eldon
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Everything posted by eldon
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Engine on a hoist pulled forward so you don't have to disconnect everything and you can change the bits through the gap. Drop engine mounts off, rad out and exhaust disconnected. Have a look at the fluid level is it low? If so the fork has probably pierced (normal regular problem) and the system is now low on fluid due to the rod going further.
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I would suggest a 22 rf is needed by all people who have a use for one. I bought mine 20 years ago and its done me well. Subs and Lasers do all I need and as long as the range is kept sensible then it will perform ok. I did at one time have a hmr slot but after trying one against my 308 the wind drift was atrocious. It is all well and good people quoting 150 yards but any wind and its nigh on useless. For better advice from here, why don't you expand on what you will be using it for and the area concerned as rats in a garden is altogether different to pigeons in a barn?
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Brake squeal on a Landrover.............. don't worry it won't last long as the hub seals will start leaking and that seems to cure it well!!!
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Se7enthdevil no you didn't dream it. Fuel blending in the UK is illegal I think but in other places (possibly canada) up to 10% of petrol in diesel acts like an antifreeze and decreases the waxing phenomenon. Diesel even if a tiny bit in petrol kills the idle and subjects you to stalling or reving at junctons. Years ago I had a 3.5 V8 Rangie and being a thirsty beast I used a number of customers wrongly filled/drained fuel to add to my usual tank as a sort of dilutant. This was real hit and miss and although it didn't damage anything the idle was all over from normal to stall.
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Edwood; suggest a "viable" alternative to Lead then?
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Anything has got to be better than the diy range Karcher! Karchers apparently are definitely in two camps; diy units and proper ones. You need to spend quite a bit to get into the better units. I was going to get a Nilfisk and went to a pressure washer dealer (just pressure washers and related nothing else). Had a decent chat with him and ended up with an old recond Karcher that had the brass pump internals, far better than their later stuff.
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Interesting thread. When I had only had my 261 for a short while I fueled and oiled it in the garage. However when I got to the woodpile and looked back my route was obvious and the oil tank was empty!!!! I just assumed I hadn't put the cap back but reading this thread now makes me wonder. Never had a problem since but that time I was sure I had put it back but the facts said otherwise.
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I have a 261 and I'm planning on doing an annual clutch bearing swop (£10), will this cover the uncertainty of this issue or do I need to do anything else?
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It sounds like the cams in the brake drums ( brake going forwards, unlock when forced the opposite way) are sticking a little when the brakes work harder (loaded). Knock the drums off and just check the spindles on the cams are free to rotate and have some lubrication.
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Yes await a re-try so camping out maybe the answer.
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Keep at it Sean you are making progress we can all see that although it may not be so clear you whose in the situation. All the best, oh and a simple Velcro strap for your legs maybe the answer in the car.
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Certainly looks interesting. I will read in more detail when I have time but a couple of questions/things I would check out; can it be powered by a local battery supply or just its own i.e. motorhomes, this would avoid any tracker charges. How impervious to water and dirt is it i.e. could be good for off road motorcycles.
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and yes I did give it some knots to play with and like I say I was impressed. Longevity; now that could be the issue as let's be honest its not the most expensive unit out there.
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A friend has this unit and I must say it was neither slow or under powered. It impressed me with its ability and even my mate said "pick anything around here and it will sort it?" I chose a butt that was around 20" diameter and it did it no problem. The levers offer two positions, first part of travel its on quick traverse/low power, 2nd part its on main power/so slower travel. Easy starter. Horizontal is better than vertical as both hands can be free. Bad points; Yes working height struck me as low especially if you were a tall chap. The levers come loose and rattle. Spares maybe an issue so ask Machine mart before purchase.
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Can you post a link for these for further consideration?
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I often use a friends Kubota garden tractor with a nice homemade flail on the back. The weight makes the thing unstable and the power demands lead to a boil up every half hour or so if worked too hard. Not sure a quad would be a good solution as the mini tractor struggles and that's probably a lot more suitable than a quad.
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That comment needs treating with caution and reading in its entirety! Yes you can use any rope but the elongation/stretch is something to be taken very very seriously. Imagine an elastic bungy strap being pulled until it snapped against your body! Ouch.... yes that is the predicament you could find yourself in if the stretch went past its UTS. How do I know this ..... well years ago I had a Landrover and put a capstan winch on the front. As you I thought I would save a few quid and use a poly propylene rope that I already had. One day pulling a tree out of a bank the rope snapped and promptly disappeared, missing me by inches, through the radiator ............. Needless to say I bought the correct rope ....... after spending a few quid on a new radiator
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They are a good unit only limited by the scratch start. Do you need high frequency start? Probably not unless you are doing things that are on show i.e. reception counters etc. I have used one of these and find them very good. This is a D.C. unit and so is far smoother than the older A.C. sets and easier to operate. Far better with one of these than the older units although the Oxford oil filled units do last forever. I have an Rtech 200 amp ac/dc unit at home although I don't use it for stick (mma) as I have a separate Oxford one for that. Give us some idea of what you are going to do with it and I might be able to advise further?
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Same here up in Yorkshire too.
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I think you're taking the p155.... lol Could be a good design exercise though.
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M Large Present the Brand New Hakki Pilke CS1000
eldon replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
I've used a friends chainsaw processor; what are the pro's and con's for a circular saw item over a chainsaw one? -
I suppose it depends how hard you work it and how long you want the investment to last you. I am an occasional user for home firewood so bought a ms251 thinking this was top of the diy range it would be ideal. After a month the single bar clamping bolt pulled out of the casing. Reading up it appears that ALL single bolt saws are a poor engineering solution. I managed to return the saw in px against a new ms261 and this was a big step forward. The build was in a different class and has so far provided a good solution. I anticipate changing the needle bearing (£10) once a year so as to avoid the crank problems others have experienced. A ms 261 does blow your budget a bit but a less expensive saw might not be the answer.
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Having been a land rover enthusiast in the past and spent many an hour mending the things I would say your budget isn't adequate for a reliable business vehicle. Comparatively you can get a nice Transit with the money available. If you need, and can justify, a 4x4 then get one but otherwise you may, as a new business, end up being swamped by the time and money spent on keeping one on the road. Land rovers can be good; but a "good and cheap" land rover doesn't exist!
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Was waiting for the landing (curious) so a shame that bit was cut.
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Definitely an inspiration Sean, being following this throughout. Loved your positivity with regard to the Kayak comment but you could do things on land with something as simple as adding a quad to your toolbox. All the best and upmost respect to you.
