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stihlmadasever

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Everything posted by stihlmadasever

  1. Ive tried a protos on and it just didnt feel right for me. Everyones aware of the eardefenders lacking in proper protection but it depends how it feels when its on your head.It seems to be a marmite kind of lid-folks either love it or hate it. Sorry i cant be more helpful mate
  2. Huskys 80-90 quid cheaper,and if its just for hedge work, do you really need the extra grunt the 211 gives...probably not joe.
  3. Ive used a 211,jwas just a couple of months old with a 14"bar,didnt like the power to weight ratio.I81/180 are great little saws defo recommend an older 180. To each his own i suppose
  4. Yeah im on my 2nd tank of fuel and its pickin up now. From what ive been told by others on this forum its a great little saw for odd jobs,small fells,logs,hedges etc Think its pretty much in comparison to the stihl 181 but 60 notes cheaper. Search for the thread "husky 135" by myself for other guys contributions
  5. Just checked my trousers...class 1:blushing: I aint buying more trousers.. Id still say class 2 for better safety though
  6. The difference is only 4 meters per second,class 1 being 20 meters per second class 2 being 24 meters per second but id rather have class 2 for peace of mind. Its what id recommend
  7. Husky 135,just got 1 myself,14" bar 2hp sub 200 quid. Cant beat that
  8. I would argue the case of when you pass your cs39 assessment the assesor has deemed you competant to perform the required actions in tree to a certain level,but i would agree that competancey in a broader term is down to each individuals opinion. That said i would have no problem allowing a climber with cs39 to dismantle a tree using step cuts,hand held sections and freefall techniques.
  9. Looks like an alpine butterfly to me. I dont tie it that way though, i tie it with 3 wraps around my hand method You can look at how to tie it on the knot section of arbtalk
  10. In the words of Micheal Caine...I do not like a bird wif big ands...oh no!
  11. This thread has now officially been derailed by 2 dicks arguing about rigging qualifications of groundies...im off
  12. Again the original poster asks what can a qualified climber with cs39 do in tree... I answered his question in the next reply after the above. I still dont understand why you cant grasp the fact that ground work has no relevance in relation to the op's question
  13. If you read the above and interprete what he's askin,its blatantly obvious-what is a climber allowed to do when he's qualified to cs39.
  14. Hes asking what a climber can do if he has cs39 or is qualified to cs41 level,ground work doesnt come into it.
  15. The guys not asking about groundie work hes asking what cs39 qualifies you to do in tree...ffs
  16. Some folks not reading the entire post here, newly laid turf,so a scag/pedestrian mower would tear up and rut the new turf.Strim,rake cuttings and flymo is the best option here
  17. As lead climber why arent you crew leader? That aside i find a boot in the balls cures many many things-im scottish thats how we roll.
  18. Yes,at cs39 you are qualified to cut and drop sections-known as cut and chuck.You are also qualified to cut and free fall sections.
  19. Quite a lot of variables too answer your question but id say qualifications doesnt necessarily determin your skill set.For example i know some climbers who do not have cs41 dismantle and rigging but are great at dismantles because they have the practical experience and knowledge of doing dismantles. On the other hand if you mean for insurance purposes then yes id agree unless someone has the qualifications then technically they shouldnt be doing dismantles. On the cs39 chainsaw from rope and harness we were shown how to set up some light rigging and use slings for hand held sections so again it comes down to how you would interpret dismantling as surely step cutting laterals and choggin down a stem would meet the term dismantling but its what most guys would do even if they only had cs39. Personally if someones a good climber with the practical experience and confidence to take on a dismantle then id say let em do it.
  20. In my opinion you should be able to advise the client as to the proposed work when you see the tree,if its too tight for a fell then top it then fell it or if its a straight fell.Either way it would be priced accordingly. If asked by clients how long it will take i will try to give them a rough time but i always give myself extra room for encountering problems.
  21. Did you read the OP..? Cant get ride on through the gate it said..
  22. Strim,rake/blow cuttings into piles, lift piles then mower the grass piece of piss with 2 good strimmers on the go. If its new turf id conscider a flymo rather than a wheeled mower
  23. I was lookin at the 236 but the power out put is utter shite,probably quicker using a silky than that gutless lemon. The echo equivalents a bit on the heavy side in comparison so looks like 135's the way too go.
  24. Exactly what im after really just a light go too saw for little odd jobs.It needs to be robust,my little 180(rest in peace) never let me down,never even serviced that little saw and it fired after couple of pulls every time except tuesday when it gave up. Cheers for the advice mate
  25. Hello all, My little ms180 has died,deed,finished ,kapuht. Too expensive to replace with a little stihl so lookin at the husky options. Has anyone any experience of the 135. I only need it for light duties,hedges,logs etc. Any help or opinions much appreciated. Cheers

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