Rough Hewn

Yes, replace it for a big job and have at least a couple spare if you can. Try it out on your own logs at some point. Shouldn’t be an issue unless you notice excessive scoring. How many teeth missing,which sides, how far apart? Full comp,skip? [emoji106]

One thing about using a smaller file, It can be used to dig into the side plate increasing the “hook” of the tooth. This can increase the risk of kickback. [emoji106]

It’s the height of the teeth. Most Oregon chain teeth are minutely taller than a stihl chain. That’s why Oregon often reccomend a larger file size than other brands. However there is a debate about reducing file size when the cutter has been reduced ie:50%. As the teeth aren’t flat but slope down to the rear. For further reading have a look at the advanced chain sharpening thread on arbtalk. [emoji106]

Is the oil pump slit lined up with the bar hole? Have you changed bar? Have you tried removing bar and running machine to see if oil is pumping? [emoji106]

That’s the issue! Modern stuff is really badly made. For a pound at your local car boot you can get a nice old head. Yes it’s an art form handling axes. (I just push a stick through)[emoji848] That’s why they’re so cheap. The way I see it though is hand tools never need petrol or charging. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

I sell all of it[emoji106]

Bit more strawberry tree, the union above the main trunk section, small rot pocket. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

That’s just the ones with handles.🤣 Got boxes of old axe heads and other beautiful old hand tools. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Different tools for different jobs. My bill hooks are razor, only use a round file or whetstone. Couple of gentle licks and it’s lethal. Holds an edge really well. My axes though are a total mix up. Hatchets for kindling blunt. Selection of very small axes sharp Carpentry hatchet sharp Side axe sharp Medium axe razor Medium Forest axe sharp Maul blunt Big axe blunt Felling axe 1 sharp Felling axe 2 sharp Big broad head sharp By sharp I mean like a kitchen knife which will slice tomatoes without squashing. My only axe which is scary sharp is for woodworking. [emoji106]

What are you cutting that needs such a perfect edge? [emoji106]

But if they’d spent a day with you milling they’d learn so much more, and be able to deal with all the newbie errors. I’m not suggesting a permit/license. Just an educational course. There are lots of small woodworkers and hobby millers who don’t use saws. They then go out and buy a 661/880/881 with a 36”-48” bar and set to on their 18” garden tree. I’ve mainly done milling lessons to qualified arborists. Often it’s the little details which make or break your day. Bent bars, irregularly sharpened chain, mill improperly set up etc There are guys I’ve taught and after 45 minutes they look like they’ve been doing it years. However there are levels of milling. It’s fairly straight forward with a 6’ x 18” pine. If you’ve got a 4’+ monster your in for a ride. Then there’s the whole theory side, Which log to mill? What species? What size? What does the bark tell me? What’s the grain doing? Is that a rot pocket? How do you match irregular Pith to pith? First cut? Entering and exiting, Ripping chains, Drying wood Sticking and stacking Kilns Marketing products Etc etc The way I see it, the more small scale milling, the better for British forests,woodlands and trees and all those who work with them. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Containers are sh*t. Ovens in the summer, freezer in the winter. Had 20’ modern container with double ventilation vents. Ceiling always covered in drips. As J says insulation. Or if you have power, an extraction fan. [emoji106]

Being investigated by Dr Quatermass... [emoji6][emoji106]

Double sided whetstone. Can get them from the pound shop or any hardware store. Leave it in a bucket of rainwater. I use the same stone for drawknives. [emoji106]

Message me your number. I’ll pass it on to a mate with a splitter. [emoji106]

Worth keeping[emoji106]

There are none. Yet. I do chainsaw milling lessons though. [emoji106]

But what about the 070,720,780 etc? Will they be discontinued? [emoji106]

As squaredy says buy the whole slab. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Tested the 881’s cross cutting ability with a 30” .404 Very tasty?[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

You’ve bought top quality. Prime grade. Kiln dried. No splits. 80mm thick. I got asked for some cutting board blanks recently. 800mm x 450mm x 100mm Character oak Single live edge Planed on 5 sides I explained a 5” board of oak that size is very expensive when air dried for 8-10 years. Worked out at £130 each if he bought 3 at a time. And that’s before cutting and planing.

About 10’ x 30”? Pictures are on the today’s milling thread. Never had an issue with off cutting under load. And I’ve broken cables and other bits. How do you know how many F2’s were returned? Never heard of this issue before. The main difference between the m7/8 and the F2/+ is length. M7/8 5m cut F2/+ 3.8m cut [emoji106]

Fantastic colour and grain [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

It’s sweet chestnut [emoji106]

I’ve put a 1.5+ton log on my F2+, Did have to build a reinforced table inside the frame though. Wouldn’t want to do it regularly. They’re really good at logs up to about 20-24” Depending what you can move, lift and flip. I mill a lot of 10”-20” hardwood, mainly oak, yew etc on the F2+. Quick and simple, great results. Have a look on the today’s milling thread, got some photos of it. [emoji106]