bmp01
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Everything posted by bmp01
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Ring got forced back into the groove about 1/2 mm, I was surprised there was enough depth in the groove for that to happen.
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New plug is Chinese and healthy, I think it’s the correct spec al-be-it Chinese. But the fact it’s new might be a clue…. Those bits could be the curved electrode of a plug. If any of the dents in the piston or cylinder were curved in shape that would have been conclusive. But the long dents are straight. Also worth mentioning some of the dents are carboned over.
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Good thinking and apologies for not elaborating - who ever investigated it stopped at the filter. Carb wasn’t removed nor was the cylinder. Plenty of undisturbed sawdust and oil there. That’s the right course of action I’m sure. It’s good enough to warrant getting back to full health.
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It’s there, present and correct. (And finally he uses the quote function to reply to the suggestion 🙄 )
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Circlips present and correctly fitted, probably as fitted 30 plus years ago. Carb looks good. Exhaust is cosmetically good condition on outside, all looks carbon grey through the port and exit hole. Something back through the exhaust gets above the piston though.
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Air filter present under the cover but not fitted, just floating about. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone gave up trying to fix it, just threw it back together, top cover screws were loose too. Something dropped down the inlet or fallen off the carb was my first thought - seen this before too. BUT I’m discounting this because there is absolutely no damage below the piston…. not a mark. Am I wrong ? Tillotson carb on it if that helps.
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Let’s see what the Arbtalk brains and experience can come up with. Then we can talk about repair, upgrade piston and cylinders 🤔😊
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I don’t know the answer BTW, it’s a saw I just bought on market place for next to no money and is otherwise good condition. It does have a new Chinese spark plug fitted with signs of combustion …. Talking of which the other thing that looks odd to me is the leading edge of the crankshaft weights that are really black.
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A few bits of extra info… there is no damage below piston, none. The bits I found in the piston and cylinder are ferrous. It’s not the piston ring as that’s in one piece…
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Right then time for a little puzzle…. What broke? Have a look at the pictures for the damage.
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A round file in one of them guide thingees to get the depth right as you’re new to it. And a flat file and guide to take down the raker height. And a pair of reading glasses for me, these days 🥴. Don’t underestimate the benefit of seeing the cutting edge of the tooth in all its glorious detail.
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Ask for copy of work shop manual on Outdoor Power Equipment forum, members there go out of their way to get hold of manuals and share them….there might even be a dedicated section for the purpose, can’t remember. Elec saw might be a challenge but if you don’t ask you don’t get.
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Picture paints a thousand words… impulse line location and swap, have a look here, at 1/4 - 1/3 of the way in.
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I think that was the plan until Openspaceman found that the coil had stopped sparking all together (going by the posts above …)
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Sounds like progress 🙂 thanks for the updates.
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….best on no choke…. What does that mean? I bet it means choke for a dozen pulls, frustration, then trying every other control switch option….🙂🙂🙂 Or am I wrong and it means no choke from first pull? Have you tried 3 pulls on full choke then switching to ‘half choke’ irrespective of it popping on full choke?
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A bit of history with that saw then. Aftermarket coil rings alarm bells for me. What about a strobe light, could you use that at pull cord speed to see where it’s sparking? Does the flywheel have features to pull it off nicely - I expect Spuds workshop manual (posted earlier in the thread) would tell you.
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Maybe but I’ve not owned one so can’t add detail, sorry. Could be a few different flywheels/ coil combinations to mess up timing…. I guess you’ve tried Spuds bend the plug terminal to get the spark to jump bigger gap…establish if coil is really healthy (not just pretending ) ……. heading off piste here aren’t we…..
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That was my understanding too, just wondered if Pleasant knew different….. it was 2023 when that message was posted, I’m sure Esso have had to toe the line….
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The Esso fuel being zero ethanol in the past, is it still true ?
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Nope. Turning the screw clockwise is ‘closing the tap’ - saw will run leaner. In your other comments you said turning screw counter-clockwise helped the saw run better (for a bit) - in this case you were adding extra fuel …. It’s likely the extra fuel is helping compensate for an air leak or an issue with fuel delivery. Be cautious, find the cause for the original failure before it repeats. I know this is repeat advice, Stubby, but…..well… it’s right innit.
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😆 ....sharp intake of breath.... did you just 'dis' a Stihl ? 😨
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Well, saw is fixed with the new carb so its no longer going in the skip - thats a good thing. As for the above - I agree with what youve said. Ref the video of it: - Most saws die on choke with over rich mixture (not all, but most). - Didnt revup properly once throttIe was opened, think it was just spooling down from there with out any more combustion. I dont think it had a full metering chamber of fuel (after runniny on choke), I'd guess its pulling in fuel and air into the metering chamber while on choke and thats why it kept running (on choke) and didnt die (over rich). Its just that on choke theres such a high vacuum on the fuel circuit that even with an air leak there is still enough vacuum to pull some fuel though. Either that or the diaphragm's too stiff or wrong version and just not operating the metering arm. But anyway all somewhat irrelevant now.
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The fact it wasnt running right since the last bad repair hasnt stopped the guy from using it - judging by the chain imprint (wear) in the spur gear teeth. No sense of mechnical sympathy = bigger repair bill.
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I presume it had the rails with it ? Works ok once rails are set up on a straight plank, just a bit of effort to get to that stage.
