bmp01
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Everything posted by bmp01
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Dunno, although OP's here asking - so maybe it's safe to assume splitting and remaking chains is not a regular past time other wise he'd have just got on with it ? I guessed Cessna just wants to buy the right length chain with possibility to return the too short one. But I really dont know.... "Wreaking it" poor choice of wording on my part, soz.
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Nah, kind of you to say, but I doubt it. I'm just a tight git and don't like wreaking stuff.
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Just to add, my head gets in a spin sometimes, trying to not double count half a link at the ends, take care.
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I think you could do it without breaking your 56 link chain, but you'll need to do some counting ! Put the chain on the bar only. Mark the bar with a pen right next to a rivet on top and bottom rail, count the number of drive links between marks. Take the chain off the bar and wrap it around the drive sprocket and a suitable distance up the bar, ie past the two marks you made earlier. Count number of links between marks, add to previous number, job done. See pictures. Might need an extra person or cable ties or something to hold the chain while count.
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Ok.
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I'll take your word for it. But as a general rule that wont be true. There will be a reason the 0.043 cut slower in that instance be that chain sharpness (inc raker height) or type of chain, chain tension, bar condition, etc, etc. If the power head has enough omph to run both chains at the same chain speed they will cut at same speed, give or take. In reality the thicker chain will have lower chain speed due to extra drag and cut slower as a result.
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Exactly ! Surprise, shock, dispair.... Tiny click noise (rod becoming detatched I suspect) followed by several small things dropping on the floor, (saw was on its side while fiddling with piston circlip).Thought it was buggered at that point. But collected up all the rollers I could find, quick count up and a few sums later it worked out that side by side the rollers would wrap around the crankpin leaving 1mm gap. That'll do ! Cleaning followed by grease on rollers and crankpin.... 2 mins of sweaty palm stuff and the rod popped back into place. Found there was only one orientation of rod and crank where it would come apart so parked in safe position and retired for a break. Actually not too hard to put back together once all the bits were found but I did think it was game over for a bit.
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Thought you might like it. Poor thing has been negleted and got hot - cylinder bolts were all but loose. Then this happened while fitting piston circlip ....😨....💩
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Needed the air compressor (at low pressure) to feed this hungry air leak 😄
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Everything's fixable.... not necessarily economical though with shop hourly rates. It has little to no value as a door stop or shed filler - have a go at fixing it yourself, no downside really. Crank seals wont usually leak much oil ... it sounds like you have a lot of oil leaking to stop the clutch driving the chain. Maybe the oil feed to the guide bar is leaking somewhere? (If the bar and chain are off then the oil pump will be going all the time the engine is running, so spewing oil from the bar mount area). MS251 should out run 023. Being a bit more modern and subject to emissions legislation, I wonder if 251 needs 'a muffler mod' to wake it up? Hah, here's a thought, might be possible to swap the exhaust from the 023 to the 251, if so that'd be a very quick experiment. Do the exhausts look different interms of exit hole size? Bigger is better within reason. Carb retune necessary before any long full throttle runs, please.
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I'd echo the comments above. Easy to keep old saws running compared to modern saws when they get to 10 yr old. No reason for the 038 to go pop, give it a birthday overhaul now (fuel lines, filters, carb overhaul, degradable parts etc), check the tune regularly and look after the fuel you feed it. Job's a good 'un. 361 souldnt be dismissed if youve just gotta have a new one (fewer gizmos compared to later saws), see earlier post for sourcing one.
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Was checking my belief the 391 is a clamshell engine design (it is), came across this: https://fireandsaw.com/stihl-ms391-chainsaw/ doesnt sound too positive... The 251 is clamshell design too. Clamshells are seen as a lower spec and less durable compared to the pro spec saws (like the 038). Expect a shorter lifespan. The ElastoStart feature is a feature to avoid IMO. Is the 038 completely knackered ?
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Two questions: - when it's hot and you have the problem of the blades not moving, does engine rev up ? - if not, is engine trying to increase speed, ie making more noise but not reving (so like a chainsaw with the chain brake on) ?
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Have a look here : https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/130178-makita-9010-rebuild-costparts/page/3/#comment-1963017 The original poster carver83 might be breaking his saw.... or it might be in a corner somewhere awaiting a replacement crank.
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I imagine they'd do a better job if it were a clean sheet of paper task. In reality i expect it has just evolved as time went on... I dont suppose they had a scooby-do '3/8" lo pro' (or 1/4") was going to be a thing back in the day when the first chain came off the manufacturing line. Part numbers etc often throw up coincidental patterns, some useful, some not so....
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Stihl Ms 211 C would not start. Wet sawdust all over the carb.
bmp01 replied to John Rainford's topic in Chainsaws
Ah yeah, that 😃 -
Stihl Ms 211 C would not start. Wet sawdust all over the carb.
bmp01 replied to John Rainford's topic in Chainsaws
Make wood chips not saw dust ! Huh? Well, saw dust has a habit of lingering around the saw, getting sucked in the engine by the flywheel (fan), settling on the air filter etc. Wood chips just get flung out the back and are gone. Maybe more usefully.... Check the O ring on the back of the airbox, possibly nic'd or missing, see picture for location. A leak here will get sawdust to the back of the diaphragm and of course into the airbox. Plus you loose the 'compensator' effect - when the filter gets blocked your fuel mixture will get rich. Cant say I'm overly impressed by seal around the secondary air feed either, bit of a joke really. HTH. -
I agree with this, although saying 181 is a toy is a little harsh. 171 is the toy. Muffler mod helps them out no end. Use a barge pole on the ergo start, primer bulb and toolless tensioner, they'll just give bother at some point. Looked after they last ok, but they are plastic so dont stand up to too much abuse.
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Definitely well hidden.... On the few I've played with they seem bloody sensitive. ..1/8th turn either way and barely run...might just be cheaper end of the range though (Mitox strimmer, Oleo Mac hedge trimmer).
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You mean ive got to read everything in the thread...... damn..... And digest it..... double damn. Nah, its ok - I was attempting (and failing obvs) to draw attention to the fact it was similar design to the other anti-tamper screw head. OP was already on the case, knowing there was an adjuster there as well (post 1).
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Ok, I'll save you a few seconds. ...
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Might be my imagination but it looks like the brass screw in first picture also has a tiny hole, offset from centreline (you need to enlarge picture to see) - meaning it's adjustable with the right tool.
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I read your previous post, expect you're right, no disrespect intended. Was hoping the OP would get to a conclusion and let us know. As you said, new genuine crank is expensive....plus work probably means its a right-off, if it were crankcase bearings only it would relatively cheap on parts at least.
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Stubby, dunno....my understanding was carver83 was referring to the bearing debris that was literally 'on top' of the piston - as seen in his picture. Does look like a spherical ball on the piston until you zoom in, then it looks a bit ragged, more like rolled up cage material.... ? Maybe carver83 will confirm but I'm guessing he's a little out of his comfort zone with this.
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Which one, bottom of connecting rod ? Also know as big end bearing. Or one of the crankcase bearings ? (Big end bearing is allowed to move side to side but not up and down, and obviously if there is stuff missing .....its 'stuffed').
