drinksloe

Alright folks. Had 1 of those days, just a bloody nightmare, wind all wrong and when u go with the wind ( against the weight/lean) it bloody drops to nothing. Glad no swear box at work as been a power of swearing today, not helped by heat. To finally cap the day off I ended up swimming in the peat soup that is the extraction track. Absolute belter, bit of brash up lace as I was tettering in middle ridge of 2 deep puddles. Full on face splat right down the shallow rut face completely under soup, saw fully submerged as was combi can, could only see tiny bit of spout sticking out. Was a full on sas reality show type press up with heavy rucksack on my back. Could off been worse, could off happened on way in n morning. Jut a shame not caught on video as would definately have won some money, an absolute classic. Wot do I need to do before I start saw tomorrow?? Wasnae running so shouldn't have done any damage yet. It's lying men the now drying off, got air filter off and washed it worked was well choked up with peat but looked dry inside ( althou only had a quick look) Could easily be crap/water in exhaust. Exhaust off? Or just plug out and pull it when upside down? And took the bar/chain off and just full of peat couldn't even make out where sprocket was. Still to take starter side off but it will be chooks too. That fine peat will just be like grinding paste in both sides, word best way to clean them? Paint brush with some water or even a light power wash both sides ( making sure no where need carb or exhaust) To be honest.at moment might give that saw a day off tomorrow as only a few months old. Ps it's a ms462 if that makes a difference

I take it not a tick bite and u knocked it off, not a classic sign off Lyme's Disease might be worth a Google on Lyme Disease action or bada sites. Always worth knowing the symptoms of Lyme disease and proper ways to remove ticks ( not lighter, fingers or vaseline)

Might also depend on ground conditions, are trees on the dolp?, loads of stones, uneven ground, loads of brairs/vegetation for clearing saw to get tangled on. When I've done respacing SS I used a saw as doing twin stems and suckers too. Used both saws and clearing saws on peat bog restoration jobs where cutting everything down if not to dense clearing saw is fine but usually u just get stuck in with the saw. Might depend on the site and wot u prefer but it is surprising how big u can take with a clearing saw

I've not looked into the price of g couplers yet, but u get fairly cheap 1s from machine mart, work fairly well althou a bit bulky. Very impressed with mine for the money

Alright I was just wondering wot u all use for grease gun couplings? I'm more a saw background so never really had to grease heavier machines and sick of normal couplings either being slack or so tight u cannae get the bloody things off. Got 1 cheap lock on type nozzle which I really like but just a wee bit bulky with the lever on side. Is there many other types out there? I thought I seen 1 somewhere which was a sliding locking mechanism which looked better.

Cheers spud. Just no one around locally, by time I drive down to Wilkinson's be 2+ hrs each way, so 2 days off work + desiel + hire. I sort off hope when I sell it, it shouldn't drop too much, plus this job cold take longer than I plan, always do when at ur own house. 1 rusty old one went thro euro last week within 50quid of a new price delivered o my door, and it still had buyers fees to go on top plus me picking it up.

Cheers folks I think I might it steer clear of the Jsl 1 then. Never used 1 before but thought if it does wot it said in the blurb might be quite good but did look bulky. I'll just stick with a more normal 1, might be easier sold afterwards too, meaning to move digger on after I get these 2 jobs done. So if anyone is wanting 1 in the near future for a 5t machine on 45mm pins.

Aye tried the small bucket, think a 9" and was just shaking the machine to bits, and snapped both teeth off it. Fairly hard but like u say it is shearing when u hit it at the right angle just takes a bit of back and forward. Been at the banking a few years now so rock is getting softer as weather gets into it. Bet really handy for the 20m u needed it for thou. I was putting off buying 1 just incase it wasn't up to the job and needed a pecker, but with this cable to dig in thought I'd give it a go can see it catching a few roots

Alright. Alright just wondering on opinions on ripper teeth and the various brands. Put off buying 1 for years but going to bite the bullet, Got a found to dig throu some shaley rock ( prob only 30m but fairly hard as well as an electrical cable trench where could be a lot off tree roots. Been looking for a 2nd hand 1 for years just never see any 2nd hand Is there much difference between brands? I see the Jsl 1 has a toothed blade on back, does the blade actually work for cutting roots? Is it worth the extra money. I ake it they generally hold there value 2nd hand? Only really be needing it for 1-2 month.

Just to add are u sure it is furniture grade timber? Felled a few nice shaped/looking oak a few months ago, boss of company we were subbed in to was convinced worth a fortune even thou low branches etc, be ok for hobby boys but needs to be good to sell commercially. Timber haulier burst out laughing when he seen its roadside, went for firewood. There is another lad from moffat who has a proper band saw mill, not sure if he travels far with it. Fat and thin timber company I think he is called, or something like that

Was there not a lad agrimog? on here, u used to post, can't mind seeing him post for a while. Was he not a sawmiller? Wot are u wanting done with them?? If ur struggling I'm not that far away, moffat and meat all the way. Was cutting on a job at Denny and carluke in the spring so not any further than m used too.

No there nowt wrong at all with wot u done. 😀😀 Using the matbro bucket as a shield was a good idea, the safer u can make it the better Must admit I'm similar to u, until this spring can't remember ever felling a lime before and it is quite "soft' timber even when living. It just was quite a good photo and I've lost count off the ammount off times I've thought "aye got plenty I'll no bother boring" and been sweating and swearing at an 'easy' tree and u see the curves of both sides as far as ur saw can reach on both sides. Makes it bloody hard work. Like I said any doubt at all I take even just the bar width or so out the centre of hinge.

Bit late to party on this 1. Nice cutting billhook. Not picking fault here but just a good photo to highllght to others when u just push a smaller bar to the limit. And I would happily choose to fell that tree all day long with a 15 or 16" bar. Was just going to say if I'm ever in any doubt about bar size Vs tree butt I always bore the gub/letter box the hinge. As u can see just behind hinge there u didn't have an awful lot off over lap, just where the wee curve is. Often get the plug just behind hinge or worse smack bang in centre of tree. Nothing worse than battering and battering wedges in when uve left an accidental plug. And once ur committed to back cut u can't go back and bore. My motto is if n doubt bore the gub out!!! If not needed not a problem and only takes seconds on a borderline tree. Definately beats really battering wedges because of ur own stupidity, which I still do far too often ( althou mainly chancing luck for too small a bar) I had 2 just a few weeks ago, even after boring the gub a 30T jack really struggling to get them moving. Had 5 biggest 1s then a lot on small 1s on a real steep banking, took a chance on my 18" saw as a compromise, trees didn't look that big from 150m away across the gully. But they never do, esp if a lot of good timber on a job.

If u punched the nails down could u not resand it to get floor smoother?? Even hire the proper big industrial belt sander in? I'm amazed she managed to sand the floor with he nail heads, docking up i thought they would be torture on the sanding belts/discs. I know when I done mine punched everything down 1st as the sanding belts for the big sander we hired weren't that cheap ( plus lot time driving 30mins each way to get more, and finding time as long it after work)

Definately agree with u. From wot I was told u don't have a lot of control with direction with this cut anyway. I thought it really only was for felling directly inline with lean. But I do admit not that experienced with this cut. If I wanted more directional control would be back to a normal hinge either dogs tooth, T cut or modified coos bay ( I never like severing both sides of the hinge, esp any sap wood, so start my triangle further back behind hinge) back cuts Only my experience but I think if u have no sap wood on the side of the hinge if will never have enough strength to hold a tree against the weight to pull it in. So having the V cut u have effectively severed all the sap wood at front of tree. I'm sure when I was originally shown it way back when, to form the V we had 2 complete gubs meeting at the V point The few times I've really needed it, it's always looked a bit rough due to bad access to front of tree, so a wee bit of a hatchet job, definately not pretty, but always worked well and felt safe using it. Allowed me to be in far safer positions than a normal cut would

Must admit if it was as big as that oak limb I'd be dog toothing it that limb would be about 20". The. V would be safer than a big gub in timber as big as that, esp sycamore. Unless u ratchet straped it, but even then u'll prob nip ur bar putting a big enough gub in. Get away with murder cuting softwoods and birch as generally don't chair that easily. Good to play about with other cuts when u had loads of room and safe even it it goes dramatically wrong.

Must admit never tried it in sycamore but I only really use it in trees where for some reason not safe/bad access to front of tree esp if big enough to need to cut gub from both sides and bore gub. Normally my go to for leaning tree would be a dogs tooth or if too small a bigger gub and gun it, if u think u can. Mibbee be worth trying it in a smaller tree 1st, less forces involved if it goes wrong As long as ur felling it direction of lean, and if no targets about to damage u could give it a shot. Like u say a sycamore hinge is about as useful as a chocolate fire guard anyway. With that oak ideally I wouldn't off chose to do the v cut with such a big limb, but it was so high off the ground no way I would have any good control of saw to control hinge or strap Being honest in hindsight it reallly wasn't safe , even by my standards but it was a safer option than dogs tooth at that hieght or felling with that limb still attached and poor escape routes.. Getting a skidder in was never going to happen with that firm Have used it a few other times and worked well but just never had phone with me, Not a go to cut but handy to know. I mind doing a truly horfible edge Norway with it, right on edge off a 6ft vertical banking bent like a banana and really leaning and hairy, must of been getting near to 3ft at butt Only going 1 way but I only had my 15" bar with me as brashing and u just couldn't access the front safely to to gub and bore hinge. Again worked really well and nice slow release giving u time to GTF.

Prob not a photo i should be posting, but thats why cut so ruff. Not the safest hieght to be working a biggish saw. Definitely couldn't of stuck a gub in and bored with any accuracy. But it made the felling cut safer as natural escape routes where over a wide and deep ditch. The oak had a right wide crown otherwise

A long way off text book. The 2 cuts at front should off met up far tidier. And back cut should off met up with them But quite an awkward situation. Right on edge off a deep ditch and quite a big heavy oak limb with a lot off lean on it. Despite how ruff and ready worked perfectly

Aye pretty much. U don't want the front v to be over steep ( I just do them 3 to 6" fall but I'm no expert on them) and want them to meet or ideally cross inline with here u want tree to fall. Really the Vancouver v and coos bay are the same principle in reverse, if u leave a triangle shaped hinge it doesn't barbers chair. I have got a photo in my phone if I can figure out how to work it.

Off coarse u could always ratchet strap/or wrap chain or rope round the butt too, the old skool way and just back cut as normal. How they done it back in day before chainsaws when only had cross cuts If stem has no room to move it can't split and chair on u Even a good option as a belt and braces back up to any off the cuts already mentioned, if tree looks like it may have other defects or a dodgy site with less than ideal escape routes. For the seconds it takes

A job I was on was getting 58 quid roadside for shitty bent birch, even the bigger bits would hardly be much over 12" down to 3" and just approx sizes ( just paced rather than taped) so not really processor grade. And even cut at a bad size for timber wagon ( 4m job just not thought out at all) so dearer haulage costs.

And depends on tree species size, decent escape routes as the cracking may start and u just have to keep her going full tilt.

Probably be easier to Google it or search on here, I'm sure it's been talked about before with pictures. Not the easiest to explain in writing, althou a pretty simple, quick and easy cut to do. Althou as no hinge it will only fall the way it's leaning. Basically put a V in where gub should be at front of tree ( I'm sure years ago when I 1dt done tickets u actually put 2 gubs in) at a slight downhill angle and a normal back cut level with the top off the V s, and the tree should fall in line with the point off the v

Really could be any off the above or all off them to different degrees. Even in wet areas surprising how small local areas could dry out esp with a new plant. Could it even be too wet? But would have to very waterlogged, but barley and wheat will go yellow when water logged or under stress