CallumA
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Everything posted by CallumA
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you should have a flow control on the spool itself. and as mentioned above no restriction return into back end. I had this on a log splitter and i had to remove the return line fitting out of the spool valve (1/2"BSP) and behind it was a port with a 3/8"BSP which i had to plug which stopped the oil flowing through the spool valve all the time! This changed it from an open center spool to closed center! You would need to find the spool manufacturer and find out if you can do this or you may need a new section to your spool valve (if sectional) The valve i did the change on was a Bucher valve (from Flowfit)
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It has its moments
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BBQ shed made with spruce and creosote coated, I love the colour of as it fades. The carving we got at Longleat years ago when on holiday. Still have to put on the boards at the end and half of one side to break the wind
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just discovered him when looking for a carb mod for the saw! now love watching his YouTube channel, the wealth of knowledge the guy has is incredible.
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Well update on the 3120xp, drilled out high jet on carb + 0.1mm (Scoured American/Canadian sites and found a guy Donny Walker who says remove high jet and find drill that fits through the jet and then go one size bigger) This will also make the saw run a bit rich! which I guess is no bad thing lying on its side all the time milling. Also lowered the inlet 3* to 70* and total 140* polished as well. Widened the exhaust and polished. Modded the exhaust Runs like a good un
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using red line racing oil (smells nice as well) The piston and cylinder got a little scoring when the main bearing failed. Spudulike is there a carb mod for making the H adjustable? I guess I'll just polish the ports and stick an extra pipe or two in the exhaust and see how she does. Also changing the air filter to foam as getting a load of fines in the carb intake with the fabric filter (filter p/n 503141802 and filter cage p/n 503141601)
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As the title says! saw would not idle and very low compression. removed exhaust and low and behold piston scored up and jug is junk. So fitting a new jug and meteor piston. For all you chainsaw gurus is there any advantage to lowering the intake and polishing the exhaust and inlets on the new cylinder prior to fitting? The timing numbers are exhaust 98*, inlet 67* (total 134*), Blowdown 18* and squish with gasket 0.028". the inlet seems a bit low compared to the 390xp which is 150* total (with no base gasket). Also with the saw always on its side should I change the oil ratio from 50:1 to say 45:1 as already had flywheel bearing failed and wondered if it was due to position of saw in mill or would more oil of helped. I've attached pics of piston and cylinder and also the position of saw in mill (picture shows the 390xp) Always ready to learn from my and others mistakes and experiences.
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its a home made design but based on a king post truss and was going to be a sissor truss but I thought the parrallel 8x8 and 6x8 would be strong enough (plus too many angles to workout)! it wont be sitting on the walls inside the shed i will have 5 x 12x12 posts each side and a 12x12 top plate with 6x6 braces and braced onto the trusses so hopefully it stays square! the roof will be box profile, the notches on the rafter are for 3x6 purlins. Hope to get it up this year but the wife may think the funds are needed for something else!
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Make your own trusses. Few sticks milled to 8" x 8" and a few hours and span of 6.2m. just need the time to put up on the shed behind in the picture to raise the roof and allow enough clearance for the tractor and possibly 2 post ramp. Will be sitting on 12" x 12" posts and top plate with 6 x 6 knee braces. Hope it works and is strong enough!!
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I bought a pop up piston kit for my 390 and this was the cylinder! To be fair I contacted supplier and they sent out a new kit FOC and didnt want the old kit back, so i now have a spare piston
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Get a grenade log splitter from screw fix or tool station and hammer in to log about 4"in from Edge of round and work toward the center
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Getting sick of it now 27" and more forecast. Also strong winds forecast so should make quite a mess
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Same here Stubby the auto close one jams in the older saws with the littler oil filler
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I got that supplied with my can as well as the 2 push type
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True insperation too us all Rip Sir Tom
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The cheapest bucket edges I found was from Whites Material handing
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Be very careful not to compress the timber going through the knife. I made a 28 way for a 60 ton spiltter and it was great on straight grained stuff but when it jammed it took ages to clear it. Ended up scrapping it and making an 18 way. So much better but still a bugger when it jams. Only use it for sticks over 20" now as its not height adjustable so loads of small stuff with smaller clogs.
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4" snow and seems it's the only thing that's right with 2020
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Always fed the ferrets on rabbit so it was nothing special if the rabbits wouldn't bolt and the ended up killing one. A mate fed his on saps (milk and bread) and often had to dig them out.
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Buy one to match what your cutting
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My dad built a stick shed with spruce 30 years ago and creosoted it and the boards are as fresh as the day they went up
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Hobby is all it'll be for. The wife wants to turn some bowls. So if she likes it then may buy a proper lathe. It'll also be handy with the bandsaw and jointer.
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Does any one have or used a Shopsmith V, just bought one with the band saw, scroll saw and jointer attachments. Just wondering if its a jack of all trades and master of none! Or is it good and accurate at most things. It seems that there is adjustment to true up most things.
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Just go in and speak to them and explain. I did this at my local garage as the pump kicks out at £100 so I hang up the nozzle after 4 cans (80lts) and then start again to fill the other two. They are quite understanding and realised that I could make 6 trips or just let me get 120 lts all at once
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Fill up at the local shell station and fill 4 to 6 Jerry cans at a time (metal) don't go to supermarkets as they have to stick by the rules.
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