drinksloe

I'll try and post a photo if I can figure out how later. Mines are just over 8" by 2" wide, the bigger ones just over 1 1/4" high with the smaller 1" high. Just noticed bought an aluminium wedge, that ive never used, and it's the exact same dimensions. If I was gong to make 1 I'd make them wider than the 2", as with real heavy trees u can really hammer the wedges in and the butts just almost absorb them in, seen them right in to hilt and tree hardly moved.

The thing is when u need that bit extra ur far easier turning to a 20 or 30T bottle jack. Was thinking after my last post it was in my pre jack days I liked the steels, sincere dated using a jack of her go back. I can dig m seeks out van and measure hem as still be nearly original size. Dunno wot we've u have over there but tho ochenshaft? That Clark forest sell take 1 hell off abuse and don't snap, althou downside I cant get them to stack under pressure. Think angle too steep on the bigger 1s so bounce out, but great otherwise

Can u not still buy them?? Are they not just called splitting wedges instead. I used to swear by them, but went completely off them now been years since last used them. Stiill in my wedge box in van but can't see them ever coming out again.. But if u really want to try them do make sure u grind the mushrooms off as others have said. Went back on to plastics and using them the proper way, ie having a few in and just couple off hits each. Even went off hi lifts ever since I switched to those ****************ing useless plastic inserts far prefer 2 12," oregons stacked, drive in easily esp when u can either hit top or bottom wedge I used to give the steel some serious abuse but found with real big heavy ugly spruce they tend to just suck into the tree and tree barely moves esp around this time of year If ur needing to give the wedges such a braeing u need steel ur probably better off just sticking a bottle jack in. Yes the bottle jack's are heavy but probably no heavier than 3 or 4 steel wedges, I just bought a 30T Treemans jack, only done a few trees with it but certainly puhes them in well. Not massive, prob just under 4ft butts but fairly heavily weighted and slight lean but had to go into the crop so right against weight. Doubt they would off wedged in no matter wot wedges u had. Might take a few mins cutting jack in but a lot easier than braeing wedges in, and with heavily weighted outsiders u need the extra lift, double stacks or hi lift just not enough. Work smarter not harder

I also use holding cuts if tree in a dodgy area with only a slight lean, steep slopes other hazzards or limited escape routes, set the tree up get urself into ur safer area and ready to move, sever ur tag and GTF Dunno if I'm doing it right but my back cut is generally above the letter box,, that way when I tidy butt up u can cut off hinge and the stick out bit off letter box. So tidy butt is solid no boring in it. Really shouldn't affect the tree falling over just tmber quality on 1st log As for guns it will depend on where the tree is and wot u want it to do? Fly off butt, stay on hinge, steep slopes. Really type off gub probably won't matter for the holding cut to work ( apart from possibly a smaller gub on small/med trees just to give u room to bore) Vancover V cut is another good 1 for heavy forward leaning trees if going where leaning and not trying to direct them. Or on small trees a T cut (or Mohican cut) works very well, instead of boring u cut 2 strips off either side to hinge so left with a strip of holding wood in middle, so looks like a T with the hinge, then just come in from back as usual

Cheers. Silly question but wots an airless sprayer? Is that like the knap sack or weed killer type? Top wot type of set up do u use? Just gravity fed gun? Water fence paint down? Where it's it should be ok for hitting non target things, but I know it u mean just spray painting in general

As has been said should be a 50 50 unless says on ur title deeds who responsability it is. Do wot u want but I couldn't do it, will look a right mess be in and oot like a virign at a hoor noise. For 200m ur only talking 100 posts max, and u could probably space them out to 3m esp if u run 1 or even 2 plain wires below net to stop sheep scrambling below fence. For the sake of an extra 200 or 300 quid esp if divided 50 50. Esp if u have any intention of paying it sticking steeples in it is not a clever idea.

Is there an easy way to spray timber fences?? Can u do it with an air compressor?? Got a decent sized compressor that I use for normal spraying can u put it normal fence paint thro it?? Does it make a decent job or fine mist everywhere. Its for my mother's fence, its ranch style, it's a fair length and she's stapled net to it for sweet peas etc to grow up and flowers and bulb everywhere, be a real pain to paint. Is a gravity spay gun best or is there other kinds? Or do u dilute the fence paint with water? Cheers

Aye I mibbee would but a lot off money lying about for a once in blue moon 4hr spraying session. For cleaning a few footpaths once or twice a year all u need. Not even sure about 1 would off been all that much quicker. I've used a few electric washers including big wheeled things an none seem to be an awful lot better than my cheapy, for washing 1 machine it's all he'd really need, much else would be over kill. Must admit I'd go petrol and wash it on site out a farm trough or burn, cleaning up the mess takes longer than cleaning the machine in 1st place. And u need a big sump that is easy cleaned out otherwise it will block ur drains.

As other's have said down at an angle is the way taught. In reality it really wouldn't matter if u it a back cut at a different level either above or below, if the weight is there it's going to go anyway once timber is severed.

Must admit I've got a cheap screw fix 1 and really can't fault it. God knows how old it is and had a hard life washing kennels, walls, concrete and some very manky quads and pick ups over a long period of time. Had a few 4 to 6hr sessions with it too My dad has a top end Makita electric and honestly prefer my cheap 1

Cutting a flat side is a good idea. The other thing u could do is dig a small trench/hollow and roll log in to it. Effectively the same as idea as milling a flat surface will depend which s easier for u. Can u get digger access to either dig hollow or roll logs into hollow or flat surface?

Reading it 1st post again how is farmer going to get in with a tractor in summer for the bigger stuff if so tight and no rides? I'd cut ur rides now to make it easy for u for now and the future

Sounds like the wood could do with a good thin even at age exractin routes. Wether u use a quad or winch , even get 6ft off pipe and throw it in burn to make a decent bridge esp if u have more work to do in thee I future. I doubt the extra manoeuvrability of an iron horse will really help much over a quad as it I'll be ur logs sliding behind u causing he problems.

Are Marshall's not the agents for them? Sure they were on there star at apt.. Would a quad access the wood? If so 1 with a logging arch or even 2 arches to get timer right off ground might work, won't be hat much weight in those poles

Fencing isn't rocket science, but like everything easy ways and hard ways. I'd just get ur mates involved from start learn a bit off them and it will save u buying any tools. Dunno where u are but most fencing companies are always looking for decent men, only takes a little knowledge and some common sense and u can soon be a real decent man to have in a fencing squad. 1 very common make fencing is either putting steeples in too far or straight up and down post with grain, they just pop out as post dries and splits. Woody just cos only tied off at the ends does not necessarily mean that section was pulled in 1 pull, any intermediate pulls will just be steepled home on the strainer u can usually tell as on those strainers barb I'll be wrapped round posts to hold them. Seen u doing long long sections without tieing/wrapping off althou may have had many pulls. How far u can pull in 1 stretch I'll depend on the ground etc, seen u pulling 3-500+m if pulling to middle with a pair off clamps. Seen it pulled with diggers too personally I just prefer hand pullers

Bloody hell this thread took an unexpected turn throu the night. Like someone said earlier glad to see the irony of title isnt lost on anyone😀 PS Im still wondering ho do u ignore a person? Is there a button I can click?

I hate barb on bottom and refuse to do it, absolutely no need for it, a sheep won't push hrougha tight plain wire. The ammount off times I've ripped open my hands digging below a fence to find a buried barb. Does it neighbour has cattle too? If so u LL need a taller me than 5 strand. Normal net is 8. Have u dug strainers in before? Or are u hireng a post chapper? Do u have any fencing tools? At 150m u LL need 2 sets of wire strainers, ur blue bars just won't cut it at that distance If u haven't dug strainers in before ,( and even have the tools to do it, need long pinches and long handle spade or shuv holers,) and don't have man fencing tools d e as well getting a pro in. Digging and packing strainers in takes time u be got 4 for gates alone to do , if they're not right and tight whole fence will be a mess and gates will wobble about. With wire fencing all comes down to trainers

ToI think there has always been a lot off banter and some very strong views on certain subjects esp politics etc. I end just to avoid this threads. Many ways to skin a cat, and quite often in ARB, forestry or fencing it's not black and white wot is the correct way to do things. Many will have adapted things to suit there style of work or machinery they have etc. U could argue all day about how method is best, when in reality they probably both work ok. I was lucky enough to learn off quite a few old timers and generally the old timers knew wot they were doing. Yes if u understand why they done it u can often cut corners but u have to know when u can cut a corner and when u cant But would I would say is different is now there is a few very opinionated members who have absolutely no experience or real knowledge about wot there arguing over and have such strong views. Probably seen a u tube clip from some cowboy in a different country and thinks that's best practice. I've been round the block a bit and worked with some real good blokes/tradesmen but still learning, every day is a school day. Not that I generally get involved with arguments but have no problem arguing with other experienced folk, even if u don't agree u know they have they're own reasons for it and it works. And put in the hard work gaining experience But when some Muppet watches an other Muppet on u tube and tries to argue black is white with vastly experienced blokes it's no wonder folk feel like banging there head against a brick wall. If they just shut up read and try to take in/understand and ask questions not a problem but when there telling experienced pros and arguing black is white with no practical experience it's no wonder folk get sick esp if they have had a hard day on tools/saw themelves

Aye but some folk do bring it on themselves a times. How do u ignore someone?? I generally believe if u have nothing positive to say better to say nowt, but I also struggle to tolerate fools at times. Usually pretty lucky to work with decent folk or young lads that wan to learn and do listen.

Wot size off chain is it thou? On 1.3mm guage it could either be 3/8s Pico or the newer 325 xcut chain.. The 325 xcut chain ideas normal 325 file, while the 3/8s Pico will be a smaller 4mm file. Guessing it will be 3/8s Pico as I think narrow 325 is quite a new size. The raker guage will depend which depth it is .25 or .35, but shouldn't matter wot pitch it is I like that new 325 narrow chain on my 550 and 560 but got a few smaller saws on 3/8s Pico and it cuts well too if u keep them sharp

Hand augers it possibly depends on ur local soil conditions, like I said I've never ever heard of a fencer using them. Locally don't think soil lets them work that we'll and on the few occasions it does work well it obviously good digging anyway so ur digging holes in no time. I don't do much fencing nowadays as mainly full time on saw but last 2 jobs done for the local contractor was 900m of palisade and 5000m of hill stock fencing all hand balled. Both jobs he got me in purely to hand dig holes as digger couldn't get to quite a few on the palisade and no machines could get near that hill fence ( including argocats, tracked argocat and haaglunds, and tractor with full twins) Think spent 3 weeks off 10hr days just digging and packing strainers in He has all the toys and machines u can think off, has some real good kit yet hasn't got a hand auger. If they were any good those jobs would off paid for it themselves. U mean a strainer for stock fencing? U've lost me otherwise. Wot are u using 6" posts for in garden fencing.? Been involved with most types off fencing for 30 odd years don't think ever used a 6" square post for anything If ur knocking a square posts in do u not have problems with them turning? Esp if garden fencing when everything has to be smack on. Even with a big hole augered I'd be surprised if u got it tight enough knocking by hand. Only ever used or heard of augers used when larger so u can concrete around the post, but usually security or crash barrier work.so hole is a specific size each time, as meant to be to meet BS standards esp for crash barriers Althou I have used rock drills ( high powered air similar to oil rig drills) and clay drills ( high pressure water jets) similar to how ur talking about it, in Oz for strainers for vineyard fencing but only coupled with a post chapper and in extreme hard ground, ground would already have been ripped with a big dozer. Many modern top end post chappers can come with rock spikes, which are just a 4" metal spke

I must admit I reacted to some ****************wit last night, which is not like me i usually dont but never seen so much rubbish posted n a short space off time. I think the internet does tend to bring the worst out in folk. I mind years ago when I done my bouncer ticket, they reckoned 70% of communication is non verbal, the same written/spoken word/sentence can mean something very different without the smile, nod, wink etc How do u ignore a person on here?

SCS ur talking about high quality work etc but the more u talk the more obvious u havent a clue. Good to know u consider ur self a tradesman fencer after 5 mins Might get away with it in big cities where no one knows any better. That 3ft extension sounds like the biggest bodge job ever, I think u should invest in some new stetsons and boots and get along to the line dancing. U'll fit right in. Is there a que for ur autographed rogue trader/cowboy builder photos? Doubt will be long till that wee bald bloke is chasing u down.

That means ur only putting an inch or so of concrete round posts! I don't know any fencer with a hand held auger, used tractor 3 point linkage, digger and bobcat mounted augers bloody great things on a machine. Althou usually on big security fencing jobs so good access. Must admit a digger bucket cut down works just as well too When a hand held works well u could probably hand dig a hole pretty quick too, a decent sharp spade, sharp pinch ( and a chopping pinch) and shuvholers take a bit off beating and just get stuck into it.

The thing is above on road clearance type jobs hey just want rid off the trees as easily as possible. Any cash they make is a by product/bonus. Ur getting 55-60 quid odd per T for firewood, which becomes 10-20 quid for brash with the added hassle of extracting it and getting it near nigh to roadside in 1 pile they an reach.