Logjam

From AFAG401 Climbing ropes Select ropes to provide a high margin of safety. Ropes suitable for tree climbing need to have a minimum diameter of 10mm and are not normally larger than 14mm. When selecting a rope, carefully consider the compatibility of any friction hitches or mechanical devices used.

If yours is only 5 months old hopefully it should have all the mods. Earlier models have had a couple of software updates to try & resolve dpf regen issues. Common fault with over enthusiastic blocked fuel filter warning light, there have been two filter re-designs to fix but not sure they've got it right yet. Ours still lights up occasionally (2012 model). Oil dipstick re-designed, not sure why, maybe so you don't notice the oil level rising 😕

The 4x4 on the new models is not supposed to need a limited slip diff. Explained in this Isuzu D-Max 4x4 Drive Train System Demo:

Not just arb; recommended for all chainsaw operators Chainsaws at Work Indg317 (top of page 6 in pdf)

Nicholsons should be able to sort you out, have their own nursery as well.

Don't think it's hardy outdoors in UK. See RBG Kew

PS - why the unclipped harness buckle?

I'd say not uncommon branch buttressing for the species, possibly exaggerated by the dead areas. Die back along top of branches not that unusual on pollards, somebody with more knowledge than me might be able to provide an explanation. Guess it might be due to sap wood drying out after cutting. Wouldn't recommend removing the branches as not included in TPO consent. Can only do minimum works to make safe if considered an imminent hazard - re-pollarding will presumably remove any immediate risk of failure, can then decide on future management.

Try these: Husqvarana channel on YouTube Husqvarna website & have a look for the chainsaw tutorials as Arran said NPTC website has qualification & worksheet downloads Drivelink blogspot (by Dave Vickers - Arbtalk member)

CTS - from the Husqvarna sharpening link in your post "It is important that all the cutting teeth are of equal length".

Assessment requirement is for the chain to be sharpened to manufacturer recommendations - this will state cutters of equal, identical, or same length depending on where you look. Any variance from this is down to individual assessor/ trainer discretion. Could depend on the chain pitch & wear, 1mm difference on a new chain might be an error of around 10% but on a well worn chain could be more than 20% (both excessive IMO). This doesn't just affect kick back but vibration & cutting performance. CC - don't think you're OTT, 0-0.5mm variance sounds a lot better than 1-1.5mm.

Not sure a maillon will do the job. The original attachment ring is designed to keep the webbing strap flat. Maillon will probably distort & crease the webbing no matter which shape as there won't be anything to keep it in correct alignment.

Anchor hitch is good & secure but needs enough space on krab to accommodate wraps.

Also says its a reliable knot so what to believe. Included in The Tree Climber's Companion, Jeff Jepson & Tree Climbers Knotbook, Dirk Lingens as suitable anchor hitch for climbing. Jepson advises against using it for rigging as it can jam tight & be difficult to untie. Lingens cautions that it is easy to make a mistake with this knot so ensure you can tie it correctly & consistently & always test load. I've been using it for years with no problems, works well with hitchclimber as its very compact & the end of the rope exits at right angles to the working rope which helps to avoid it catching the hitch. With a fishermans the tail exits back up the rope & more likely to interfere with the hitch.

Yes hitch will work but need to be careful not to defeat the point of having a wire flipline. I know of climbers that have had bad accidents after cutting through the hitch (no pulley). Rope grab with shortest possible soft link is a safer option. If using a hitch keep it short, depending how its tied VT can be too long.

Had a similar thing on an older transit. Arrived at job & parked in customers drive, when it was time to go the engine turned over fine but wouldn't start. After calling out local garage discovered timing belt had snapped. Not sure about newer engines but another possibility.

Prussik hitch is fine & there will be plenty of other competitors using a prussik. There is a slightly confusing rule about hitches which basically says you can not descend with a hitch on a static line. If hitch is used as part of a doubled rope system then no problem. Enjoy your climb & ask lots of questions. There will be a lot of experienced climbers at the comp & trade stands that will be happy to provide advice on alternative climbing knots & set ups.

From manufacturers - CE standards were updated some years ago, any items requiring unique ID must now be marked by the manufacturer & end users should no longer engrave hardware as was the case prior to the CE changes. If you need additional marks these should be done with tape, paint or varnish as some have suggested. Extract from DMM user instructions: "16.1. For the product to remain in service it must pass a visual and tactile inspection when considering the following criteria: fall arrest, general wear, chemical contamination, corrosion, mechanical malfunction/ deformation, cracks, loose rivets etc ............... clear and readable marking (e.g. marking, batch reference, individual serial numbers etc)." If the original markings are no longer legible the item should be retired from service. I also have emails from manufacturers confirming the above. There may be agreement off the record that engraving the gate will not affect strength but the CE standards do not permit hardware to be engraved by users. This would require yet another standard to detail exactly how items should be engraved. If users stop purchasing karabiners with markings that wear off too quickly I'm sure manufacturers will soon get the message. If as a LOLER inspector you choose to pass items that have been engraved you need to understand you will be operating outside of the manufacturers recommendations. Unless of course you can get something in writing that sanctions engraving.

All new karabiners etc must now be marked with unique ID by manufacturer & should not be engraved, on the gate or anywhere else.

It does, just need to leave the legs a bit longer but for someone trying it for the first time the shorter the better.

Fishermans to secure the cord to the karabiner, most pre-made eye to eye cords are too long for the knut. Can customise to how you like it if you use knots. If coming from prussik loops to HC & eye 2 eye the shorter the tails the quicker it bites & less sit back, should feel more secure until you get used to it but won't self tend as well as with longer tails or VT. When you've tied everything load it up to tighten the knots & then work out as much of the slack as poss & repeat. I've used buntline hitches in the photo, find them easier to undo if you need to adjust, also tails go out to the sides instead of back up the line so helps to get the biner really close, good for novice converts. Knut.jpg

Been splitting firewood for next winter. Pickeroon is great for pulling rings out of the stack & onto the splitting block, less bending & more efficient. Don't do alot of brash dragging these days but had a play with a few bundles on site, also works well.

No 3ATC at Woodfest Wales this year. http://3atc.trees.org.uk/event-booking-and-registration/ Southern student comp was today & northern student on 21st May. Only open events are at the Arb Show.

More effective to treat the causes of your pain than the symptoms. Good to hear you're already using efficient climbing systems. If you think it might be use of heavy saws try to reduce the strain on your elbows, sometimes possible to use separate tool line to help with weight of a large saw. Even hanging the saw on other side of your harness can make a difference so the other arm takes more of the strain. I'm yet to be convinced about the efficacy of arnica although I know plenty that swear by it, for every report in favour there will be another with a counter opinion. http://saveyourself.ca/articles/arnica.php. Seems a lot of the benefit might come from the regular massage as you rub the stuff in.

+1 for http://www.treetech.co.nz/ quite a lot of ex pat Brits & lot of work on.