Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Fair enough, I can't see the tree and what I know about bracing you can write on a postcard. Could be that rollard is the right answer though, to me there's something incongruous about a bit of plastic rope in the scale of the lifetime of an oak tree. Also, I've seen a fair few braces hanging off one end whilst deadwooding around Cambridge, they seem to be fit and forget whereas evidently you need to keep going back every few years and checking, moving, replacing as the tree grows.
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Qualification Info on Chainsaw mill
Dan Maynard replied to Gadgetman24's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
I should probably have written CS30, so basics of running a saw - cross cutting wood, sharpening, bar maintenance, saw safety features, PPE requirements, etc. Felling being CS31 less relevant. Also as Andy said you're going to cut something out of the mill at some point. -
Qualification Info on Chainsaw mill
Dan Maynard replied to Gadgetman24's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Are you using them for work? If you're at home, crack on and do whatever you like. If at work then Puwer puts an onus on you (and your employer if applicable) to have received adequate training but doesn't say what the training should be. I would have thought it's difficult to argue that you don't need the basic chainsaw ticket to use a chainsaw mill, as far as I know there is no specific training course for milling anyway. So I'd say CS30/31 modern equivalent. -
You're right though, sounds like one to avoid if they won't agree to any reduction.
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Tree 100% safe.
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I take a big wheelie bin along, it's light blue so obviously mine. My trailer is much lower than a transit though, I can see would be more of a pain into a truck with it.
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If you look at the course details it will say which certificates are pre-requisite, for example you don't need anything before to do the climb and aerial rescue, but then must hold both climbing and chainsaw tickets to do chainsaw in a tree. So yes you can collect the ground ones only, as you want to.
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I know what you mean, I wondered that because the leaves look too big to be hawthorn. On the other hand they are hawthorn shape, just magnified.
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Well just to update and close this thread, I was going to buy a muck truck HMax but due to engine shortages from Honda none available. So I went for the ex-demo orange one, and made some enormous greedy boards. Brilliant bit of kit. Shifted 2 tonne of wood the other day up a long garden, didn't break a sweat. Thanks all for the comments and advice.
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I went for a 9010 which came with a bar and five chains - but they were all junk. So after buying bar, chains, sprocket, air filter, oil pump, clutch bearing, and spending time sorting it out, it's a good saw but not such a bargain as it looked. Good luck with the 661, it's probably what I should have done in the first place.
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If you've got a long arm on a kombi that is more like the rough cut anyway so sort of covers that.
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Thats a bugger. On the other hand I had a genuine JoBeau blade which cracked (not catastrophically) and they replaced the pair no question. I have stuck with genuine since.
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Personally I wouldn't run the red in the new saw, even if you have 4 litres that isn't much compared to the cost/value of the saw.
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I run ultra, after working out it mixes with 250 litres of fuel and what that costs, the percentage increase on 255 litres of fuel isn't so bad. Also, that does a lot of trees for me. I have heard it said theres a fuel stabiliser in there - hard to find any details though. Is it just shelf life, or does it do anything to ethanol? It has an E25 symbol on the pot, what does this mean? Thinking maybe as a dealer you get a bit more info?
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Are they good on a 36" ? I've a 9010 which I would have said best Makita for that length but I don't have a 7900 to compare. Otherwise the Stihl 660 seems popular, Husqvarna 395 prices I guess will come down a bit with the release of 592xp.
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If it's a small firm then there's everything else to do as well as pay you, maybe the admin all gets sorted once a week. To me I wouldn't think 7 day payment terms unreasonable, although when I have subbies myself I do try to pay on the day.
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Bet they won't tell you which summer either...
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Dickinson's in Byker, Newcastle might be another option. They have resoled boots for me before, may be able to do that. Edit resoled not resolved. Not sure how you'd resolve a boot.
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I forget to turn mine off sometimes and then spend a few days being disturbed in the night by a funny noise before realising it's the compressor again. Have recently bought an Energenie plug which turns on for 30min when you press the green button, so now even if I forget to turn the compressor itself off it will not come back on. Cost about a tenner.
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Currently have a cracked screen on mine from doing this. In the van current safe place.
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Yes, I'd quite like to grind the stump now to find out what the roots are actually like - I suspect mostly dead.
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Easy split with 6t.
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Mine has a two stage pump, as openspaceman says it means it moves fast with no load (especially return stroke) and slows when it hits resistance. I think ultimately as mine is a single phase electric drive I'm limited by power, you can do different stuff if engine driven like I guess the intensifier.
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And the near the top you wouldn't know there is a problem
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Part way up the stem there is more sound wood
