bmp01

Thanks for the extra info openspaceman. Seems like fuel line "rot" is the common theme. I wonder if it had some nasty fuel left in it, maybe followed up with alcylate fuel when it wouldn't run right...

Well, I try to be (accurate). Thought this was going to be something juicy, a little bit out of the norm. Could have gone the replacement carb, chinese vs genuine discussion ....again 😁 But anyway it's fixed so that's a good outcome, well done openspaceman 👍

Opensaceman you are quite right in your thinking - there is nothing to stop air being drawn in via the low speed fuel circuit. But it should be a small proportion of what the purge bulb pulls through. It's easier to draw fuel (assuming the fuel filter, carb micro filter, metering valve are flowing freely ) compared to drawing are through the tiny jets in low speed circuit. Worth noting: - the one way valve in the high speed jet stops air being drawn in via the high speed jet, (one way valves fail occasionally but pretty rare). - there is possibility of drawing air from the dreaded accelerator pump circuit (accelerator pump o ring will wear out dependant on mileage). - leaking metering diaphragm is strong candidate (you say gasket was split so I'd say that was your problem). HTH with diagnosis.

Thank you. Got a couple of the progressive gauges a while back, I'll have to find time and a candidate chain (1/2 to 2/3 used) for a test.

That's exactly what I do (and expect what 99% of folk who use a gauge / experience do)..... But that ain't the progressive gauge thingee that Stere is refering to: where the depth gauge is (progressively) reduced a lot further as the tooth length reduces. Well, that's if I've understood Stere correctly ???

Are you talking about one of these steel gauges Stubby ? Might as well try to get something useful out of this thread, clearly the other numbers are gibberish.

Efco have been around a good while. Think it was a 936 (small cc's) I fixed up, lots of plastic, it had hung together until the piston ring had worn out. Bar mount plastic was pretty sore by then but bar and chain were also fubarred, short on maintenance, high on abuse sort-a-thing.

Mr Fish, have you really ground the "rakers" or "depth gauges" to 44 thou, 50 thou and 55 thou (of an inch) below the tooth cutting edge ? As stated earlier in the thread 25 thou is the nearly universal number.... None of this is new stuff, its 'run of the mill' chain maintenance, best go look at some general chain sharpening guides.

That's a coincidence, came across that again just recently. Oval pistons, 8 valves per cylinder. Honda made a very tasty looking replica road bike in limited numbers off of the back of that. .. thought road bike was bigger displacement 750cc ? I guess thats where the similarities with this story end though, the collectability and price of those bikes is sky high.

Now, pictures are for illustration purposes. That dont mean I'm in favour of risking your saw for an experiment but I sense your gonna try anyway, so if they help you decide one way or t'other that's fine. Wonder if the chain will clear the casing ? Cough, cough, (cue muffled voice).... hyper skip chain..... 😈

And a few more, K095 bar on top. Last picture is the D009 bar marked up with K095 hole positions (for the bar "tapers" equal case).

As requested, more pictures to fuel the fire .... This one with the K095 bar underneith, not sure that's of much use.

Couple of pictures for you to consider, please note these are well worn bars. Both Husky bars, from a 357XP, 390XP which I think makes them K095 and D009 mount respectively. Looks like oil feed hole and tensioner holes will need some 'thought' if you pursue the idea. In the K095 overlayed on the D009 picture you can just see the oil feed hole in the D009....

As far the stove is concerned, what about a sheet of vermiculite ? A bit fragile maybe? Was thinking further insulation around the fire box could improve combustion temperatures for a better burn. ... same as the layer of ash principle.

I'd imagine a piece of steel might conduct the heat away a bit better than stone, might find it never hats up more than a few degrees. Still, the principle is right, steel will expand with heat, stone or brick won't go the same degree so might be an issue. I've often wondered what happens to the long steels over multiple glass windows....

Spuds description of how carb works is great explanation of why the saw runs out of fuel off choke. I'd consider the pump side of the carb might be dubious too. So even if the metering side of the carb works and the needle valve opens, could be no fuel arrives. In that case it maybe the pump itself is knackered or the impulse line driving the pump is leaking. The 2 saws at once is either a coincidence or the rubber parts in the carbs have both been affected by bad fuel at some stage and its coming to light now further down line (so it's not down to the current good fuel). Treat them as individal carb problems and see if there is a common fault afterwards.

You are saying the saws flood by them selves and before you even pull the start cord ? I 'd wager you are at the stage the dealer didn't know what to look for. As above the metering valve and the metering arm must be the culprit, t'is the only control on fuel delivery to the engine. Spuds comment about leaving in a hot car relates to the pressure rise in the fuel tank - what is important here is that the metering valve can be over powered if inlet pressure is high enough, somewhere in the region of 2 bar (30ish Psi) will do it. If you have the pressure test kit, apply pressure to the carb fuel inlet and look for a leak at low pressures 7 psi and secondly increase pressure to see when the metering valve is lifted off its seat. Treat it with care though if you get to 2 bar / 30 psi that's good enough. Worth noting: just increasing the spring rate or lowering the metering arm could fix your problem but it might result in poor engine response from low speed. And that might give a clue about how Makita set up their saws. ..

You've read the entire Internet ? Respect..... 😀😀

It's an professional arborist website / forum, have your say, but no point getting embroiled with it, you can't win. This type of subject will always end up in the same place - for a reason, there is no right or wrong answer. But as non-pro's you and I are guests here, best to roll with it. BTW unusual user name, ABBS mod?

Out of 100 ****************wits how many of them identify themselves as a ****************wit do you reckon ? About zero would be my guess....

Yes, almost certainly quicker and more effective than the near useless devices fitted to DIY market saws. Professional saws already a step up from DIY saws but again I'd expect electronic device would be quicker to react compared to mechanical system. Worth noting a correction to your understanding : The existing chain brake (if operating correctly) should automatically operate under various conditions, ie. the "kickback" senario. The user does not manually apply the brake in this case. It is the inertia of the chain brake lever that resists movement while the nose of the guidebar (and chain) accelerates quickly past the object it has "snagged" on. You need to find a youtube video or animation to understand fully. I'd suggest the main cause of injury will be down to lack of experience, no training, no appreciation of danger, stupidity etc. People who find chainsaws a "more welcoming tool" are already in a more dangerous place than those who don't !

You've tried a new plug already ? The ignition system needs to produce a spark that can jump the plug gap in the cylinder under compression (obvs!). In fresh air that means it needs to jump a bigger gap, say 3 - 4 mm. With out appropriate kit, Spud's advice seen on here many a time - is to take a plug and bend the outer electrode to increase the plug gap to a couple of mm. Cobble together a setup that holds the plug against the cylinder and pull it over on the starter cord and look for spark. Worth checking the coil to flywheel gap and plug lead condition too.

Yes it's worth it if the rest of the saw is pristine. No its not worth it if the saw looks like it's had a hard life and is likely to be a dog, no matter what you're told. My point is we know nothing about its condition, how do we judge it ? You've got to gauge the saws condition from scratch, the seller's capabity to mend it (maybe they are hopeless) and their honesty with what they've told you so far. If you're not handy with spanners and not prepared to spend a chunk of money on it, the deal is a punt at best.

Quite possibly. Hard to tell from here but it sorta sounds like you might have flooded the thing. A short run, overly rich (too much fuel) might make restarting difficult, especially if you used choke thinking it had cooled a bit. Regarding tuning - assuming the Chinese carb has 3 adjustment screws (low speed mixture, high speed mixture and idle speed) and assuming you can get it started again (ref Peatff's post) then try adjusting the low speed mixture screw and remember you can always get back to where you began by screwing it back in and then out to the 1 1/4 turns. So what you are looking for initially is the highest idle speed. Once you've found that check for good pick up from idle speed with out the saw stumbling / bogging down. Couple of notes: - small changes (1/8th turn) and pause for a few seconds to let the speed stabilise -winding screws in (clockwise) reduces fuel flow, out increases fuel flow. - engine sould run smooth when the fuel mixture is right. -if you are a long way out (eg close to engine stalling) it will respond immediately to improved fuelling. You've done the hard part, no harm in having a play.

You've adjusted the new carb at low speed and high speed ? Chinese carb ?