bmp01
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Everything posted by bmp01
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Thanks for that, there's one going cheap nearby might be worth a punt then.
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Anyone got a view on the Lidl electric saw ? Think it's sold as 2.4kW which ought to be enough, no idea about chain speed though. Anyone played with one?
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Can you come up with a way to drive the oil pump without the clutch in place or engine running? I'm thinking battery drill and an adapter or rubber drive drum (like the rubber drum you have in a demel kit for the sanding drum). Blank off the outlet to the bar, as youve done already. Spin the pump and look for leak. ...
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Yeah....but.... The outside of the bar is what it is. It's the inside working bearing you need to see but of course you can't. The only thing you might gleen some info from is the sprocket (not the nose assembly but the actual sprocket), so chain off and inspect down to the root of tooth form. Look for coloured steel indicating heat. I'm guessing your planning on running it anyway. 1) Cross cutting would be a safer way to assess the nose sprocket assy and build confidence. 2) Your milling attacement is still too close to the nose bearing IMHO. There is a void just back from the bearing, where the sprocket teeth would run. CIamp into solid metal back from this void.
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Think I'm with adw on this, the metal bits that are made hard in manufacture by heat treatment have most likely been re-heat treated - meaning they will now be softer than they should be and not last. The scortched paint tells where it got hot. The thing to note; its not just hot where it was pinched .... I'd say the (nose) sprocket itself got hot and subsequenly transferred the heat to the near by bar, hence the circular pattern of scorched paint. For the little sprocket to put that amount of heat into the relatively bIg bar I'd say it got very hot. And if the sprocket got hot so did the needle rollers, these are (were ?) both hardened material parts. If you take the chain off and clean / degrease the nose spocket can you see if it has gone blue ? Edit: heat pattern is inboard of the nose sprocket, looks like it matches with where the rolling bearing is....
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Ah, thanks for feedback good to have some run time on it. T'is the final confirmation the gremlins have been driven away.
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So swap the old 'top half' on to the new non purge bulb 'bottom half' ? That'd work I think and not much to go wrong with 'top half'. Think I'd ditch the purge bulb if new was the only option. But just fix the old carb, such a waste and expense to bin it.
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A nice tell-tale, if you are prepared to do a bit of disassembly, is to drip some Redex into the accelerator piston hole behind the throttle shaft and see if you can suck it into the hi speed circuit. I tend to blank off the drillings in the metering chamber with blutack, remove hi speed screw and suck through there via soft tube. Any time you see red coming through the carb you know the accelerator piston seal is leaking.
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No worries, pleased to be able to help
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And so it starts......
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Thanks for posting your findings and well done in doing the comparison between good and bad carbs, you have some certainty there. So, these valves can go wrong in a range from the working parts 'just get stuck' through to parts completely missing. The latter is often the result of high pressure air being blasted through the adjuster screw holes. There's a chance you can resurrect a 'just stuck' valve with carb cleaner, petrol, etc or ultra-sonic cleaning - basically you are just freeing up a tiny disk that 'floats' in the valve. Remove the low speed screw to access.... start with low pressures and progress, not much to loose at this point 😈 😨
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Ok, I hadnt realised that, apologies. The point about the purge bulb pulling in air is still valid - it shouldnt do that. As stated before either hose fit on the purge bulb fittings is loose or the bulb itself is leaking. Always worth fixing things like this before they create a problem or symptoms you don't understand. ...
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I'm confused by your experiment and statement that its not sucking fuel. I see fuel and air bubbles in the return line. So it must be sucking some fuel through the carb, no ? I don't see any air bubbles in the line between carb and purge bulb, is that all fuel? Edit: Looks like 100% fuel in the line between carb and purge bulb. I agree with Openspaceman, you have an air leak around the purge bulb, might just be a loose fitting hose on purge bulb, or a cracked leg on the purge bulb....
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So you've got 2 fuel circuits in the carb, a low speed and a high speed. Low speed circuit is fed via the bung in your blue circle and there is a little flap check valve on t'side. High speed circuit is fed via the small hole below the main jet / check valve assy. If you have a piece of small dia hose, preferably soft silicone, you can hold one end over the entry hole and blow / suck to confirm the check valve operation. Adjustment screws need to be NOT bottomed out. Low speed circuit will flow a lot less than the high circuit....
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...this was a running saw... Not a nice running saw but still a runner.
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No it isn't. I didn't spot this from the pull cord compression test, held its own for over a minute. Compression test was 135 psi - low for sure but I passed it off in my mind because I had to use 10mm adapter for the gauge. Aw well, you win some, just not this one.
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I was just going off this. ... post 1
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Sorry for the delay, that 201 (up the page somewhere) isn't going to run right for a little time yet. Needs a piston that measures a bit more than 39.70mm across the skirt. Probably explains why the idle screw had to be wound in some to get it to run. Cylinder has cleaned up surpisingly well.
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Yeah, block them both off if you have concerns about the bulb. It's not necessary to run the saw. If the one way valve in the bulb isn't working 100% then the carb sees tank pressure which definitely upsets the apple cart. Also, just check that release of tank pressure you mentioned in post 1 was positive pressure and not vacuum.... hard to tell difference in sound between gas coming out or going in. Of course, if the fuel cap popped out ....
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....time to f'kin learn then... 😈 It isn't hard or any sort of magic by the way. I understand there are plenty of videos on that well known video site.
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Why would you not adjust the carb if the saw needs it ? You might be missing out on some of the potential performance gain... (And avoid seizing the thing....)
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T'is a risk. Care to share details of std seal, is there a part no ? I've looked on 200t parts list but no joy there.
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Yeah, I agree regular sizes would be preferable.... the original oring is a little over 1.0mm section I think (hard to be sure it's degraded and changed shape etc). Wouldn't be hard to machine up a new piston to take 1.0mm section Oring but at that stage might as well just buy new from Stihl.
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Thank you ! Ever tried replacing just the O ring ? Piston groove: Dia = 3.17, Width = 1.20 Bore in carb 5.0 O ring with ID 3.0, Section 1.1 Viton material would be about right.... probably unobtanium.
