Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

cornish wood burner

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,500
  • Joined

Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Thanks Alec I was tempted with stainless. Possibly overkill but do it once and all that. The only thing that I am hesitant on is the coefficient of expansion. It will be part of a retort and quite severely constrained so if it expands more than the original then might give a distortion problem. I don't carry the figures in my head but I seem to remember from long ago that some stainless can expand quicker than lesser steels. I will need to research this.
  2. My special steel supplier has now been taken over and head office didn't offer any suggestions. I don't think Bristol offices are very interested in Cornwall. Probably 8x4 sheets would be the only option for boiler plate. Thickness is limited by the slot in the grates unfortunately.
  3. The steel or cast debate has reminded me that I need to source some steel plate to repair our large chip wood burner. The problem is the plate that supports the cast grates is corroded and buckled. Would the plate from a good quality stove manufacturer survive and would they sell me a piece assuming it would be good enough. It would run cooler than the cast grate but Im sure it needs to be better than mild steel.
  4. He doesn't have much idea about where to position a trailer axle for off road.
  5. Yes high grade steel is tougher, stronger and will stand shock loads better.However at high temperatures found in a stove cast iron expands less, corrodes less and as TGB said is more stable and should not distort.
  6. Grate in my Rayburn is 60 years old as are all the other cast iron bits. Still fine. I would be very surprised if any of the special steels that possibly are used in the better stoves would last that long.
  7. I used to think they had to have your agreement to keep your details but I think some companies seem to do it automatically. The AA caught me once as I had gone elsewhere and I thought the envelope just contained another one of their multitude of circulars. Turned out they just renewed my cover so I had double cover
  8. Council Tips/ recycling centres around here are more fussy. Had my 5ft 11 3/4 measured a few times. Only domestic waste but they seemed disappointed when it just complied. There was talk about banning trailers at their tips completely. Wouldn't dare take my 8 ft there.
  9. Hi scbk I was wondering if you have you a cunning plan to retrieve your nice new tandem pulley up the slope or just rely on pulling it with your retrieval rope by hand.
  10. Of course, thanks treequip. It obviously won't reduce the setup tension/sag but by running smoother it will reduce the potential high stresses caused by jerks and bounces.
  11. Have you enough extra capacity in your wood burner to fit a back boiler. You would need to pipe it to run to your DHW tank by thermal not pumped to allow for power cuts. Second burner and thermal store would not be cheap but you could run radiators off it then. 1st option might be worth it but unless you want extra heat you would struggle to justify the second.
  12. Do you mean a double line? It would double up on the strength but you need to pull evenly on each. Bit fiddly to set up I would think Your basic idea is OK I guess but you need to make sure you have no wear problem and your pulley needs to run smoothly. Any snatch or jam would increase the strain dramatically. Also consider what your tirfor will pull. Presumably you have no means to monitor this so I would suggest sizing your cable or rope SWL so it could take the full full from the winch. My concern with a small cable with a SWL of 500kg is that there are a few other factors that could increase the stress on the cable so if you need 4 or 500kgf of tension to support your load go higher on the SWL to allow a safety margin. When I was young I witnessed a steel cable breaking and believe me you don't want to risk that.
  13. Don't go to John Deere? Guess you already know that though.
  14. Exactly. Stress increases by the square of the speed so a little over speed can result in a bigger increase in stress of the rotating parts. I'm sure manufactures will have built in a considerable safety margin but 800rpm is eating into it.
  15. I think you are getting confused between the weight and the tension in the wire. The wire tension generates an upward vector to lift the 30kg. It also exerts a pull between the two anchors. The combination of these two is the wire tension which is what we should be concerned with. The OP didnt want to anchor 30 ft up a tree so typically we are talking around the 400kg of tension to generate an upward force of 30kg with a reasonable sag. If we add in the extra stresses due to movement etc then your cable is probably between its SWL and MBL. Not a good idea for a new cable let alone a secondhand one.
  16. What is the SWL of your 6mm cable? Its not so much the static load more the angle of the pull from the log. Cable inertia would be fairly insignificant, but the inertia of the log when travelling down the wire will increase the strain as it passes the maximum sag point so some safety margin should be included. Anything other than a smooth travel will also increase stress.
  17. If your machine is designed to run at 750rpm I would keep to that. 800 rpm is only 6% over max rpm but you will be increasing the stress by almost 14%.
  18. Obviously you will need to increase the tension for 100M or put up with more sag. If you need a different weight, tension or length its an easy calc.
  19. 400kg tension 30 kg drops less than a metre
  20. How much tension do you want on your rope?
  21. All my wood splits with 8 tonne. Remember if you only have a few pieces it fails on you could run the saw through them. £200 extra buys a lot of cutting. As kev says it depends on your wood.
  22. You've got me there what's a Pune ? Not familiar with the machine but I have changed hundreds of bearings so that was a general hint how to remove the remaining piece of a bearing. Apologies if too basic but are we talking about self aligning bearings. Normal method is to carefully clean the shaft with a piece of fine emery, grease the shaft and tap the inner with a softish piece of metal.
  23. Another Rayburn fan here. Cooked our lunch on it, now its busy heating the house. My wood is also free apart from my time and a little 2 stroke of course. Anyway power stations, I wonder if it has to be subsidised or do they just take it as its there. Our energy cost from wood is around 1p per kWh That should leave them some margin considering what electricity costs.
  24. If its just the inner remaining carefully grind it away in one spot until almost down to the shaft. Wear a face shield and give it a sharp hit with a hammer. Sledge behind as an anvil. The bearing should crack along the thin ground out portion. You could grind the other side to make it weaker. Once cracked it should just slide off
  25. That was before RHI payments. Total payback in under 4 years.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.