bmp01

I've edited your pictures with red circle to show where the impulse signal is going through to the carb. So the impulse line needs to connect to engine side of the orange plastic, which is what Chris stated 2 posts back....

As per adw's question a few posts above how does the impulse signal connect to the carb on the MS261 ? You need an impulse pressure signal to make the pump side of the carb work. The pressure pulses causes the membrane to move in and out ---> fuel is pumped through the one way flapper valves. Worth noting: -Engine will run on choke without the impulse pressure signal because the closed choke causes sufficient vacuum to suck fuel directly from tank. -Engine will often run at wide open throttle without the impulse signal because the high engine speed often causes sufficuent vacuum in the carb ventui to suck fuel directly from tank. -Most other scenarios, no impulse pressure signal usually means engine wont run.

I think the blue ones, which are fairly recent, are already assembled ? Each 'new' model they bring out is supposely better than the previous, but old models were pretty dire so might not be saying much. I've not touched one so that's now third hand reporting 😃

If you get to parking it I'd be interested in buying it, I'd like to see the 'naff' quality of a 'Farmertec' kit saw for myself. Reasonably confident it will run by the time I've finished with it, might even run quite well. PM me if this of interest.

Going back to why saw won't fire even when you've added fuel; Have you swapped in a good spark plug ? Have you tried getting the ignition system to jump a big plug gap ? It's sometimes the case the ignition appears to work with the standard plug out of the engine but once plug is under pressure in the cylinder it falls over. WRT timing - what matters is piston position when flywheel is passing the coil. There will be variations in coil design and in the advance curves within the electronics of the coil but you'll get some idea if things are about right if you compare this one with your 260. Good luck.

Well this is a fun thread. There's only one rule - you have to let us know when you get it running and report on your findings.

Personally I've never seen any trouble with bearings from running wrong oil/petrol mix. Plenty of piston problems of course but even those saws that seize pistons, more often than not bearings are ok after a good clean. First thing to go with wrong oil mix is the piston - be interesting with this one to pull the exhaust off and take a look at piston skirt and piston rings.

That last bit might undo your plan....not sure a 6T rim sprocket exists. Dont forget the outside diameter of the rim sprocket is proportional to number of teeth - that's to say a 6 T rim might be too small to function on the splined clutch drum. Happy to be proved wrong.....

Thanks for the tips. I can feel some repair work coming on. I've got a busted pole saw head in need of fixing too.

I agree with Ramsey's experience, toolless tensioner is simply inadequate, I've dug into it in the past to look for a solution .... failed. The standard single bolt / nut is just fine though. Good news is you can sell the secondhand toolless tensioner parts on ebay 😃

Cranks not rotating though when youre pulling the chain round by hand. Points to eccentricity in the clutch housing or rim sprocket. Or the interface between the two - the rim sprocket is a loose fit on the clutch so it will 'walk' around on the drive teeth as the chain is pulled round by hand (probably locks up in one position when the engine is turning it over at speed).

Clamping the chain like this (on the side faces of the drive link) that ought to stop the chain from rocking in the direction you file it (I mean across the guide bar). It annoys me how much the chain wriggles about when filing, especially on the fiddly chains or worn bars. I like the idea for loose chains but not sure how many times I'd pull a chain off assembled saw to use the cIamp set up.

Blimey, this thread has taken a weird turn along the way.... We're good. You know the way it is, stuff that makes sense in yer head doesn't always make it onto the page in the most comprehensible fashioned. Out of respect for yourself and other readers thought it best to make it clearer...ish. Wonder if OP has fixed his saw ? Probably wondering what the heck he has wandered into.....

Just incase we're not all on the same page. .... The purge bulb pulls fuel into the carb only. You'll not see fuel in the engine until you pull the engine over. So whats next... If you can see fuel returning to tank as you press the purge bulb then you have fuel in the carb and in the right place, ie the metering side of the carb (assuming pipes are correct).Turning engine over with the choke on at this stage will then get fuel into the cylinder. Most likely too much fuel even if there is an air Ieak. Impulse line wont have much effect at this stage, thats only useful after engine is up and running. If the plug gets properly wet you’ve flooded it, dry the plug, pull engine over with plug out etc. I'd go for 1/2 a teaspoon of fuel down the plug hole, plug back in, choke off and see if it will cough. Repeat. If it coughs or runs at all, its 99% certain a fuelling issue. Amendment to my post up the page, shown in Italics, play spot the difference adw - ok now?

Just incase we're not all on the same page. .... The purge bulb pulls fuel into the carb and no further. You'll not see fuel in the engine until you pull the engine over. But if you can see fuel returning to tank as you press the purge bulb then you have fuel in the carb and in the right place, ie the metering side of the carb (assuming pipes are correct). Turning engine over with the choke on will get fuel into the cylinder, most likely too much fuel even if there is an air Ieak. Impulse line wont have much effect at this stage, thats only after its up and running. If the plug gets properly wet youve flooded it, dry the plug, pull engine over with plug still out etc. I'd go for 1/2 a teaspoon of fuel down the plug hole, plug back in, choke off and see if it will cough. Repeat. If it coughs or runs at all, its 99% certain a fuelling issue.

They had their own set of problems. A well named gas company ran them at their research station on natural gas for an intended combined heat and power package. Reason being natural gas fuelled IC engines had issues with valve seat and stem wear at the time. Mechanically the rotor tip seals didnt last and the race track shaped rotor housing got all lumpy and bumpy. Apart from that the combustion chamber was a bit rubbish, emissions and oil consumption poor. Mazda have given it a good go too but clearly they haven't taken over the world with it. Good power though so all good for short life race engine.

You risk undermining the surrounding plating though. Especially as the plating adhesion doesnt look too clever - there might be the odd crevice for acid to get into. Bit of a risky game altogether really, a bit more loose plating and that'll be another piston gone, possible bottom end damage and another rebuild. Do Meteor make a cylinders for these ?

Ouch, thats not a great experience, painful even. I wonder if the "saw ran great" was too high max engine speed, was it 4 stroking out of the cut ? Difficult to say now I guess, unless you were in the habit of checking it routinely before it broke.

I think you need to make use of differential expansion, ie. heat the assembly up. Whats going on here is the casing will expand more than the bearing so as assy gets hot the interference between parts is reducing. The pullers make for a quicker route, heating and all that waiting is slower. Heat the assembly in an oven to 150 deg C, (maybe a tad more), let it get hot through then give the crank a clout. Plan it out before you start, have everything ready, support the crankcase around bearing housing and use soft headed hammer or a piece of aluminium to protect the crank.

Outdoor power eqpt website has a manuals section ....

What's to decide ? OEM cylinder is best option, reuse the cylinder unless its clearly damaged beyond salvaging. The only way you'll know is by giving it a go but I'd guess that'll clean up. Many posts on here regardIng cylinder cleaning, best to do some searching.... Edit: lucky bu88er saving an 880 from the skip.

Same. There was a guy selling multiple. Happens regularly. They are used tachs from dealers workshops being swapped out for new as batteries are not replacable .... think that was the story. Had mine for 5'ish years, still good.

Part worn chain coz that is what is on the ol' 028AVS, I know there's a vice in the picture but the vice is holding the bar/saw. I believe you are spot on with that explanation of used chains, that and the tooth height gets lower with wear so saw might pull a few more pm ? Ok, confession time - I got muddled with this thread and the bar & chain 261 upgrade thread that Trailoftears kindly posted - hence my comments of 3/8 picco chain speed up the page. Also I was off doing a comparison of chain 'kerf' width for 0.325 x 0.063 and the 3/8 x1.3 (picco). Sadly I dont have a 0.325 x 0.050 bar/chain. I might as well add the 3/8 x 1.3 picture....here you go....

Take this with a pinch of salt, its not the whole answer because the teeth will be pulled every which way when cutting. For reference the steel ruler against chain are 1.07mm thick each.

Sometimes you've just got to go and look at stuff....