drinksloe

2ft is not enough for a 6ft fence esp if solid, we always dug 32" using 8ft6" stabs as standard and deeper in soft ground exposed places. Boss always wanted concrete in below post 1st We also rarely used postcrete apart from very small jobs, as just too expensive the ammount u need to put in Rome each post. Too many folk think 1 bag per post is enough Have u not done exactly that thou using the 3" posts from the previous 3ft fence? U have no idea if concreted, how much or how deep.

I sort off guessed that's wot u were doing. I'd get ur bill in quick and hope no big winds in meantime. A post put in for a 3ft fence is never in a million years be strong enough or dug in deep enough or with enough concrete to support a 6ft fence. Unless very sheltered fence will not last long. Even a 3" post is not heavy enough for a 6ft fence no matter how deep or well concreted in unless very sheltered. That's why larch lap fences always snap off at ground level.as usually put up with 3 inch posts. Only proper way to do it is scrap whole fence and start again with proper posts dug in and well concreted.

I have to admit never changed a fence from 3ft to 6ft before. But are u just bolting 3ft extensions to the existing fence posts???

Worts the old saying about sometimes better keeping quiet than opening ur mouth and proving them right. Think the internet full of experts that quickly show haven't really done that much. As for 100 quid a meter fencing, I think palisade and possibly chain link fencing could be getting near that, think palisade is a bit over that esp if any gates. Last palisade job I was on was 900m and included some massive gates wouldn't like to pay for the gates alone. I just put the stuff up occasionally been a long long time since I priced any.

Seemingly called scanipots, must admit never seen them, but the lad that uses them is a good fencer and knows his stuff. Think u get octopots as well which are expensive but meant to last. I know 1 company I occasionally help fencing out ( try and avoid the Mel nowadays) only use USC4 strainers which are UK treated and a 25 he guarantee. An a local mill had started doing " incise'? posts/stabs a machine slices and injects treatment around ground level on stab. No idea if it works thou. Biggest problem is very few if any sawmills dry timber now before cutting or esp treating. The small sawmill we used to buy all our timber from ued to have a big yard drying cut timber under tarps for months, bet plenty off fences we put up still standing 20+ years later.

A mate just had a quote at 9.50 per m for a fairly straight forward fence. That was for imported timber with a seemingly 40yr guarantee for rot. Down to aroun 8 quid with normal posts. I mind when I started it was around 4 quid for years and I used to do erect only for 1 quid a meter for my wind jobs. Its got dear quick

Will it not change so much from area to area, even locally due to soil and soil conditions, drainage, exposure etc, never mind other management styles thinning, planting distances. A site we just finished the trees onset side m off been 10-20m shorter and tiny ( the smallest trees only good for sticking under tracks) compared to the quite decent trees on East side of that wood. And that was only sitka at around 25 off years

Bi late to party. As not has said hats a classic J cut for windblow, done bang on too. I would imagine it was right throu the lines.

Is either that or u get some weed killer that targets broad leaves. Not up on weedkiller, but got some Blast/headland flail? off a farmer bloody brilliant stuff on nettles and docks but left grass untouched. But either way as well waiting till spring

Could possibly be rosebay willo herb it as above will become clearer in a month or 2 But the strimmer stems in grass do look dock like.

U might think different when u have to lug it, ur petrol, wedges and sledge, 20 or 30T bottle Jack plus the most important thing, ur piece ( bait, or lunch if ur from down south 😀) And always seems to be up hill on apply slopes and over brash matt's, walking in/out is the worst part off the job. Aye but these woods are fairly remote, the site I'm on the now is not that remote but still 6 miles up a forest track throu a locked gate and up a small valley about 8 miles. And probably 50 odd acre site. I still couldnae get my 2wd van in the day, took a shortcut up some rides and snowdrifts over knee deep. Althou I have been carrying saw in and out, just a wee touch cold for it

I think might carry it in out the now when still as cold as it is. Snow still bumper deep and wee van had no chance even with snow tyres and socks on. Big resivoir below still frozen almost right across. I mind I left climbing saw up a tree for a while could off been a month or 6 weeks. Just ran out off daylight when I was up and 1 off those jobs I never got back too, or weather as never right at wknds, for myself on my ground so no one moaning Had to get it serviced as wouldnae start but hanging up on its strap so rain could get into carb. Goes fine now, not that it goes much use.

Aye my saws in back off van almost permantly, I need to line the roof as terrible with condensation. Had a month - 6 weeks constant of - temps quite a few nights pushing double figures, been a cool 1 this year. 2 sites I'm on havnae had a wagon in this year or since Christmas, road conditions are that bad with frost and snow. Just the more extremes when let outside. Was fairly cold when my 550 had its camping trip and fired up bar bother

A lot off the old timers done it regularly. Have to watch with ur helmet as mice like eating them and bloody freezing putting a frosted helmet on 1st thing. Aye it was all these fancy electrics got me thinking, I might just carry saw out to be safe since its brand new. Althou looking a forecast weather looks quite mild now up to a few degrees and little frost at night. Just wondering if anyone else has had problems, but possibly not many folk leave saws in wood anymore. I don't do it that all that often as not that often on same site 2 days on trot

If I'm leaving them it's a long walk in and I do take a few mins to cover/disguise with brash. Seen me taking a min or 2 to find them sometimes the next morn. Esp his time off year little daylight for folk to go ratching anyway.

Alright. Anyone ever had any problems leaning modern computerized saws out overnight in cold/wet/snow conditions? I often leave my saws/tools up wood if felling in the same area the next day, still running some older saws ( few off the last 3 series huskies) Finally got finger out and bought myself a new 462, even read the manual about storing etc. This site is still fairly cold, I've not been up for a few weeks but had 18" of snow lying last week and still a bit hanging on so pretty cold still. Will leaving my modern saw out overnight harm it? Prob be hung up a tree rather than on deck. Must admit I have left my 550 and 60 out and never even thought about it infact my 50 spent 5 nights stuck in a tree up there a few weeks ago and fired mar bother. Mind 1 of the old timers who done 1st thinnings saying he left his saw ( most likely a 254) under a pile of brash 1 Fri night and it snowed heavily that wknd took him weeks to find it.

Cheers village. U didn't have to answer the questions more to think about them urself. They pull be the things I would be looking at. U seem to have thought about most things thou Seems a big shed but u are storing a fair bit of timber. Only other thing possibly u could build it in the or so it can be extended. Design it so u can add extra bays in the future

Plenty of good advice already. A few questions I'd ask thou are wot volumes do u want to store? How long for? Is how many years and how often do u intend handling/moving it? How are u storing it? Althou I think u said vented bags. Also how are u handling it? Will affect roof height and stacking height, I think some traditional forklifts had masts above the forks. Even where/how do u log/split and process it? Even how u get the timber too the shed. My 1st thoughts not knowing exactly wot ur plans are. Bays are a must, possibly not as important if bagged thou, but very mportatant if hand stacked loose Personally I wouldn't bother too much about rain blowing in, my lean toos where built way back and all face SW, giving where I live in SW Scotland see a lot of driving rain. Yes outside may get wet but soon dries off. Not like it soaks into the wood far. I wouldn't bother with doors on ur log bays, when u get to size ur talking about get big and heavy, sliding doors can be a pain when u want access right along front. U will most likely always seem to be sliding doors that are in ur way. Be a real pain if u have to move logs not adjoining bays If have ur workshop/safe storage area completely solid walls, even think about blocking them, then secure and warm for working on stuff. Dunno how u transport ur timber about, but looks like it siteing ur shed right out main access road. If that is ur main access track I'd site shed to side of it so u can still run about on it, and the hard to load shed esp if screwing wheels. If u site shed on the concrete u will be loading and screwing wheels on the dirt. If leave the log bays either bare or hardcore but concrete the work shop floor. Everyone will have there own ideas depending on how they work and there machinery, just getting the right blend off ideas for how u want to use it.

Can u not just go round various shops selling storage boxes? If it lucky u might find some boxes with lids that fit in there, be cheap. If too long a space either tie a bit off string/rope to the handle so u can reach it. Or bend a piece of flat metal at 90 on the far side, so it can pull the box out. Bit rough and ready but would work and no one will ever see it.

Is it easy to disconnect the carb heater on stihls? Looking at a 462.

Aye I'm the same peasgood, quite often in this recent cold weathe had to lift m visor to stop it steaming up. When I was younger I loved getting steamin ( drunk) it not like that. Are he handles a bit sensitive then brush cutter? If they break get bashed is it an expensive fix? Usually have a few piled up in back off van, not that ruff with them. But it can always happen log rolls the wrong way or something

I really only pay attention to chip and oversize log sizes/specs, all I cut and leave complicated stuff for the machines. Do u not use a forester or someone who markets/sells ur timber? Otherwise ask Mendip if he is going to e doing work for u. He'll know the craic locally Otherwise speak to ur local saw mills who u'd hope to sell it too, get there prices and specs. I'm just a grunt on a saw so all this is above my paygrade but I know even with similar saw log specs one mill wants them arrow straight while others take almost anything. Possibly with the current demand for chip, boimasss and lesser extent pulp mibbe not just quite as critical as it was in the past to cut loads off small sizes. As 10 or 20 years ago u could hardly give them away and sat at roadside drying out. Althou I think eurodisney/trash still cut 13 odd sizes on some jobs.

I will mainly Peter no too wear gloves althou sometimes handy as saves ur hands getting coed I resin. If say last moh to 5 week won't have irked much in positive temps althou must off been just above 0 today as road thawed slightly but fishery below still completely frozen over as was the resivior at another job on wed which still had 6" of snow too. I might just treat myself to them.

Alright just wondering wot folk think about heated handles on saws? Never had 1 before, only used 1 once for a short time could hardly hold on to the thing it was that hot. He wears by it thou, althou he uses gloves a lot. Been working in snow a lot the last month and I bet temp rarely much above zero yet I don't wear gloves very often usually only if cross cutting as sick off cutting yelf with logging tape. Is there any cons? Other than the extra 80 odd quid. Do u have to turn them on every so often to keep them working? Or if they break can it affect saw running? On a forestry saw b a 70cc sir for telling/cross cutting rough hairy outsiders so will be in my hands for a good few hours a day screaming is head off. Got a wee telling off the other day off forester for no gloves on and he said heated handles can reduce white finger. Cheers

I would imagine 12ft is a bad size to cut, every sawmill has its own specs and sizes but generally smaller length off log grade timber use 3.7m ( not that far away from ur 12ft but could be an inch or 2 short) after that 4.9s but I get all sorts of lengths 4.1 4.5, 5.1 sawmill/timer grade dependant. Plus a multitude of chip, pulp, bar and fencing sizes. U'd be best to find a home for it 1st or atleast cut it too more common/normal specs and sizes.