bmp01

Clamping the chain like this (on the side faces of the drive link) that ought to stop the chain from rocking in the direction you file it (I mean across the guide bar). It annoys me how much the chain wriggles about when filing, especially on the fiddly chains or worn bars. I like the idea for loose chains but not sure how many times I'd pull a chain off assembled saw to use the cIamp set up.

Blimey, this thread has taken a weird turn along the way.... We're good. You know the way it is, stuff that makes sense in yer head doesn't always make it onto the page in the most comprehensible fashioned. Out of respect for yourself and other readers thought it best to make it clearer...ish. Wonder if OP has fixed his saw ? Probably wondering what the heck he has wandered into.....

Just incase we're not all on the same page. .... The purge bulb pulls fuel into the carb only. You'll not see fuel in the engine until you pull the engine over. So whats next... If you can see fuel returning to tank as you press the purge bulb then you have fuel in the carb and in the right place, ie the metering side of the carb (assuming pipes are correct).Turning engine over with the choke on at this stage will then get fuel into the cylinder. Most likely too much fuel even if there is an air Ieak. Impulse line wont have much effect at this stage, thats only useful after engine is up and running. If the plug gets properly wet you’ve flooded it, dry the plug, pull engine over with plug out etc. I'd go for 1/2 a teaspoon of fuel down the plug hole, plug back in, choke off and see if it will cough. Repeat. If it coughs or runs at all, its 99% certain a fuelling issue. Amendment to my post up the page, shown in Italics, play spot the difference adw - ok now?

Just incase we're not all on the same page. .... The purge bulb pulls fuel into the carb and no further. You'll not see fuel in the engine until you pull the engine over. But if you can see fuel returning to tank as you press the purge bulb then you have fuel in the carb and in the right place, ie the metering side of the carb (assuming pipes are correct). Turning engine over with the choke on will get fuel into the cylinder, most likely too much fuel even if there is an air Ieak. Impulse line wont have much effect at this stage, thats only after its up and running. If the plug gets properly wet youve flooded it, dry the plug, pull engine over with plug still out etc. I'd go for 1/2 a teaspoon of fuel down the plug hole, plug back in, choke off and see if it will cough. Repeat. If it coughs or runs at all, its 99% certain a fuelling issue.

They had their own set of problems. A well named gas company ran them at their research station on natural gas for an intended combined heat and power package. Reason being natural gas fuelled IC engines had issues with valve seat and stem wear at the time. Mechanically the rotor tip seals didnt last and the race track shaped rotor housing got all lumpy and bumpy. Apart from that the combustion chamber was a bit rubbish, emissions and oil consumption poor. Mazda have given it a good go too but clearly they haven't taken over the world with it. Good power though so all good for short life race engine.

You risk undermining the surrounding plating though. Especially as the plating adhesion doesnt look too clever - there might be the odd crevice for acid to get into. Bit of a risky game altogether really, a bit more loose plating and that'll be another piston gone, possible bottom end damage and another rebuild. Do Meteor make a cylinders for these ?

Ouch, thats not a great experience, painful even. I wonder if the "saw ran great" was too high max engine speed, was it 4 stroking out of the cut ? Difficult to say now I guess, unless you were in the habit of checking it routinely before it broke.

I think you need to make use of differential expansion, ie. heat the assembly up. Whats going on here is the casing will expand more than the bearing so as assy gets hot the interference between parts is reducing. The pullers make for a quicker route, heating and all that waiting is slower. Heat the assembly in an oven to 150 deg C, (maybe a tad more), let it get hot through then give the crank a clout. Plan it out before you start, have everything ready, support the crankcase around bearing housing and use soft headed hammer or a piece of aluminium to protect the crank.

Outdoor power eqpt website has a manuals section ....

What's to decide ? OEM cylinder is best option, reuse the cylinder unless its clearly damaged beyond salvaging. The only way you'll know is by giving it a go but I'd guess that'll clean up. Many posts on here regardIng cylinder cleaning, best to do some searching.... Edit: lucky bu88er saving an 880 from the skip.

Same. There was a guy selling multiple. Happens regularly. They are used tachs from dealers workshops being swapped out for new as batteries are not replacable .... think that was the story. Had mine for 5'ish years, still good.

Part worn chain coz that is what is on the ol' 028AVS, I know there's a vice in the picture but the vice is holding the bar/saw. I believe you are spot on with that explanation of used chains, that and the tooth height gets lower with wear so saw might pull a few more pm ? Ok, confession time - I got muddled with this thread and the bar & chain 261 upgrade thread that Trailoftears kindly posted - hence my comments of 3/8 picco chain speed up the page. Also I was off doing a comparison of chain 'kerf' width for 0.325 x 0.063 and the 3/8 x1.3 (picco). Sadly I dont have a 0.325 x 0.050 bar/chain. I might as well add the 3/8 x 1.3 picture....here you go....

Take this with a pinch of salt, its not the whole answer because the teeth will be pulled every which way when cutting. For reference the steel ruler against chain are 1.07mm thick each.

Sometimes you've just got to go and look at stuff....

Hard wood is still 'harder' to cut meaning you need more engine torque to maintain engine speed. Just like you need more engine torque to run a longer bar if its cutting over full length, or conversely you can run a 25 cc saw to cut 3-4 " branches. Its all a compromise....

Make the assumption engine speed is the same. Chain speed is faster by the ratio of diameters.... Then accept that in reality the engine cant necessariy provide enough torque to keep engine speed the same. But you'll have an overall gain in chain speed. Slight narrower kerf will help keep engine speed up.

And what about the outside diameter ?

Sounds like we are on different wavelengths. ... ? The teeth, left hand and right hand are separate items attached to their drive links on opposite sides of the drive link...

Trailoftears - do you have the 2 rim sprickets to hand, the 7 tooth 0.325 and the 7 tooth 3/8 lopro ?what can you tell us about the outside diameters?

Cutter is attached to the drive link though, making the drive link thinner moves the cutter towards centreline of the chain ... small difference to kerf but still .....

And watch out for the bar mount detail - I think the MS250 has 3005 mount type and MS261 has the 3003 type. Or put it another way the bar in this kit will a 'cock in a sock' fit on the MS250 bar studs, you'd need spacer to locate it properly. Please do check this, I'm not 100% sure.

Top marks for sticking with it, don't expect you'd get a better understanding with dealer investigation. Think you've shown the engine is sound now - it's not capable of random behaviour.

I dont see how an internal engine fault can come and go so I'm gonna say there's a fault in the in the pull start mech too ? Don't suppose you've changed starter cord in both saws have you ? Just thinking dodgy cord might be bunching up to be too big diameter to go through the hole in the starter mech ? Quick diagnostic test and get a friend to help... Pull it over until you get a hard to turn over event, and while keeping tension on the cord remove the plug. Does it suddenly free up ???

Got 2 x 25 L of apple juice and 6 L of pear juice in the fermenting barrels. All left to go the natural way so fingers crossed we dont end up with vinegar. Only planned to do 25 L, which is kind of a days playing for me, but I added drain plates to the press which helped productivity so felt it needed a second go to confirm inprovement. Does get a bit much after a while though.

Yes. And have a look at the plug and see if its sopping wet, likely from what you say. That bit of info will point you in a better direction for how to start it consistantly from cold .... maybe you pull it over on choke for 2 or 3 pulls only, irrespective of whether it coughs or not....