cornish wood burner

Most stumps come out in a few minuites with a wheeled digger and 1 ft bucket. How big were the trees and how steep is the ground. If huge trees a 360 to suit with a ripper tooth or small bucket.

You will have earnt your money today then. 5mph at work so we should have done one. Short staffed and lot of other things going on so no time unfortunately. Would yours be single span with the polythene dug in? Still a lot of work even if it is. When we bought visqueen it only came in standard lengths and the supplier didnt roll it. It came from further afield and might have been in a roll for a long time. Your supplier may be different but if he only offers standard lengths chances are he just buys a number of standard length rolls and puts them on his shelf and until someone wants that length. Worth enquiring I would think and if that's the case who knows how old it is. It might have changed now but visqueen used to be supplied in very neat but tight rolls which could cause too sharp a fold.

We've got an oak floor finished with polyX satin and its not too slippery. Great finish as it seems to polish up with the hoover. Been down about 5 years now and I am going to give it another coat as its lost its shine in the heavy traffic areas.

You will need to get a coarse blade for your hacksaw probably 3/8 pitch would suffice.

Trying for a free cover has to be worth a go. The reasons I can suggest for splitting on a fold are rolled too long, too sharp a fold, too much movement on the tunnel, poor polythene technology or a combination of these things. Assuming the roll has not been on your shelf for long and it was a precut standard length then possibly it sat on your suppliers shelf for a year or so before you received it. Could be worth checking the sheet date if it has one printed on it.

Visqueen used to be the market leader but seem to have stood still. For example 720 gauge used to be normal, competition brought out a more technical and stronger 600g. Visqueens answer 800g which is 33% heavier but no stronger. XL horticulture in devon will advise and supply you at a good price. Speak to Joe or Les

You will have stored it too long, put it on upside down even though there were no markings, tensioned it too much, not tensioned enough the other way, your hot spot will be the wrong type, you didn't warm it enough before fitting, you used the wrong grade for your area, your hoops will be too far apart but too close on the other tunnel and both will be too high. Do you know nothing!! We used to get exactly the same problem with visqueen but it was easily solved.

Because its visqueen

Good evening openspaceman Its not the danger of the weld cracking off that would worry me but the stress it would generate with the danger of crack propagation from weld to base metal. By the time that anvil is heat treated I wouldn't think there would be much to chose between costs and I know which I would rather stand in front of. Hard face has little ductility and so is prone to cracking as it cools. Not important on something like a digger bucket but a chipper anvil? Much easier to control heat treatment than welding stresses IMO. I may have misunderstood your original question but to clarify for others I'm sure it would be dangerous to hard face an originally hardened anvil. Neither hardface or a hardened anvil will have much ductility so cooling stress cracks will be present. Softer steel chosen to be hardfaced almost certainly will have a different composition and be able to absorb some of the welding stresses.

Best piece of advice I can give to anyone erecting a tunnel, is do not underestimate the importance of longitudinal strength. Presumably most would go for a single span as their first but multi spans are almost as easy, they just have a gutter down the middle supported by posts. When buying you have a choice of fixings and hoop shapes and sizes. It depends on the use required.Trenching works well with the sloping sided shapes, especially if you have a digger of some kind. A tunnel with upright sides makes good use of floor space and gives the chance of good side ventilation. Most aluminium clips are very quick to use but many can cut the polythene if not used correctly. Your chosen supplier will advise on which systems he can supply. Wooden battens are reliable and easy to use, but again practice makes perfect. Its all simple stuff and I'm sure plenty of advice would be given through this forum.

Providing you have enough help then the wind can actually help a little. Always pull into the wind and it will lift the poly over the hoops. Our nursery is on a very windy site so very few still days unfortunately. Over 30 sheets to maintain so we have to take our chance when we can. Best to cover at the end of the summer if possible. One less summers UV means virtually another years life from the sheet. We use scaffold tressles to batten the ends. I definitely would not advise unrolling first as that just increases the risk of damage. If you are not pulling into the wind a batten or long handled brush may be needed to lift the leading edge over the hoops.

Perhaps I should set up as a tunnel erector advisor. Nice little retirement job. Seriously though it is really quite easy if you go about it the right way. We work on a max wind speed of 12mph for small and 8mph for a large one which I would class as 40 to 50 metres long. Less wind means less pulling so as still as possible.

Working for a nursery we've done a few. (Hundred) First put a pole through the roll then rest the pole on something like stacks of pallets so it can unroll freely. With a person either side of the tunnel, pull the poly along the length. Batten one end then tension at the other. Tighter the better. Next work along the sides evenly tensioning from side to side. If you are digging in the poly, dig your trench about 200mm deep, put a little earth over the poly,lift,flap to tension from side to side. Increase the fill, turn poly back towards the tunnel then fill completely. Tunnel structure is very important and it must be able to take tension along the tunnel length.

Never had modern stuff like a 995. We did all ours with a T20 two furrow and a DB 950 with a 3 or 4 furrow. We also had another 950 with almost a ton of concrete on the back for a loader tractor.

And no chain brake if you go as far back as I do. One thing that focused your mind was the severe consequences if you made a mistake.

Only if they find it.

I doubt it very much. If you could get the tungsten carbide brazed on I expect it would be too brittle or would not adhere good enough. I don't know the steel used in chipper anvils but I suspect its a closely guarded secret. Must be hard but also tough enough to withstand the shock loads. Even if you could find a hard enough hard face material I expect it would put too much stress into the steel even with a padding layer. Distortion problems and stress cracks might result in an unexpected close look at some of your blades and anvil. Never worth the risk of something shattering.

Enquire about Newton estate between Pillaton and Callington while you are on the phone. I think they were cutting a year ago so might be too late but worth asking. Must have been a delay on my first reply. Thought it had gone.

Ask if they are cutting at Newton estate between Pillaton and Callington if that's closer. I think they were a year ago.

I would explain the law to her that it is legal to prune up to the boundary but not beyond. Also that you must be offered the arising but can refuse them as is normal. Mention that she should tell the pruner as well. She might not know these things so an easy first step without falling out.

A latch will drop out with a power cut as logrod says but also any safety devices fitted should do the same when a safety issue requires it. Again think very carefully about this as all will be bypassed.

Makes sense. The safety devices/switches I was thinking of might have been activated if a guard was removed. A lot of machines have these and are in series with the stop start circuit. If you have these it would have been a simple job to link them out to see if one had failed. Good luck.

Mick Depending how things are wired and what you have on your machine, if you have a stop /emergency stop it might not work with your switch. The start button latches a circuit then the stop breaks it. Might be worth checking out any safety devices that are on the machine as they could well be on the same circuit and causing your original problem. If you go with your switch check out what works and what doesn't before you have to rely on it.

I think you might be on shaky ground if he has a picture like that. It shows you are on the wrong side of the roundabout going against the arrow.

Would that be an arrow under your truck?