Logjam

From manufacturers - CE standards were updated some years ago, any items requiring unique ID must now be marked by the manufacturer & end users should no longer engrave hardware as was the case prior to the CE changes. If you need additional marks these should be done with tape, paint or varnish as some have suggested. Extract from DMM user instructions: "16.1. For the product to remain in service it must pass a visual and tactile inspection when considering the following criteria: fall arrest, general wear, chemical contamination, corrosion, mechanical malfunction/ deformation, cracks, loose rivets etc ............... clear and readable marking (e.g. marking, batch reference, individual serial numbers etc)." If the original markings are no longer legible the item should be retired from service. I also have emails from manufacturers confirming the above. There may be agreement off the record that engraving the gate will not affect strength but the CE standards do not permit hardware to be engraved by users. This would require yet another standard to detail exactly how items should be engraved. If users stop purchasing karabiners with markings that wear off too quickly I'm sure manufacturers will soon get the message. If as a LOLER inspector you choose to pass items that have been engraved you need to understand you will be operating outside of the manufacturers recommendations. Unless of course you can get something in writing that sanctions engraving.

All new karabiners etc must now be marked with unique ID by manufacturer & should not be engraved, on the gate or anywhere else.

It does, just need to leave the legs a bit longer but for someone trying it for the first time the shorter the better.

Fishermans to secure the cord to the karabiner, most pre-made eye to eye cords are too long for the knut. Can customise to how you like it if you use knots. If coming from prussik loops to HC & eye 2 eye the shorter the tails the quicker it bites & less sit back, should feel more secure until you get used to it but won't self tend as well as with longer tails or VT. When you've tied everything load it up to tighten the knots & then work out as much of the slack as poss & repeat. I've used buntline hitches in the photo, find them easier to undo if you need to adjust, also tails go out to the sides instead of back up the line so helps to get the biner really close, good for novice converts. Knut.jpg

Been splitting firewood for next winter. Pickeroon is great for pulling rings out of the stack & onto the splitting block, less bending & more efficient. Don't do alot of brash dragging these days but had a play with a few bundles on site, also works well.

No 3ATC at Woodfest Wales this year. http://3atc.trees.org.uk/event-booking-and-registration/ Southern student comp was today & northern student on 21st May. Only open events are at the Arb Show.

More effective to treat the causes of your pain than the symptoms. Good to hear you're already using efficient climbing systems. If you think it might be use of heavy saws try to reduce the strain on your elbows, sometimes possible to use separate tool line to help with weight of a large saw. Even hanging the saw on other side of your harness can make a difference so the other arm takes more of the strain. I'm yet to be convinced about the efficacy of arnica although I know plenty that swear by it, for every report in favour there will be another with a counter opinion. http://saveyourself.ca/articles/arnica.php. Seems a lot of the benefit might come from the regular massage as you rub the stuff in.

+1 for http://www.treetech.co.nz/ quite a lot of ex pat Brits & lot of work on.

Plenty of info on web, this provides good explanation of anatomy, causes of pain & potential solutions http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=a00068 In my experience rest & avoidance of the repetitive movements that contribute to pain are key. I'm right handed & also had similar problems in the past. Good tip that proved effective for me was to sleep with elbow joint straight (wrap a towel or similar round your elbow & secure with safety pin or velcro strap) this relieves pressure on tendons & rests the joint while you sleep. Don't expect instant results but if you're lucky, pain should gradually reduce over 1 - 2 weeks. Try & identify causal activities & adapt to minimise elbow bend & loading on joint. If you're a climber conventional body thrust with prussik is particularly bad, as is one handed chainsaw use. Using foot ascender as much as possible when climbing & hitch climber vt or similar can help. I'm sure others will be along with their experiences as it's a common problem in our industry.

Link to Petzl statement. http://www.petzl.com/files/all/all/communication-zigzag/ZIGZAG-information-080414-EN.pdf Obviously your choice but seems a bit premature to advise against using it.

Skideroon arrived this morning, many thanks, should get a chance to use it over the weekend. Will post feedback when I've had a play.

Seen quite a lot of the newer harnesses that have plastic labels with missing ID numbers. If the label gets pulled out of the little storage pouch while you're climbing they can break off & disappear. Poor design. Spoke to Petzl & they said it would be acceptable to attach home made label, providing it matches with paperwork. So better find that original serial number from the invoice. Sent from my SIM implant.

Have been travelling to Europe for years with my kit, never had a problem on ferries or tunnel. Don't drain tanks but put saws in separate box to contain any leaks. Been through plenty of security checks, not an issue, more petrol & oil in vehicles. Sent from my SIM implant.

jarnii - the Steins are bit lighter than my old Stretch Airs & reinforced in all the right places for climbing, good fit for me & comfortable. Pfanner have new designs that have similar specs, so may not be that much in it if comparing current offerings. T/chestnut seems to like his Ventilators.

+1 for Stein Krieger. Previous pair were Stretch Airs with longer leg but prefer the Steins.

The basic techniques manual (Part 1) is on the Husqvarna support website with links to their Youtube videos. The advanced manual (Part 2) is supposed to be on the website later this year. Otherwise C&G/NPTC assessors & assessment centres can order the books from NPTC. Ask your assessor or training provider they should be able to supply them.

Have a look at the list of centres on the NPTC website & try a few a few within travel distance. They will be matching candidates to assessors all the time & should be able to get you sorted. Would advise spending a day or two with an instructor though to make sure you are up to speed with all the techniques you will be required to demonstrate. Sent from my SIM implant.

Assisted fell may be required if using a rope or winch, assessment requires candidate to demonstrate: •1 rope – tree up to 380mm •1 winch/machine– tree over 380mm 302 (CS32) Felling & processing trees over 380mm Depends, in the context of felling qualifications, whether a stem with no branches is still a tree? To turn it around, if you have been assessed felling a stem with no branches would this qualify you to fell a tree with a full crown? CS44 Fell standing stems - Yes:thumbup:, introduced in recognition that CS32 was not appropriate or necessary to fell a stem. CS44 no longer available & has no current equivalent, possibly because so few people took the assessment. How many people do you know who have CS44 or how often do you it see stated as a requirement in a job advert?

Good luck with Body Language of Trees, trading hands for silly money now it's out of print. Just try Amazon search. Sent from my SIM implant.

Definitely the way to go if you want to get into climbing work. If you want to keep your feet on the ground then maybe go for the felling over 380mm qualification. Windblown trees is separate qualification, not included with felling. Have a look at NPTC website for details of current qualifications. Sent from my SIM implant.

IMO CS32 is not required to fell a stem over 380mm if crown has already been removed. No crown, so no need to assess crown weight, balance, wind etc, not the same as felling complete tree. Sent from my SIM implant.

Not just my interpretation, came from discussions with the HSE, long time ago but don't see any reason why it would be different now. Felling over 380mm qualification requires whole tree to felled with intact crown using maximum 380mm guide bar & also includes take down of hung up tree with a winch. If all or part of the crown has already been removed the tree would not be suitable for the assessment. The dismantling qualification might be more relevant for an arb as it is likely that some limbs would have needed to be lowered. Sent from my SIM implant.

If you section down & just fell the stem there is no need for larger than 380mm qualification. Only required if you will be felling whole tree in one without removing crown. Sent from my SIM implant.

Might be able to help - sent PM

Unit 10 - maintaining the chain saw Unit 11 - Felling, de-limbing & cross-cutting trees less than guide bar length (450mm/18") Would have been an NPTC assessor but these units are no longer accepted as pre-requisites for the current qualifications. Unit 11 didn't include the take down of hung up trees (separate unit 14) which is now a mandatory part of tree felling qualification. Nearest current equivalents: Chainsaw maintenance & cross-cutting Felling & processing trees up to 380mm - NB see comment about hung up trees above