drinksloe

I'd just bide ur time unless ur desperate. Sadly I suspect will be a glut off dogs being rehomed in a few months time. U might get some for sale for normal money if folk just wanting a decent home and u miss all the puppy hassle. Althou it does mean u could have issues to fix too. Must admit I wouldn't touch an Irish bred dog, always cheaper over there but I never trust any pedigree from over there unless u know the breeder.

The problem is there getting it. I'd say in normal times 6- 800 quid for a decent bred working cocker with not too much FT breeding. Folk are off there heads paying 2k for any pup, heard off labs going for 3k +. Bonkers. I too would advise a more working pedigree than show lines, in an ideal world a working dog should be more trainable and bark less ( as a fault in shooting) than show lines, althou avoid to much FT completion FTCHs in immediate lines unless u know ur lines. Some can be a real handful while others are great. But some heavily FT bred dogs are also quite inbred now. The problem is too many folk breeding from rubbish bitches even before the money went mental, and many aren't working

To be fair I will be running them both on 2 stroke, both will be used as spare/back up forestry saws so be a bit pricey to run on aspen. As u'll know fairly normal to use a combi can a day or more. I will just make sure to run them dry from now on. Was just wondering if owt else I could put throu them initially other than new fuel Just sitting here thinking are 5 series not 25:1 mix?? I have a few huskies but all 3 series m nursing along, bought a few off the last 1s.

Alright! Just bought a couple off 2nd hand husky 5 series saws ( 50 and 60) Done bugger all and price was right. The only potential problem I can see is being stored all the time with petrol in them. Is there anything u should put throu them to flush the modern carbs? Or just new fuel and give them a load off work?

Alright Was wondering is there an easy way? Going to replace some old slab steps at my place, bit shoogily and all different heights and sizes. Was thinking about running 2 boards either side with cross boards vertically and filling behind with stone/hardcore. Was meaning to cut out sections on the 2 runners to hold boards. So basically everything pre fabricated before hand and dug into ground. According to my crappy phone app slopes about 30 degrees and 9m long.. Wot hieght of step is normal? Is there a way/formula to work out where boards should go as would be easier to cut grooves out on deck 1st, just meaning to do a bit of chainsaw joinery and milling the timber as well. Done very rough steps before but just 2 posts and a board making it up as went along. Cheers folks

Some good advice above. Wot I would say with strainers esp end strainers and turners using a bead/level is the worst thing u can do, a plumb strainer is useless ( unless hanging a gate) U want the head leant well back against the pull of fence. Personally I like extra coup/lean on my strainers as prefer a lower stay so expect the top to move slightly, but I learnt mainly hand balling and digging strainers in. Nowadays many put stays far higher than I was taught, if too high and not long enough really just act as a lever to lift post out off ground. I always cut a hole for the stay shouldn't really need a nail when done right, I prefer a sharp chisel but many nowadays use a chainsaw. Dug in wth a big stone packed in as a heel althou nowadays u generally drive a stab in as a heel and cut it off below ground level. Does take a bit of practice to get the hang off it For plain wire I'd just use rads ( radissuers?) so can be adjusted easily in future. Depend just how tight u want the fence umightbe able to tension just with a spanner althou far better with set of pullers. Finally even a simple thing like putting steeples in can make a difference, u want them diagonally into post so not in same grain and even at a slight down hill angle so don't pip out if u climb it. See loads off farmers putting them in straight up the grain just pop out when posts dry and split

Just thinking I imagine u dress the knot up so fishermen are tight on reef before u start pulling. So ignore my last post

Was just looking at the picture off the reef/double fisherman's knot. I know some have said put a shackle in reef knot, which I can see working. But without the shackle ( or in normal working situ u've left it in van and are too lazy to walk back for it) would the reef knot not be very tight by the time it has pulled the 2 fishermen stoppers up close. I know reefs can pull out under pressure but they can also grip and go as tight as a tight thing. Think I'll look into the zeplin a bit more. Atleast now with my rope being already cut its no buggy to have to cut an experimental knot gone wrong, I usually hate cutting knots out of rope even on thin poly prop or baler twine

Cheers folks plenty to think about and practice. Aye did think about putting a shackle in between the bowlines but never had any on me at the time. Cheers again, like the sound off the reef knot and double fisherman's. To be honest I'll probably treat myself to a new rigging rope so I don't need to tie the knots.

Alright I hope this is n the right place?? This week my nice long rigging rope has been tested to destruction a couple of times with harvesters/forwarders pulling trees out off gullies and over. Althou I had had it a while. So I now have 3 not so long rigging ropes. There still mainly 20m plus so not a bad length and far easier to work with than the big 1 if u only need a short rope. But my question wot knots are best to join the 2 when I need say for pulling through a redirect!? But I want knots to come out!!!! I ended up just with 2 bowlines test, and it worked but didn't really like the rope pulling loop to loop. I know reef knots, sheet bend or double fisherman's are better knots for joining ropes but would they come out after u have had a tirfor on them? Cheers

That sounds a strange way to run a driving business, every time a vans stuck in traffic or traffic lights they send a rescue team out?? How long was ur mate pissing for?? Got mates that drive wagons all tracked and rigged up for speed fuel economy, revs etc, bosses used to have comps for most fuel efficient drivers, not sure the drivers were all onboard thou, they had there own comp who could drive the worst. The personal trackers for forestry generally only emit a bleep/signal every so often ( 2mins- hourly, depending wot u set) but also have an SOS button too. And only accurate to a few m's, so u could probably fell a few trees without it bleep ever moving But in reality if u felling outsiders ur signal would hardly move all day, bit different if brashing but even still u'd never really be able to tell if u were just into heavy pappy Norway or having a dump. Only real way to get caught would be sneaking off site early or boss comes out to spy on u as he knows exactly where u are ( but chances are even pre tracker he would know where u are and just follow the saw noise in )

Atleast in theory/on paper anyway. As did most other forestry companies but in practice still the norm really. Very rare for me ever to cut with anyone else on the saw. Just got to be extra careful all the time.

The trackers are only trackers they can't tell u wot ur doing. Can they really tell the difference between u having a piss/ fag break or sharpening saw, cutting toes off/felling a tree or even snedding a tree. Will only give a location to a 5 or 10m square and only every 5 or 10 mins ( depending how set up). Yes if ur taking piss and driving to bacon butty vans and shops every break ( assuming ur not allowed to or to far away) or leaving jobs early often then yes u will get found out. There is a happy medium trackers aren't spy cameras but u do need something if ur working in areas with no mobile signal, even if working in pairs. Always mind my 1st +F course and instructor really hammered home how important it is to get word to emergency services if something hits the fan. Not that unusual to have a 30+ min walk to van plus 20+ min drive to get a signal on some forestry sites. Long time if bleeding out or crushed

Been thousands and thousands of Tonnes of quality larch rotting about the countryside, absolutely scandalous really. But will all depend on access and wether vaible to extract it commercially. If ur mate is happy to mill on site would be easy to extract once milled to size with a quad or something. Possibly that's where a set up like big J's or iron mike's low mpact small scale set up comes in handy mini forwarders or compact tractors or quads with timber trailers. Done a bit of or work and still not entirely sure the score with grants etc, I think u get a 6 month window to fell it after being notified then potentially a 6 month extension after that I think ur threatened with fines.

Really u either need some sort of sat PLB or tracker. Basically a PLB is a single use emergency holy sh*t button, should get a signal anywhere, just buy the machine and no monthly payments If ur employed would be worth the estate going down the tracker option as they can see exactly where u are so even if u can't push the emergency button they can tell where u are. U will have monthly fees but can be added to ur smart phone to send sat texts etc. There is also a company called trackplot based in Edinburgh that monitor ur satellite trackers. Always meant to get more info and prices, but think if ur tracker hasn't moved or u haven't checked in they wil either phone u or ur employers/forester for the wood ur working in that day.

Good advice to get survey done. Also if u can mark it on surface u could just stick a couple off bog Matt's down as a temp bridge. Or if only the digger ( no muck shifting, dumpers etc) hire a digger with bigger pads, seen 9t with 1m big pads travel some very soft ground without making a mess. Ground u can't walk over without sinking. Just to add im another 1 who thinks there is no real need for anything, ur talking 36ft deep. Look at agriculture, most field drains will be withing 3ft of top, in many places quite britile/fragile clay tiles. Say silage time u could have a 7t tractor pulling a 10- 20t trailer, same putting muck out often in winter conditions so soft soil. Don't get me wrong modern heavy tractors are damaging drains in some areas but the are way heavier and less of a foot print than wot ur talking about and 3ft is not very deep. Are farmers tracking over the culvert now? Carting silage/crops over it or tracking diggers to clean ditches or drain fields, often 13t era. Really be amazed if u caused a problem 36ft down

I bought 1 of Clarke's from machine mart, complete and utter junk, don't touch with a barge pole. I use them for lifting posts out, the 1st post I tried it out bent, absolutely f**king useless. Took it back to machine mart and refused to give me a new 1 as I had abused it. A*rseholes never used machine mart since, which is a shame as they sometimes have some decent cheaper brands in. Ive worked wi a few boys with old 1s and there brilliant, get some serious abuse

Alright folks. Just wondering wot everyone's experience with printing flyers for advertising? Wot are the best online sites? Not so much for price but more for ease of design and adding photos etc, esp for someone not very computer literate like myself. Ideally I'd use a local company but with all this carry on could be a while before things open up. Also is there any other tips for wording, advertising, wot should be included etc. I will add not doing a massive drop just be a relatively small number and targeting local estate owners, I do know a few of them or some of there employers so not completely cold calling ( forestry work not ARB). Usually I'm happy to just sub for others but things been quite since this all kicked off time to drum up some small jobs for myself.

There will be better informed folk than me on here dealing with the business/legal sides. I'm just a grunt on a saw. But I imagine there will be a lot of different answers and will be loads of variations between contractors and wether u are selling the crop as standing timber or wether ur paying the contractor to come in only to harvest and extract to roadside. If u were worried for a 1st time ucould always get a land agent involved to smooth the bumps for the 1st time till u get ur head round it, but again they will need paying but possibly a good 1 would get u higher value for the timber so covering his cut Wot u do with the brash might be site and species dependant ( very little of Norway or larch more of Sitka) if a dry site u will have loads of options to remove, esp now with the value for chipping/biomass. But on a wet site u might end up with hardly any brash as it will all go below the tracks and will just be mulch. Also depend if ur mounding the site for replanting, a good operator will bury brash in the dolp ditch and site can be quite tidy. Other times not so much

That's the danger off buying online, u don't know wot ur buying or the quality. Oregon bars are perfectly fine with Stihl saws u just need to buy the correct bar/chain combo to suit the saw. Dunno wot online combo's they are but should state the models they suit.

Must admit just go out and buy he direct bar and chain for ur saw. Prob get a chain for 10 quid and bar for 20, by the time u redrill holes etc and still might not work. As wonky said check ur sprocket and wot size it is t make sure u buy the right combo. Would expect it to be running 325 or 3/8s Pico rather than full 3/8s. Dunno wot guage those brand of saws run but as far as I know only Stihl run a 1.6mm bar

Just thinking again are u sure 3/8s is the right chain for that saw/sprocket? 3/8s is a big chain for a small saw, don't usually see it on saws below 60cc. Sure it's not 3/8s Pico? But that would alter ur groove again down to 1.3mm

Just seen ur picture wot model of saw is it?? Is the bar suited to that saw? Or just a random 16 Stihl bar? I have a small stihl which looks similar to that with just the 1 nut and the bar has an open slot not a closed slot like yes. Different sized saws will have need different mounts etc

If the oregon bar is for a Stihl it will have 1.6mm stamped on it as the guage/bar groove thickness, that's the same for both .325 and 3/8s for Stihl. If it was a bar designed for a husky I doubt us get ur chain into the groove unless very worn ( huskys are 1.5mn) I've had both Oregon and Stihl bars on a saw and the same chain should fit. Are u sure chain is the correct size? Was it a pre made factory loop or shop made loop? Might of made it a link to long and possibly stretched also?

Must admit a interesting thread. But does seem a bit strange the only 2 folk to see the tree physically have came in very high or high, possibly they seen something no one else has?? Possibly not as high as 1st thought. Possibly it is harsh on contractors to say to OP should haggle price down when u have not actually seen the job or know how he itemised the quote. End of day if he's getting a few quotes from local companies he can make informed decision to wot the price is. Surely getting price down from 39 to 35 is haggling. Whoever u get will not be a cheap job by sounds of it, might be well worth not going for cheapest price as it sounds the type of job u could easy under price so will be rushing to try and get finished possibly leaving a poorer job behind.