dan blocker
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Everything posted by dan blocker
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The judge says - ''every one agrees the work should of been carried out from a mewp''! If one judge as already said it can it not now be used as a precedent? I was told many years ago that this should be the same for all tree work:confused1: With a risk assessment the safest option should be employed at all times, carry out the work from the ground, use a mewp, crane, climb the tree only as a last resort, etc. Cost should not be a factor! I don't personally do it this way - just throwing it out there. I'm putting the tin helmet on now and taking cover in the bottom of the trench waiting for incoming:001_rolleyes:
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I support what Remora107 says - had a new Land Rover chassis, left it 12 months(don't ask:001_rolleyes:) washed it off with Mordant solution and then just primed and top coated it black as normal. Its cheap, easy to apply, and just hose off, leaves a blackish colour as well before painting. Paint is still good after 3 years - better than a new puma 12 months old! cos I'm sure they used a water based emulsion in the factory:confused1:
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I remember my father cutting down 100's of Elms in the early 70's and all decent butts went for milling and if my memory serves me correctly pit props? Obviously what wasn't millable went for firewood and the rest burnt on site. There were no restrictions in the movement of wood killed by Dutch Elm Disease in those days at least in our area.
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If I were you and your going to the trouble and expense of having the tree milled I would have it cut to the sizes you require to build your cabin. You require some drawings and do a cutting list of the timber that you would require. Work out what the oak but would yield(ask whoever you get to do the milling) as they would be able to confirm what is possible - thats if there are no hidden horrors inside the butt such as rot, shake, fissures etc. Good luck with the project, using your own timber for such a project is very rewarding - even though the tree will probably not provide as much timber as you would hope:001_rolleyes:
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Very nice looking truck, too good to put a chip box on:001_cool: Get an old one and keep the new one for Sunday best:001_rolleyes:
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Become a EU migrant worker here, go home for a month and get all your national insurance back:sneaky2: Thats of course if your employed legally and not on the cash only black market or working for a gang master:001_rolleyes:
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I once hit a steel wedge some fool had put into the cut on the other side of the tree, cursed and ranted! then realised the fool was me!
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Ashby de la Zouch hedge flail required ASAP
dan blocker replied to monkeybusiness's topic in General chat
Is it not too late to Flail a hedge? and I don't mean 10.40 at night either:001_rolleyes: -
I've spotted the problem - they don't take to kindly to being planted on a cliff face:001_rolleyes:
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I, like some others, am a little suspicious:confused1: Where are you in the country Mr Desperate?
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Obviously I didn't explain myself very well, I've got one eye on the rugby! That sandringham probably didn't have locking diffs, not very good mud tyres, not much weight overall. 6 wheels can mean there's less weight on to each tyre than a standard 4 wheel. Perhaps the poster can confirm! Land rovers to be any good in wet conditions need to have after market locking diffs otherwise they can be pretty poor and an embarrassment
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Not sure if there were locking axle diffs on the 1st post of the 6 wheel sandringham with all wheels spinning but I suspect not. There looked to be no grip whats so ever and the diffs met no resistance so all wheels turned. If any of the wheels got a hint of grip the opposite wheel would of probably stopped moving. The only way to get 100% grip/drive would be to have after-market locking axle diffs on all axles and of course correct tyres for the conditions. Without them a land rover can be pretty crap on slippery surface conditions. Of course thats just my opinion:001_rolleyes:
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Thanks to everyone so far with your posts. Its a development site so all necessary permissions have been received for the hedge removal - that said most of the mature trees are staying but the hawthorne is a foot diameter or more and pretty sparse mixed with Elder so not really a hedge:001_rolleyes: and is to be replaced with a new mixed planted hedge/ screen but further back - you all know what ideas some of these landscape architects come up with:001_rolleyes: As for the fence its short term -2/3 years. Because of its close proximity to a public path in places I propose to put the barb wire on the inside of the stakes if the client insists on it but will recommend topping with plain wire. As for disturbing the nesting birds I've employed some cypriots to shoot any bird that comes within a 100mts of the hedge! Before I'm hung drawn and quartered I'm Only Joking:laugh1:
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I would go for the spanish weather(except high summer:thumb down:) But defo the Cumbrian views(except in mid winter:thumb down:)
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Whats your preference so far, if your in commercial and amenity I presume you've already had experience in domestic so far with one or the other or Jenson, Bandit etc?
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Have a job removing 100mts of old hedgerow with some large oak and ash next to a footpath/ road. The client as asked me to fence it with pig wire topped with two strands of barbed wire but on the public side! I seem to remember that barb wire cannot be on the public side of the fence:confused1: Am i correct or as old age caught up with me:001_huh: Thanks Dan
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Hazel - To be really sure go back there in August/ September and you will probably have grown some nuts:thumbup:
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Fair play to you Alex for posting this Video. We don't normally show our mistakes. As some have already said the previous shock loading of the slings when taking down the limbs would not have helped. One of the advantages of using a crane is the system does not get shock loaded if the branches are cradled and verticals are obviously lifted from the top. The crane should not have to rip off pieces that are not cut completely/ step cut. The quality and loading of the slings in another matter! We always use the same slings for crane work as their history is known - never been shock loaded! We continue to learn:thumbup:
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It takes two to bid up to that price:confused1: One as no previous transactions:001_huh:
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Is the tractor on ebay the one on the post or not?
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Yes, I read the whole thread:confused1:I suppose the bottom line is - Its up to me!
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[quote name='sargan;1557917 Plan B is I pay a guy to come in with a tracked stump grinder …. but when I asked he wanted around £1200 cash to do this' date=' and I still had to cut all trees down to ground level first.[/quote'] Its common to have the trees down before the stump grinder comes in:confused1: What ever you do the trees need to come down quick or you may find yourself with a nesting bird problem. Leave 4 or 5 feet trunks though to give you options:thumbup:
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With no pictures and information coming piece-meal would it not be best to call some contractors to come and see for themselves and give you some prices and maybe some ideas! We're all guessing, but good luck with it.
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Have some TW 150 chipper blades that need resharpening. Do they have to be hollow ground? Spoke to a company that sharpen them and they say its just a Timber Wolf thing and they can be just sharpened on a flat bevel. What do you chaps think?
