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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. I really like Patrick at https://www.educatedclimber.com/dr-ed-gilman-teaching-series/ Depends if you like watching or reading, Ed Gilman also has a 600 page book which is basically the same material. Lots of his videos are great, even starting with what knots to use to send stuff aloft.
  2. Sell the 390 and buy a 592xpg.
  3. A load was sold out of our local wood, no good for timber but I believe it went for shavings for horse bedding, somewhere up near Grantham. Apparently worth a bit more than biomass.
  4. Maybe while I'm on, those NPTC courses are all about using the equipment and not much about trees. It is good to read up about tree I'd, tree growth, pruning, fungi etc as well because otherwise you find out how to cut but not much about why or where which are also obviously important.
  5. If you have funds and time then I would do what is widely known as CS30/31, that is a 1 week course in saw maintenance, cross cut and felling trees up to 380mm (quals have been renumbered but most people seem to know the old numbers). It's a good fun week, it's the starting qualification for everyone, and once you have that you can use a chainsaw on the ground on site so are much more employable. Then get yourself some boots, trousers and helmet that fit and you're good to go.
  6. Pretty sure I did mine in A's. 261s seem to be a bit thin on the ground at the moment, more 550s showing in stock.
  7. Have you done any tree surgery to get experience? The change from IT to tree surgeon is pretty brutal on the body if you are not fit. Maybe take a one week felling and chainsaw and then do some work, get your strength and fitness up before trying the climbing etc. Lots of people advertising for ground workers so should be possible to get some days if you ring around.
  8. To be fair I haven't tried the neat freak but I just haven't found dangling lanyard a problem that needs solving, it drags through after me. Anything that creates a loop seems to increase chance of it catching on stuff.
  9. Guess that's an 8 foot sheet?
  10. Hate to say it but the most important layer is just underneath the bark. In the second photo it looks a bit like brown patches on the front and also lower down, which are not a good sign. How is the leaf coverage on the tree? Can you take some photos from further back?
  11. Top of this lime was a bowl of mush, was topped really rather than pollard so just initiated severe decay.
  12. I pulled one of those out of father-in-laws garage when we were clearing it. Had a quick go but I'll stick with my Bahco P34, I find they are strong enough to cut through branches so don't get stuck, and they are telescopic so I have a longer string when the pole is longer.
  13. Second for foot and HAAS, just add if you have a hitchclimber pulley then the HAAS elastic clips in to a spare hole nicely. Never felt the need to add hand ascender as that would be more gear clinking around.
  14. If it fits in the chipper it's going in the chipper....
  15. Well, I just file everything to 30 degrees whether Stihl, Oregon or old Husqvarna chain (which I think is Oregon anyway). Got some Oregon EXL recently which comes ground to 25 but the limit marks on top of teeth are at 30, so I went for 30. Just looks right to me now. I don't know what wood the saw will be cutting next when I put it away so no chance to alter for hard/soft woods, that might apply more in forestry I guess.
  16. It can be mould from the damp condensation inside the ducts, you can get Aircon "treatment" which is supposed to kill that and make it fresh again. Or in some vehicles pollen filter going mouldy, that can be changed.
  17. 300mm from the ground sounds almost like decking, surely there are codes of practice for that? Not everyone gets a structural engineers report for a deck do they?
  18. I think to be fair you should be calmly driving a Volvo anyway if you're going to Sweden, no good riding around in a French van.
  19. Round here we had really late frost, could that have damaged the early emerging leaves?
  20. Exactly. Not all trees die from ash die back, I'm extending the logic to propose that not all ash trees die from ash die back. FC have now updated the identification document showing symptoms with a couple of mature tree photos but also point out could be insect damage. I'm still thinking it's hard to be sure on those mature trees, most of the id is around young shoots and wilted leaves which I don't see on our ash trees. They don't look right though, have to agree with that.
  21. Spend decent money on a good (eg Silky) pole saw that will reach 5m easy. They do longer but the disadvantage of going super long is being heavier than it needs to be when shortened down. That's what I'd use for lower limbs anyway, you will save thousands not buying the climbing gear and training. It's a lot quicker and easier to pole saw than climb.
  22. Crikey they are cheap! The one I found was the result of looking for quick update on the rpm meter and I thought it was quite cheap. I could do with one that picks up 240vac motor running for the log splitter now though....
  23. Only other thing is try to start early and finish early.
  24. Bought one of these to measure chainsaw rpm tuning but it measures hours as well. Searon Backlit Digital Tach Hour Meter Tachometer for Small Engine Boat Generator Lawn Mower Motorcycle Motocross ATV Snowmobile UTV : Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Great prices on your favourite Gardening brands, and free delivery on eligible orders. I found there are some where you can't change the battery, you have to decide if that's a good thing because more weatherproof that way.
  25. I've looked an ash recently, it's clearly not well but I can't see any of the symptoms listed for ADB except leaves missing so how do we tell? Is there an updated list of symptoms for bigger trees? It's also been very dry, had a willow the other day which had suddenly died and I'd put that down to drought rather than ADB.

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