Wood-be

I'm no structural engineer but have seen the effects of trees being felled to close to houses. That tree is far enough away to cause.any damage to the house or wall. The only issue there will be is the increased water content to the soil after the tree has been felled. Especially during the summer. Nothing to worry about really. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Cheeky in deed. The owners of the garden kept coming out with tea when we asked for coffee!!!!!! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Fair enough cheers kevinjohnsonmbe. People do like to find fault in other people's work. I was only making the point that the public can't be trusted to keep them selves safe. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

We had permission from the council as it was storm damaged so the council said that cones and tape are fine we looked at the job the evening before. Tied the broken stem to itself and the tree it was hung up in and the golf course deployed a make shift barrier and notice for the night. We then closed the footpath and carried on with the work in the morning. Picture of said stem Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

How did they find out it was a dummy bomb? Didn't the bomb disposal people blow it up! Surely if it was a dummy bomb the guy who put there would of said so and if it was a dummy why did they blow it up!!!!!!!!!!!!! I recon something does smell fishy. But if it was real fair play the security team did well and the training payed off. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Why what happened? Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

We did follow the correct procedures. We had cones next to cones and tape laced between them the path way was only 8ft wide and was bordered by 6ft fences onside and the line of cypresses (which are used to protect the houses from stray golf balls) on the other we diverted the foot path to the other side of the tree line and shut the 9th hole for the day. Every member of the public read the signs and followed the diversion bar him. I did everything from my side risk assessments and method statements and signage. I spoke to my insurance company after and they said that if he had to break or move the barrier and you could prove it and something went wrong to him then I would of been covered. The point I was making was you can't trust the public/client to stay safe you have to make sure they are safe by removing them from the unsafe situation. It may seem rude but as a previous guy mentioned send them off to the mark one water boiler and get a brew on! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I did a job for a golf course where a large Leyland cypress had lost 60% of it stem to storm winds. It was over a public footpath. I had enough cones and tape to make a physical barrier to stop anything going down the foot path. I even put a taped divervision path in all signed ect. (more cones and tape than actuall tools in the truck) half way through and with the main stem stripped back and about to lower the now disconnected stem, which was making our 16mm ropes make funny noises never heard before on the stein rc3000 lowering devices (near maxing the system) my grounds man and I were just about start lowering it and I had to shout stop (as my groundie was in the neighbouring garden behind the fence on the other rigging line) as a member of the public moved the cones and broke the tape and casually walked up the path. I politely said to stop as this has been cordoned off for your saftey as we are just about to lower this large and very heavy branch. His response "you can't stop me from walking along a public footpath". He just walked on underneath the branch. I was absolutely fuming. He came back but this time the branch was on the floor and he walked round it. I had to ask him why he was walking around the branch his response "do you expect me to climb over that, don't be stupid" I just said "that says it all thank you you had to climb over the protective barrier to walk through I just thought you might like to climb over the branch aswell". From then on I have piled brash on the path aswell as well as the cones and tape to make an impassable barrier. never trust the public or clients and try to never have them anywhere near the work zone. they may be a doctor or a judge but they can still be stupid. Just be careful and you may have to be rude to ultimately keep them safe. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I have had various tractors, diggers, boats ect with kabota engines and they have all never missed a heart beat (that's a lie, I broke the sump nut of a compact tractor on a rock and didn't realise until I came back along the track and came to a slow and painful stop whilst looking at the black skid mark on the track. Learnt to not break the sump nut off that day) don't want to tell you to suck eggs but have you hovered out the radiator it may just be a bit blocked! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Exactly, if you put the boards straight in a kiln it will defect, I have heard that people have there kiln at 18-20 degrees and put boards in for weeks (I guess) then slowly bring the temp up. (I guess this is during the winter) I personally have a solar kiln so I have to air drie everything first then kiln over the summer. Atleast it's free but a bit of forward planning tho. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

In my 12 years experience of being a joiner/cabinet maker/tree surgeon cedar will crack and check if stuck straight in the kiln. You will need to air drie it. I would drie it over a summer then kiln it. It's up to you but if you do kiln it green you will lose a foot at each end so you 5 foot boards will be 3 ft. Good luck Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

You will need to air drie them first! Or otherwise they will twist, cup, check and split. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

If your ready worried could you tie into another tree? Or better still tie into to two trees either side of dawn redwood or swamp cypress (not sure my self)? I have climbed a couple of dead trees and tied into another tree. Relatively simple that way. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

It always sucks when the client isn't forth coming with tea and coffee. Mind you nothing worse than when you are waiting for the morning coffee and you think they have forgotten so you get in the tree and get to the top for the client to come out with the coffee! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Umm all the mewp I have used have a battery backup. I.e you can always get down if you run out of fuel. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I would put an application in to have a tpo placed on it. Give it 5 years and re prune. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Not sure if people have understood the question. A single karabiner is possible to tight so I would suggest either another karabiner or a pully. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

We have some air seasoned mulberry and have enquired at the local sawmill who have wood turning blanks for sale and they are selling a 16" x 6" blank (16" being the diameter) for £30. How many 6" logs could you get out of that mulberry? Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I hope you kept the mulberry logs they are worth a fortune to wood turners. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I would cut the ivy and try and remove all of it from the tree. You will get a better idea of shape and health when it's gone. Good luck Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Personally I always go level or above. I recon, if you cut below the gob then if it hangs up when felling there could be the potential it could skid off the stump backwards and do damage. If you cut above then you are making a physical step for the stem to jump up! Before it can skid backwards. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Umm I must be missing something. If you have a rope with a karabiner on the end and a malion or another karabiner on it its still metal on rope where the malion or extra karabiner is attached, so why not just use one karabiner on the end. Don't see the point of that knot less kit as I can't see how it is reducing the wear and time compared to just one steel karabiner. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I have just done the same sort of job. I cleared the stem up as high as wanted to then felled the top. Nothing to out of the ordinary but I was able to sort of make a groove in the brash so when I felled the standing stems they would just sit nicely in the groove. You could of placed all the brash as so it would of acted as a stop so the stems wouldn't roll down the bank. Looks like you have a nice veiw from the office window! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I personally think a rubber/foam mat by its self is a bad idea as it's too flexable. I recon some one should make a 'crash mat' which comprises of a tough fabric top layer (like what a trampoline is made from) 2" of rubberised foam and then a ply or a plastic alternative base. I recon that's what you are after. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

We use ply sheets for shed roofs, green houses ect. I think the rubber matting is a good idea but isn't the point to the ply sheets to have something that is hard so what ever hits it it doesn't go through it and just bounces off! I can see having the rubber mat underneath probably a good idea but I think sticking with ply would be a safer bet! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk