trigger_andy

I’ve only ever had Stihl. Granted they are always old. ? This replaced my 034. It feels light as a feather to me. I’ve not noticed any vibration either? Use it day in day out at home too. Maybe if I tried a fancy new Stihl I could not go back to the Makita but to me it’s like playing with a toy, a toy with a nice wee bit of power.

I have the Makita branded version. No complaints from me at all. Removed the cat from the muffler and added noticeable improvements. Mine came with an 18” bar and 2 Oregon chains for £250 through amazon.de

My mate just sold his Avant. Was about 3 years old and battered to death. Could not believe what he got for it and neither could he. Sold on the day of advertising.

OK,I'm selling my Alaskan, the 48" bar and the 36" bar. Plus a brand new .404 chain for the 36" bar (cross cut) and also a First Cut system for the Alaskan. The First Cut System is virtually the same as the Panther version in the link below, it was bought off of the same site. Its the same 4m length. There should be some partially used 48" chains as well. 3/8" and .404" https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/pc-20-panther-4-0m-comprehensive-first-cut-track-system-for-logs-up-to-3-5m-expected-6th-june-2020/ The Alaskan has one genuine Granberg leg and the other is original Chinese version, has an aux oiler and bought a quick release system for it. (works ok, again from chainsawbars) Has a winch on it but the last time I mounted it I mounted it on the bloody wrong side and never ended up using it. The Alaskan has been used and abused for about 2 years but still works as it should. I promised a member here first dibs but as yet he's not got back to me so thought Id post it on this thread to see if there is any other interest til he gets back to me. £550 plus postage.

Some nice tips to look out for there. I'll do all that you recommend here. Thanks

How well spaced would you recommend? Some of the websites that sell fruiting nut trees have a good range from timber producing to heavily fruiting varieties.

Well ya got me there! Its sentiments where echoed in the previous link from the Telegraph as well. There was a more technical article I was reading on it earlier, I'll see I can find it in my history. Now whilst you may not agree with the findings Im sure you can plainly see that I was not making anything up. Being as vocal as I am on here and always insisting that statements be backed up with some form of evidence it would be rather silly of me to fall into the trap of exaggerating something like this. For example, all the nonsense the folks on the US election have peddled about Trump not one of them has managed to post a single link backing up their claims. I've no wish to look as retarded as them.

Well give me 5 minutes and I'll fashion my Tinfoil hat.

I assure you I am not. Covid death recount reduces UK toll by 5,000 WWW.BBC.COM Deaths recorded in England had included people who tested positive months before they died. In England, there was no time limit. Someone who recovered from Covid-19 in March and died in a car crash in July would have been counted as a coronavirus death.

Or fell out of an airplane, or died of auto asphyxiation. The cause of death is irrelevant, the point being unrelated deaths where being counted as death by C-19 if the person had contracted it and recovered then died of an unrelated reason. Being hit by a bus is of course hyperbole and was not meant to be taken that literally. It was more to highlight the absurdity of the situation, where someone to have caught C-19 and 5 months later they where hit by a bus their death would be counted as a C-19 death.

Nearly one in 10 'virus deaths' was from other causes WWW.TELEGRAPH.CO.UK Publication of official Government death figures has been paused since mid-July while investigation carried out The Department of Health has been urgently reviewing the way in which it records deaths after Oxford University noticed in July that former coronavirus patients were being included in mortality figures even if they had recovered and then died of something else.

Ok, so maybe better suited for at the back where they would block less sunlight. I'll have a look and see if there is a dwarf variety, or semi-dwarf (if thats even a thing?)

Will plant some of them as well. We've got our first few Red Squirrels now as well so would want to encourage them. But really want Walnut and Sweet Chestnut.

No, in that location it would be more ornamental and also for harvesting the nuts. I have way to many trees round the side and back of the house, but they are all so tall that they block so much light out. I do want trees, but thinned out, not as tall and bearing fruit. Would just be in that red box for now. The other image is old now, Ive removed a lot of trees since that sat image was taken.

#sillygoose #trex #geo #carlife #trailer #fyp #foryoupage WWW.TIKTOK.COM rzrlifebruh (@rzrlifebruh) has created a short video on TikTok with music The Redneck Rant. | #sillygoose #trex #geo...

My cheapo tools, ie SGS and Hyundi are 40-1 so just do all my mixing at this.

Since we've been getting some new drainage we also had a bit of landscaping done and cleared a badly over grown area and seeded it to grass. We's like to plant a few fruiting nut trees. Im leaning towards Walnut and Sweet Chestnut. Ideally we'd not want them growing past 5m in height as it would block the sun like the Beech in the pictures does. The Beech has to be a good 36" DBH to give some scale. The two skinny trees in the pic would also come out it requited. A Hawthorne and and Sycamore. What you can see in the pic is about 50% of what we'd like to plant the trees in. We're in the North East of Scotland. The House/view is South facing and we're about 40 minutes from the coast. Anyone have any recommendations on spacing and species? We'd like them to be as large/grown as I could afford as well. So any websites recommended would be great.

Or maybe they have to be more selective in what they can count as a C-19 death? Eg, England counting dying of being hit by a bus 5 months after being confirmed to have had C-19 and recording the death as C-19. Or even car crash victims coming in who cough getting recorded as C-19 if they died.

They dont have much of an economy but I agree, they've protected what little they do have. To think Sweden turned Norway down for a deal where Norway would get a stake in Volvo and Sweden would get a stake in their North Sea Oil.

Interesting. Been hoping to buy a road tow processor for a while now.

Just so you know Leslie has me on block so he's only seeing half the messages. Theres a good chance he thinks you're replying solely to him (perhaps you are? ) Regardless its best to use the quote function so everyone knows who you're replying to.

Have you done any porting/mods to the Makita?

I always double check my depth after setting the Alaskan up for a cut. So run the bar in a few mill and measure whats left above the kerf. I do this with my bandsaw as well. But as I have a 1", 1.5" 1.75" and 2" Scale I do it less and less now, but odd ball sizes or 3/4" its good to double check. I have had various Planers but just now only have an 8" but will be taking delivery of a 12" soon. So anything wider than this has been hand planed till kinda in shape then belt sanded and finally random orbital. Horrid process. Ive now set up the Router Sled another member had built for me and can flatten 50" wide Slabs I believe. Weatherboarding is normally about 19mm I believe? (I mill mine at a true 1") So keep in mind that for each 19mm board you mill with a chainsaw you're converting almost 8.5mm to sawdust each time. Ok if you have a load of logs, very wasteful you're milling just one log. On a bandsaw the kerf is around 3mm. That Oak if 7m long and the full 50cm diameter is still only about 1.5t. So maybe £150 worth? So not the end of the world if it goes a bit Pear shaped. Personally Id try not to maximise what you can get out of it and try to cover all eventualities for its uses. Id mill it the standard 2" or 2 1/4" even 2.5" and come back to it in a few years. I mill more and more at 2.5" because my kerf is only 1/8" I can re-saw the slabs and still have nice 1" boards for a project. If you have family there is no end to what you can make. If you can hunt down some more oak.

Nice work. Its always so exciting when you Mill your first few logs. Its a feeling thats not deminished with me over the last 4 years that Ive been Milling. I note you're doing a lot of skinny boards but seem to be planning on using them for benches etc? Might be worth keeping in mind that as you're cutting through and through the image below is what you'll end up with even when stickered and weighted down (to some degree) Cutting the thicknesses you have you'll end up with quite a lot of sub 1" boards after flattening. OK for some applications in the house but outside? Not so much. Unless you're specifically looking for 1" boards Id be looking to mill 2" and above. Even a well stickered and weighted 3" Oak Slab that I,m flattening now had 1/2" cup and bow each side over the 90cm width. So thats obviously now a 2" Slab. And a 3" Slab is clearly gonna be much more stable than through and through sawn 1.5" Slab.

Fixed that for you.