Haironyourchest

Sending you healing energy 🙏

100%.

In Brazil the "petrol" is 100% ethanol. Anyone know how it goes with small engine equipment over there?

Oh yes, I see. Read 5.0m as 0.5m. looks like you're right on then!

Looks good, but you also need a lanyard and a steel core flip line.

"Ready to burn" and everything. I do so hate those cheap Swedish candle knockoffs that need a year of drying before they'll burn.

The 500i is an assault chainsaw. Nobody needs an assault chainsaw. I'm not saying we should ban all chainsaws, but we need commonsense chainsaw control.

Now that Only-Fans is banning sexually explicit content, it looks like I'm going to be forced back into the Arb game. What's the going rate for semi-skilled climbers/all rounders these days?

Clickbait. And/or lazy journalism. (Google "solid fuel - image", click, copy, paste, time for coffee).

I doubt the CIA were the least bit surprised.

Honestly, my brain registered that as "teaching level 3 Arabs" and instantly skipped ahead to something bad happened in the lecture room... Arbtalk before coffee, no good.

I take it back - parachute is the way to go!

Go with a 'chute if you want, bro - I'll stick with a long rope!

Been through 2 Lidl "Florabest" grinder (stop laughing) and currently on an Einhell. A step up but still not hitting the spot. Wish I'd bought a pro level all metal one in the first place.

A great reason to keep a bail-out kit in your office or apartment, if you live/work in a high rise. Very long thin rope, simple harness and automatic descender device.

Hi there! To clarify, when you say the chain stops in the cut, are you saying the chain has literally stopped moving, or just that it has stopped cutting? There is such a thing as a running chain that doesn't cut. Sometimes a serious burr on the bar guide rails can snag the side of the cut. If the chain has really stopped, check the clutch, and please don't use the saw anymore until the problem is fixed - trust me, I blew up my 461 like this!

Nearly finished. It's a simpler design than the flashy expensive ones like Reipal. Longer reach as well. Closed length 6'6" extended 11 foot. Haven't tried it yet though. Plan is to have an attachment plate on the low end of the moving part, with swappable gadgets. Spike for log lifting, and a plate for elevating big rounds on to my splitter table....the power source is a 1/4 tonne lever hoist. Not as strong as the commercial Jacks, but mine has a longer reach, so better leverage. The benefit of the hoist is constant control, in both directions. Unloaded, it can free-spool, allowing for rapid deployment and reset. Also detachable for other jobs.

Ok, if I understand correctly, you tried to work the blade side to side like a stump grinder. So you didn't try cutting channels or criss cross then? Last time I checked I think they could be had for fifty pound in the UK, but that was a few years ago. Couldn't find anywhere in Ireland that stocked them. Must check again. Cheers!

But Peter, what was it exactly about the Terrasaur® blade that disappointed you? I wanna know. I gotta know! Dammit, spill the beans, man!! Surely it's got to be easier cutting chanels with a cluster blade and adzing them, rather than working a stump with hand tools alone? Stands to reason. Not all of us need or can afford a stump grinder, but we do have old consaws. A Terrasaur® blade would be worth the 50 odd quid investment for the once in a blue moon occasion I need to remove a stump. I want to buy one, maybe, so I need to know the details of why you found it unsuited to stump removal. Or was it the case that it was ok for chipping away at a stump, but frustrating compared to a stump grinder?

Why can't you use it as a stump grinder? I get that it's not designed to be played side to side like a proper grinder, but what's wrong with cutting multiple parallel slots in the stump and adzing them with a sharp pickaxe? What was it that stumped you when you tried it?

Good one! (Had to Google it). At first I thought Hooks Law was when whatever strap end, shackle or other piece of rigging hardware will always be slightly too big for the Tirfor hook, causing the safety latch to not engage, or get stuck when trying to decouple.

Could be, but doubtful. I'm no expert, but if memory serves, industrial chain has more plasticity and less elasticity than wire rope, reason being it doesn't have to flex over shieves. Whereas wire rope does, so when it goes around the shieve, the outer most side of the rope has to stretch, and the side contacting the shieve has to compress. Elasticity is required for this, or the wire rope will suffer bending fatigue. Chain is elastic up to a point, but as a percentage of it's length it's very little. After it's stretched beyond it's elasticity it just continues to stretch and not return to it's original shape. A really high grade chain can stretch to shocking deformation before it fails, but most of the energy is not stored. Wire rope is really safe though, it gives warning well before failure, as individual wires start to break one at a time, pinging loudly. I think the injuries we hear about are mostly from the off-roading community, using negkected, damaged and undersized wire rope with overpowered electric winches without overload clutches to move impossible loads. Or unrated bits breaking off of vehicles.