating the smaller body of water. It has all been a learning experience.

Borrowing a rifle and using it under the supervision of the estate keeper requires no paperwork. Borrowing it without supervision is an offence. A sex toy in the equation is just wrong

Our 60Kw boiler takes a big builders heaped barrow a winter day. We too kept the oil boiler (for when we’re working or back from staying away) and have to switch two levers and turn a switch. Before the biomass we burnt more wood in stoves to heat a couple of rooms. The biomass can now heat the whole house. Much more efficient. Insulation? No. Georgian manse so bugger all.

Thanks. It’s a lot of work to maintain. AIRBNB is great as you can do it when you want. We both work so that was the main limiting factor. Also it’s easier to just let out one room and en suite. Otherwise it would be easy enough to make it a business and let out three rooms but we preferred to keep it under the tax free limit of £7500/ pa

Here’s ours. 60 kW. 4000 litre tank. Just heats our house. One burn every three days during summer and once a day during the winter. Probably uses about 35 tonnes annually. we are in Moray, NE Scotland

The RHI application was approved but not taken up by me about 18 months ago. Don’t know if the rate has dropped since then, but I didn’t think it was worth the hassle of claiming at that time.

Logs/wood I should add that although I missed out on any subsidies to help cover the 24.5 k installation cost, the last 6 years has seen my oil bill reduce by between 3 and 4 thousand pounds annually. So even without the subsidy it still works faultlessly, and has just about paid for itself by saving on oil. I have also recently put multiple immersions in the accumulator which means that if it’s windy the turbine can help maintain the tanks temperature if it’s already sitting at 70 C. It’s also satisfying playing around with the two resources to effectively keep a large house warm while generating a bit of income.

Therminator 11 60kW