Ferguson system

I have a property that is far from flat, so I use it there for various things. I came across the machine by chance and got a good price on it. I'm interested in machines in general and especially machines that are a bit "special". I'm thinking about using it for arbwork and forestry in the future. A timbergrab, mulcher and treeshear is on the wishlist. The machine came with a spare boom with telescopic extension. It replaces the outer section on it and adds two meters to the reach. I haven't decided if I'm going to install it or not, but it might be nice to have coupled with a treeshear or grab. They cost more to buy than a regular machine, but I think it's worth it for the possibilities it offers.

Many of the new versions have four wheels. Some have wheel drive on all four, but very often it's only two wheels that are powered. The other two are just there for support when moving over longer distances. Some of them have front wheel that can be detached/raised or claws that can be lowered to take the pressure of the wheels. In a work scenario you only need two wheels and especially on slopes. The Schaeff I have doesn't have wheel drive (Hydraulic brakes. Pins that is pushed into slots in the rim). The arm is used to drag it forward and backwards. It feels weird and is slow to begin with, but once you get used to it, it's not that bad. it's not that much slower than a tracked machine. At the narrowest setting it will fit on a lorry or on a tractor trailer. I haven't measured it at the medium or widest position. If I had to guess, I'd say that each step widenes it with about a meter.

The legs can be adjusted to operate on steep slopes. It can also walk over fences and obstacles. Each leg can be adjusted separatly. Hydraulicly up and down. Manually side to side in 3 positions. The front legs can also be extended. It's a very strong machine for it's size. It weights somewhere around 6-7 tonns, but feels stronger than a tracked machine in the same weight class.

Schaeff spider

Do you flip the bar when you do maintenance on the saw? It helps to even out the wear, but you probably know that already. One other thing, how is the condition on the sprocket on your saws?

That's a solid lineup you have there 👍. We have a Ford E350 with the 6.0 that we use in our company.

I agree that all season tyres are better than standard summer tyres. They will do ok on snow as long as it's not packed. The problem is on ice and with changing weather & temperatures. That's where winter tyres shine. @AHPP has many good points. Having two sets of tyres allows you to rotate, check tyre pressure and wear. At the same time it gives you the opportunity to check the brakes on the vehicle, grease the liners for the brakepads, check wheel bearings, rust on brakelines, etc that would otherwise have been neglected. Yes, it costs more to have two sets. On the bright side. - You save on tyre wear on each set, optimized setup for each season, can keep up with maintentance before something fails.

No, I'm not based in the UK. I am from Norway. That's the reason I mentioned studs as an added bonus, I wasn't too sure if they were legal or not in the UK. I had a feeling they weren't. Siped tyres with a soft rubber mixture is usually sufficient.

I'd recommend having two sets of tyres. One for winter use and one for summer. All season/weather tyres aren't great on ice and you need proper winter tyres for those kind of conditions. For winter use on ice and snow, you need a tyre that has a soft rubber mixture and is siped. Studs being an added bonus. Look for the snow crystal and not just M&S markings. For summer use on vans and trucks, get all terrains from a well known manufacturer. BFG, Cooper or Nokian for example.

Nice truck and van in the background. Both with the 7.3 powerstroke, or does the van have the 6.0?

Holding down the clutch pedal, and spraying brake cleaner up through the drain hole underneath the clutch sometimes work.

I should probably have been clearer on that. The things I listed are reasons why you shouldn't pull a trailer with the 3 point hitch on a tractor.

You'll overload the lift cylinder on the 3 point, + there's a chance of bending the liftarms, it's less stable, and the 3 point can flip up if the trailer is rear heavy --> ending in disaster if you're unlucky.

1. Stihl ms 201 -12" 2. Jonsered 2252 - 13/15" 2. Jonsered 2172 - 18"/24"

Igland dealers might be able to help you. Igland is owned by one of the largest snowchain manufacturer in Norway, Nøsted - Trygg. Another alternative is Lilleseth snowchains, but I don't know if they have dealers in the UK. Lilleseth Kjetting | WWW.LILLESETH.NO The U-grip chains they offer are some of the best you can get.

Chains for atv or compact tractors might fit. What's the tyre dimension on your tractor?

How about a 2021 Ford Bronco? It's compact, has pulling power, can be factory ordered with 35" wheels. 4x4, with locking differentials front and rear. Like they say in the clip "You need a Bronco!"

I don't know if this is relevant to the UK, but this is what the Norwegian law text says: "§ 17-24. Use of ropes for access, work and rescue. When the employer has assessed the risk and finds it justifiable, an employee can use a rope for access and to take up working positions. It is assumed that the work can be carried out in a safe manner and that it will not be appropriate to use other and safer work equipment. The employer shall implement the following measures that ensure the safety of employees when using ropes: a) the rope system shall include at least two ropes with separate fasteners. One rope is a work rope and is used for access, descent and support, and the other rope is a safety rope that secures the workers. If, after a risk assessment, the employer finds that the use of two ropes will make the work more dangerous, one rope can be used. The employer shall then implement suitable measures such as the safety of the employees, b) the employees shall be equipped with and use a suitable harness that shall be attached to the safety rope, c) the work rope shall be equipped with a device for safe ascent and an automatic locking system that prevents the user in falling, d) the safety rope shall have movable fall protection equipment that follows the employee's movements, e) tools and other equipment used by the employees shall be secured to the employees' harnesses or work seat or in another, suitable manner, f) the work shall be carefully planned and monitored so that employees can get immediate help in an emergency situation. The workers must receive the necessary training, exercise and instruction in the work to be done, especially on procedures during rescue work. The rope must, if necessary, be equipped with a work seat. In the assessment, special consideration shall be given to the duration of the work and the ergonomic loads the employees are exposed to. 0 Amended by regulations 30 Dec 2013 no. 1725 (in force 1 Jan 2014), 26 June 2015 no. 806 (in force 1 Jan 2016)." "Comments: Types of work operations where the use of ropes may be relevant are: Rescue of personnel, Access for inspection or execution of work in places where it is difficult or impossible to establish collective security, such as bridges, silos, masts, poles and trees etc."

I would have replaced it with a 420cc Loncin 15 hp. Cheaper than the Honda, more power and they seem to hold up well.

Veg oil doesn't cause that kind of damage. In my experience, canola oil is just as good as regular chain oil. By looking at the photo, my first thought is that it's a combination of things. A tight chain, blocked oil flow or low oil flow in combination with dirt in the wood, and a chain that is not sharp or has high rakers. So it will only produce fine dust. If the rakers are high, the cutters can still look "sharp", but the chain won't cut. And if you have an operator that ignores it and pushes the saw, that's a recipe for disaster. The nose may fail, but usually it's the rails on the underside of the bar - middle part that takes a beating.

On bare metal and chassis, I use owatrol oil as a primer with enamel paint mixed with owatrol oil on top. Underneath, I would have sprayed it with linseed oil first, let it dry and black waxoil on top.

I would have choosen a Scandinavian style logging winch. I'd recommend looking at a winch with 3-5000 kg capacity. Take a look at Igland, Fransgård and Farmi winches. ONE-DRUM WINCH Arkiver - Igland AS WWW.IGLAND-AS.COM https://www.fransgard.dk/all-products/forest/v-winch Winches | Farmi Forest FARMIFOREST.FI

Jonsered 2252 or 2258

One option is to cut it higher up than the fence, make a tongue&groove cut so it'll stay in place. It looks like the trees lean in the right direction so should work. It will rest on the stem and crown, fence intact underneath.

Yes, that is true. Although, it shouldn't be a problem when it comes to documenting what they can actually tow and get them registered with that. The chassi number on US trucks is fairly easy to decode, and the documentation should be more than adequate.