Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Pretty sure my 261 has an adjustable oil pump, that's 2010 model.
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I haven't used the 24hp one, would be interesting - but on the older 37 I would say the stress control rarely kicks in unless you stick big bits of wood in all the time, so there is plenty of power spare. 24hp may actually be enough for normal use. Maybe they would do you a trial?
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He can go deeper though, say in a coal mine. Not in Suffolk though.
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You'll always get much more wear at the splice end, so having two splices can mean twice the life out of the rope. Or if you damage the rope and need to cut a section off you still have a splice so again doubles the life. Then again if it's a long rope you don't use much then it will still need retiring at 5 years so maybe not save anything.
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I don't think hawthorn, what I've had split really easy and was paler than that. I'd say pear still possible. Can be small trees but I've cut 18" hawthorn and pear.
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How many cubic metres are there? Is 5 cube a quarter a drop in the ocean or would it be a viable to do over a few quarters?
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Proper clotted cream in Cornwall is more like butter.
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Are you trying to wind up the people from Cornwall? Or Devon? Sure one of them will say you put the cream on first.
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Ah, they're the only general building tool maker that bought a proper chainsaw company up too (Dolmar) so it kind of makes sense. I have Makita battery toppers, I'm a fan too. I'd go with the 18v Makita if the stems are wrist thickness, it is so light, think they do a rear handled version which will be better for control. Or the battery Echo is excellent apparently but more money.
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It will only take 5 or 6 seconds to cut so 40 minutes is say 400 stems, when you're not cutting, it's off. Two batteries would do a load.
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Have you tried a 230 with sharp rollers? If you're chipping straight stuff it's just the hp and so maybe not a huge difference but give it something gnarly and the 230 gobbles up stuff you'd have to dress and fiddle about with to get the 150 to take. Huge difference to throughput, I think if you go with a four man team anywhere then a 150 could easily become a bottleneck whereas a 230 won't.
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I would season your wood outside in pallets and then bring a winter's burning in to the lean to in September/October before the weather turns so that it stays dry over winter for burning. Put some pallets over the floor first so as to keep damp out of the bottom. I have mostly IBC cages, these work really well as airflow is good but the only snag is getting the logs out after. If you are building from pallets I would suggest put three sides around a base but leave the front off with maybe a couple of low planks across, that way will be easy to lean in after and grab the logs.
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Turnover is vanity..... Well someone had to say it.
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It is definitely a field and not just a really really big garden? I think we've had this question before and not sure we really got an answer where you draw the line.
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Battery saw.
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Here Tree Preservation Orders and trees in conservation areas - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Explains the legislation governing Tree Preservation Orders and tree protection in conservation areas. Paragraph 132 . If you click "protecting trees in conservation areas" it gets you close.
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I hadn't heard of this but looks like it's exempt from needing a 211 if it needs a felling licence (pasted from .gov). Never had to get a felling licence, imagine it's not quick. What other types of tree work do not require a section 211 notice? A section 211 notice is not required where the cutting down, topping, lopping or uprooting of a tree is permissible under an exception to the requirement to apply for consent under a Tree Preservation Order. Nor is a section 211 notice required for: the cutting down, topping, lopping or uprooting of a tree by, or on behalf of, the authority; the cutting down, topping, lopping or uprooting of a tree by or on behalf of the Forestry Commission on land in which it has an interest; or cutting down a tree in accordance with a felling licence or a plan of woodland operations agreed by the Forestry Commission.
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Stop it, you'll have him out buying a nail gun.
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That's a good shout, used to have one for my petrol camping stove. Personally I'd get a 5 litre metal Jerry, the Stihl measuring bottles have a mark for 3 litre so you can top up from the pump before it's empty.
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When people say they'll try anything once, they should be reminded it is not a good rule to apply to everything.
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Well I'm 17 stone and don't snap too much, you'll be fine. And I started at 45 and maybe wish I'd done it earlier too, but then life's like that - all you can do is move forward. I did my 38 and then had a gap, it worked for me because I managed to get some climbing in doing prunes etc so by the time I was on the 39 I was more confident dangling on a rope and could think more about the saw.
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I'd upgrade the TW150, but keep it as a second chipper. Then try finding one more staff member, maybe subby and run two teams some days and see how it goes. Some days a team of four is great. If it's going well then add staff, you have the major equipment already. I think in a way the question is one we can't answer, with bigger firm you have more logistics, equipment maintenance, extra paperwork, talking to more customers, etc etc. This is either enjoyable and a welcome break for your aching body - or a load more hassle when you'd rather be in a tree.
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38/39 is the essential, 40 and 41 are usually listed as desirable in job adverts. I have 41, for me it was useful as it made my rigging safer and more effective but a lot of people just carry on without and pick up skills at work. Lighter is always better as less work to pull yourself up the tree, if you start climbing you will probably find the weight magically fall off. It's not a barrier though, more fitness than weight.
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Isn't it just that lopro isn't up to the power of an 880, ie nothing wrong with lopro as long as you use it for what it's designed for? I'm not a frequent miller so I have a lopro 36" bar that I put on my 372, the low profile compensates to a degree for not having as much power. So far not broken any chains that way.
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Hopefully someone can chip in, I've never seen carbide chain or met anyone who says they've used it so I reckon it's fairly uncommon stuff. In theory diamond is about the only thing you can sharpen carbide with so maybe the answer is to give it a go and see if it works?
