bmp01

Here's what i do, generally works for me, probably more definitive guides available elsewhere . .. Low speeds first, I generally start meddling shortly after the saw has started and assume fine tuning might be necessary at later date. -Idle speed set a little below where chain rotates. -Adjust low speed screw to give highest idle (steps of 1/8 turn initially, pause at each step for a few seconds for speed to stabilise). Then richen up by 1/8 - 1/4 turn, speed drops a little and often not quite as smooth but the saw will be more responsive here. -Reset idle speed. You can check saw response at this stage, may need to go slightly richer if the saw doesn't pick up cleanly. Make sure the saw is reasonably warmed up before giving it too much grief with the high speed adjustment. High speed, no load, chain fitted and tension adjusted correctly, the saw should be 4 stroking and sound pretty rough, you do NOT want it to run smooth and scream, that is asking for trouble. The previous Youtube video is a good one to learn what 4 stroking sounds like. -I start deliberately rich, hold the throttle open for a second or so but no more, determine the 4 stroking, adjust leaner 1/8 turn and retest. Continue until the 4 stroking is only just there. Repeat the low speed settings, they won't be far out, stick with a slightly rich setting. Repeat check of saw response. Repeat the high speed if you made changes to the low speed - confirm its 4 stroking. Test cut in wood, you're looking for the 4 stroking to disappear as the cutting load brings the saws speed down slightly. Easiest way to listen for this - during the cut, continue to hold the throttle open but just lift the saw away from the cut. Speed will go up and the 4 stoking should come back, sounds horrible ! If in doubt richen it up a little. Saws with speed limiting coils must not be tuned in this way, safest is to use a fast response tachometer. Saws with the strato engines are also less easy to tune by ear in my limited experience. HTH, bmp01

+1 Seems the only sensible solution to stupid tamper proof screws. P.I.T.A screws ?

Hello, Worth a check to see if the carb has been assembled correctly - might have been assembled wrong before you got it ? Just thinking, using choke you are pulling the fuel through the carb with the depression of the induction stroke. .... Off choke you are reliant on the pump in the carb and the metering chamber working correctly. I had the same problem, had me stumped for a bit, found the metering chamber diaphragm upside down, so it didn't open the metering valve. Sadly, it was a self induced problem Good luck. bmp01

Thanks for reply. Agree 100% - but (apart from 4 meteor pistons and 1 golf piston) thats based on what i have read here, a lot of it from you :biggrin: Contacted both sellers, Pistons from Tesgol are made by VEC, India. Danikrop didn't disclose manufacturer but said they are made in Taiwan. I'd be happy with Meteor or Episan but these are not available to my knowledge. Didn't like the Golf piston (for husky 136). I have no idea about the above two. .....was hoping someone on here had some direct experience ??? Thanks,

Hello chaps, Newbie to the forum here. First saw was a 028 Wood Boss bought at auction twenty something years ago. Now i have more saws than i know what do with - all second-hand and broken when purchased. Fixing them usually involves improving on the std spec by increased compression, exhaust mods etc. Anyway, latest broken saw is an MS211 in cosmetically nice condition, low hours, 140 psi cylinder pressure but.....exhaust off and piston is part seized. Probably old fuel. To the point - I was going to fit a Meteor piston to the saw but can't find one. So does anyone have any experience with the MS211 pistons that are available eg from dandrikop or tesgol. Or any others that have proved reliable? Thanks for your help.