Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Can't see why, you don't need permission to remove deadwood either. Quote from the gov website: "An Order prohibits the: cutting down topping lopping uprooting wilful damage wilful destruction of trees without the local planning authority’s written consent."
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Make a nice clean cut after wrapping it. If you can heatshrink the end it lasts better. You'll also need a new stopper knot in the top bit, otherwise you won't stop till you've gone past the gap.
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Oak? Identification please :)
Dan Maynard replied to David88's topic in Tree Identification pictures
It's absolutely definitely wood after all. -
Silver birch over prune?? Please Help
Dan Maynard replied to laura9988's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Is that the finished job? Bit odd the way all the tops are the same height if so, it's what I would call a flat top. Not great shape. I wouldn't worry too much because it will grow back, but next time I'd ask for some photos of reductions the tree surgeon has done before and satisfy yourself they know what they're doing. -
I don't think I'd touch it either, in my mind though you have to assess whether you think there is a risk of the steel cables or U bolts failing? Especially the U bolts as they look to be corroding. If a cable breaks then you have a very sudden change in load on the wood, might happen in a storm and then I'd guess much more likely to have a limb failure. Maybe in that case you'd need to set some new cables or put some backup ones in.
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I'm a bit confused too, only ever needed a quick go with a flat file on my bars. Maybe a bit of draw filing to sort out burrs on top of rail but nothing that needs a grinder.
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Wanted PTO so not including an engine at least.
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Maybe it works, can't rely on the quality descriptions on AliExpress... Electric saw blade is a high wear item, metal chain rides on metal track, metal to metal wear quickly, even if you add fuel, your bar still wear heavily, the grille becomes wider, causing the chain to wander, making the saw cut bent, as the chain swings between the tracks, this tool will quickly close the gap to factory specifications
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Not had them side by side but different part numbers so I'd reckon it's a no.
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Look a bit like the engine has moved forward a mm or two? If the engine bolts slip a bit then with the vibration they have been under stress cycling so failed through fatigue. The end of weld and sharp corners at the thread make this a great spot for a crack to start. I guess one answer would be tension the belt, tighten down the engine, then unload the studs.
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Whats your multione loader doing today ?
Dan Maynard replied to digaholedumper's topic in General chat
That is definitely the way to do that! -
Theres no practical difference between 8 and 8.2 spec surely? That's only two hairs of clearance which you'd probably have anyway.
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Not read many arbtalk threads then.
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Eject - ed?
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Can you find a sunken spot or change in grass where another one's been taken down and ground out? Seems to take a few years for the roots left behind to get fruiting fungi above ground.
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I was thinking maybe he didn't make it to the top to put the cambium saver in.
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My mate put his Stanley flask down behind my trailer wheel, didn't leak but never really held heat again once I'd made the outside can touch the inside.
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Probably 20W50 as two stroke oil then.
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If you're chopping between the two then surely that's a different test? The problem talked about is a long time on pump fuel and then switch only to aspen.
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I guess on an island every foot of land is important.
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I was sent to reduce an eleagnus, looked around and couldn't see it in the garden so had to ask the customer, and they pointed at a tree nearly that big which I was standing next to. So not often, but I have seen a big eleagnus before.
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You probably need cover then, and ideally find a windy spot so it's always blowing through the stack. I have a woodshed down the side of the garage which is a bit of a wind tunnel, something like that. Moving the damp air away from the logs is key. I think people do build dehumidifier kilns, but evaporating water takes a lot of energy so kiln drying is expensive.
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You might start with something like a Bandit ZT1844, think then bit less than 20k. Not a super strong machine but hydraulic head means you're not physically pushing the cutter yourself.
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Bit like a piece of string, depends on the weather. Most Octobers not much drying but with this heat and wind they will be. Rough rule of thumb maybe, as a starter for discussion, wood can season in 4-6 weeks in optimal conditions outside, which means summer heat and wind. If you do something like heat and forced ventilation in a polytunnel, then quicker. Depends where you are in the country too, I'm in East Anglia which is dry.
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I have got a Sachs Dolmar 112 which says on it to mix 25:1, it's quite smoky if you actually do though.
