bmp01

Well. .... my first assumption was 'no' You wouldn't change the spec that much and keep the same model number, surely. But i googled MS230 Owners manual - there's usually a spec page at the back of the manual. Hopefully I've managed to attach a screen dump of the spec page. Sure enough there are 2 bore sizes, 40.0 and 42.5 so the answer is 'yes'. Time to have a chat with your supplier? For what is worth; The A stamp I understand to be a tolerance band based on the nominal size. It allows the manufacturer to match up piston and barrel size with out making every batch of parts to a very tight tolerance. So for example if the batch of barrels is 0.010mm bigger than the nominal size, then pistons oversized by 0.010 are used in engine assembly using those barrels. That said, i don't think i have ever come across anything other than 'A' graded. HTH. bmp01

Old engine oil is ..... and for all the reasons mentioned above i dont think i would want to use old engine oil either. Old gearbox oil on the hand isn't (carcinogenic) as there are no products of combustion contaminating it. I raised the question about 'gearbox' oil... Not really of much interest I agree, I only raised the question because the viscosity is similar to bespoke chain oil (unlike engine oil). I'll try it at some point. bmp01

A bit off subject but as we are on different oils, I've got 3Ĺ of used gearbox oil, seems a waste not to use it for something. ... anyone any experience? It's pretty viscous but probably in between regular chain and engine oil, approx SAE 90. No idea if it has any anti fling properties. Probably not good for the environment. Thanks, bmp01

Yep, it is , so it is...

Nope, thats wrong. .. Got a little bit more info. .. Its ARG 6224 (not 4224, which is what i had interpreted too). Goggling ARG 6224 gets a perfect match with a secondhand. .... wait for it.... Sovereign (thats homebase isnt it?) on that auction site, link below. I don't know if that means it's made under licence or more likely a just a rip off of the Komatsu Zenoha. Plastic around the bar nut looks sore/brittle on the eBay one, so that probably explains the need for the alloy plate around the bar mounting. Thought i should update the thread. But all of a sudden I've lost all interest in this SOVEREIGN - USED PETROL CHAINSAW ,WITH 16" - 40 CM GUIDE BAR | eBay

Looks like a good match to me - different colour scheme and probably a later model but very close. Komatoso Zenoah brand it is then. Well done and thank you bmp01

Yes, i have asked for better pictures and waited, and waited....then i thought someone here would probably just know. Grey throttle trigger and safety must be a clue. I wondered about Efco but red controls on the 136 model. Thanks,

Hello, Not sure if this is good practice. .. if not I'll request the thread is deleted. What's this saw ? Obviously too much plastic. But I was interested to see what looks like an alloy plate to bolt the bar to, might be the plastics weren't up to it when it was made. Certainly not the cheapest way to do it though, so at least some attempt at making a more durable product. Thanks, bmp01

Come on then, spill the beans, what was wrong with it ? Or have you been distracted with tuning your other saws Let's us know. .. bmp01

It's been 3 months, nearly there then. ...

Original post says "Have used my 028AV over about 10 years for domestic tree felling and woodcutting. " = Weekend Warrior. Nowt wrong with his choice of saw for his use, 028 He is an engineer, I'm sure he'll get some satisfaction from fixing the thing

Thats a detailed analysis. But have you done Spuds suggestion in post 10 - I think its a very good test to answer some of your questions regarding fuel supply to carb. Start with clean, empty carb on the bench. Refit. Turn engine over - with out choke. Remove carb. Inspect for fuel in pump and metering chambers. If no fuel, you have the answer to your question. 30 mins tops. Ditto with my suggestion above. Have you checked the tank vent hose. Blocked vent would surely allow engine to run normally for a few minutes while the tank gets into depression, then no fuel. Another suggestion, you may have reblocked the filters in the carbs again. I have suffered with my 028 with a mystery gunge / slime that reappeared after the carb had been thoroughly cleaned. PM me regarding tech manual if you want, but the answers here will teach you more:001_smile: And please keep us posted when you find solution. bmp01

Fuel tank vent blocked causing vacuum in tank? Unscrew the fuel cap to vent the tank.... will saw restart? IIRC Fuel tank vent hose has two grub screws in the line with a jet sized hole through each, its situated behind the air filter. bmp01

Here's what i do, generally works for me, probably more definitive guides available elsewhere . .. Low speeds first, I generally start meddling shortly after the saw has started and assume fine tuning might be necessary at later date. -Idle speed set a little below where chain rotates. -Adjust low speed screw to give highest idle (steps of 1/8 turn initially, pause at each step for a few seconds for speed to stabilise). Then richen up by 1/8 - 1/4 turn, speed drops a little and often not quite as smooth but the saw will be more responsive here. -Reset idle speed. You can check saw response at this stage, may need to go slightly richer if the saw doesn't pick up cleanly. Make sure the saw is reasonably warmed up before giving it too much grief with the high speed adjustment. High speed, no load, chain fitted and tension adjusted correctly, the saw should be 4 stroking and sound pretty rough, you do NOT want it to run smooth and scream, that is asking for trouble. The previous Youtube video is a good one to learn what 4 stroking sounds like. -I start deliberately rich, hold the throttle open for a second or so but no more, determine the 4 stroking, adjust leaner 1/8 turn and retest. Continue until the 4 stroking is only just there. Repeat the low speed settings, they won't be far out, stick with a slightly rich setting. Repeat check of saw response. Repeat the high speed if you made changes to the low speed - confirm its 4 stroking. Test cut in wood, you're looking for the 4 stroking to disappear as the cutting load brings the saws speed down slightly. Easiest way to listen for this - during the cut, continue to hold the throttle open but just lift the saw away from the cut. Speed will go up and the 4 stoking should come back, sounds horrible ! If in doubt richen it up a little. Saws with speed limiting coils must not be tuned in this way, safest is to use a fast response tachometer. Saws with the strato engines are also less easy to tune by ear in my limited experience. HTH, bmp01

+1 Seems the only sensible solution to stupid tamper proof screws. P.I.T.A screws ?

Hello, Worth a check to see if the carb has been assembled correctly - might have been assembled wrong before you got it ? Just thinking, using choke you are pulling the fuel through the carb with the depression of the induction stroke. .... Off choke you are reliant on the pump in the carb and the metering chamber working correctly. I had the same problem, had me stumped for a bit, found the metering chamber diaphragm upside down, so it didn't open the metering valve. Sadly, it was a self induced problem Good luck. bmp01

Thanks for reply. Agree 100% - but (apart from 4 meteor pistons and 1 golf piston) thats based on what i have read here, a lot of it from you :biggrin: Contacted both sellers, Pistons from Tesgol are made by VEC, India. Danikrop didn't disclose manufacturer but said they are made in Taiwan. I'd be happy with Meteor or Episan but these are not available to my knowledge. Didn't like the Golf piston (for husky 136). I have no idea about the above two. .....was hoping someone on here had some direct experience ??? Thanks,

Hello chaps, Newbie to the forum here. First saw was a 028 Wood Boss bought at auction twenty something years ago. Now i have more saws than i know what do with - all second-hand and broken when purchased. Fixing them usually involves improving on the std spec by increased compression, exhaust mods etc. Anyway, latest broken saw is an MS211 in cosmetically nice condition, low hours, 140 psi cylinder pressure but.....exhaust off and piston is part seized. Probably old fuel. To the point - I was going to fit a Meteor piston to the saw but can't find one. So does anyone have any experience with the MS211 pistons that are available eg from dandrikop or tesgol. Or any others that have proved reliable? Thanks for your help.