Wood-be
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Everything posted by Wood-be
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Those are pretty rotten. Your not going to get much out of that. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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I would say that's 50/50. It doesn't look too out of balance from the photo so could go either way but if it fails above the lowest branch then it will definitely go onto the road. I took a large cherry down years ago over power lines and a minor road. When we felled the stem I told my groundsman I bet there is a hole in its ass as it smelt rotten whilst i was dismantling it. There was about an inch to a inch and a half holding it up. It was full of mush!. The tree was healthy apart from a couple of dead limbs and a bunch of old prunning cuts. No honey fungus or brackets could be seen and when i hit it. It sounded alright. So I don't trust them that much so in my opinion I would have it down for safety and plant a new one. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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What is the best wee chipper out there to buy?
Wood-be replied to Wood-be's topic in Large equipment
Looks good, nice and clean. What is the trailer it's on? Is it a roller trailer or have you built it? Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk -
What is the best wee chipper out there to buy?
Wood-be replied to Wood-be's topic in Large equipment
Hi thanks for the info, just looked at the jo beau m500. Nearly had a heart attack at how much they are. You can get a proper chipper for not that much more. Looked good tho very versatile. I guess the difference between them and a traked chipper would be a better way of looking at the price. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk -
I'm looking at buying either a normal powered chipper that can take wood up to 4"ish and I can push onto the trailer or a pto powered chipper for a 18hp Kabouta tractor. I would be great full for any thoughts Cheers Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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I don't get on with srt. It's brilliant for pines ect and when your on your spikes as you don't need to faff so much with ascender ect. I found a karabiner on a small 4 wrap prusik before you head out on the branch and put the tail (if your using the hitch climbing pulley) thru and spare karabiner/tool clip on the hitch climber. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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I see, thought you were going to use it for veneers in cabinet work or tables or something. In my experience as a cabinet maker/joiner and tree surgeon horse chestnut is a bitch to dry out without cracking, twisting, cupping ect and when you work it it's soft and snipes badly. But never worked with horse chestnut burrs. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Why do you want horse chestnut? It's awful! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Isn't that just pippy oak. I have milled out loads of planks like that and it is mainly from where the stem has a lot of epicormic growth which is trimmed periodically throughout its life. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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From my experience of the public climbing over barrier tape whilst removing a storm damaged branch over a public footpath I can safely say that of the public are doctors they are still f-ing stupid. I recon private land signs at all points of access and forestry operation signs aswell. If you are feeling trees near paths then you may want to put a barrier up (soothing that they have to physically climb over or remove to get through) saying tree felling. You then have covered your self. Also make sure you have insurance. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Mixed what? Hardwood and softwood or all hardwood? If it is hardwood what is the mix? Probably birch and willow to get £130. I sell kiln dried logs all mixed hardwood but at the mo mainly ash for 1m = £80 2m =£150 and 3m = £215. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Hello all, I have had a loot at some of the threads in this forum and you are all quite the carvers. So we have just taken down a large Scots pine and have milled some of it but have left the base to be carved. The client is open to suggestions on design but we would like it if you could show us some pictures of your work then I can pass them to the client and go from there! I have attached a photo I took this afternoon and you can obviously see the stem we have left. Pm me if you interested Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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They had so much dead wood in it was a bit tedious but well worth doing. Don't you have to use 316 stainless steel or can you get away with hot dipped galvanised steel for the bar and bolts? It would be a bit of a shitter if the drill snaps half way through! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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I have seen it done before but always thought it more damaging to the tree than cobra. At least with cobra you can inspect the whole sytem. How would you drill a hole about 6 ft up the truck and about 5ft long hole? This picture is of the first yew which has the most bracing. This is the one with the static brace in it. The damaged union goes from just above ground level to about 5-7 ft up (can't quite remember) you can see the leading stem and the damaged stem is behind that. how would you drill a hole 5ft deep in a yew? Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Cobra is designed to do both to a degree. You can buy a static bracing system which is used for this exact reason. If you have a broken union you pull the two stems back together and bit more then install the brace and slacken off the stems. The bracing will take the weight of the stems. The only thing is nobody stocks that bracing system so using the normally bracing system without the black dong thing works just as well. The cables were something like 10-12mm thick cable. One was screwed in with big coach bolts and the other was bolted through. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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The union was right at the bottom of the tree. The force on the bar would just snap it. The stems had managed to snap two steel cables which were below the static brace which we had fitted. The whole point of the bracing is not to drill holes into the tree. We try to avoid drilling bars into trees if we can avoid it! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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The black dongs were used on the branches but not on the two main stems because of the poor union at the base. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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We only just had enough sheath for the whole job. The brace between the two large stems doesn't have an absorber as we had to winch the two stems together due to a very poor union at the base. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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In the instructions it says they are a visual aide. These are so you can see if the splice has moved I.e they shrink in size if the bracing and the splice is overloaded. Without these the splices can also come undone. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Hi all, we were dead wooding and fitting cobra bracing to three 800 year old yew trees for the national trust. Whilst we were there we couldn't help but notice a beautiful cedar in the grounds with cobra bracing in it. Looking closely the previous tree surgeon has made a complete pigs ear with it. Have a look at the photos and see what you think. This is our attempt. Quite simple really. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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I see. It's always a bit interesting when you have to cut a large top out. That's where having a trusted grounds man is the key. How do you get on with the stihl top 201 I have the husky. Had to send it back outside its warranty as the gasket on the crankcase split! But they sorted it out even tho it was 6 months out side it's warranty. Can't complain about husquvarna. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Why were there two of you up the tree? Were you training the other chap? He seamed to hold on for dear life when he cut that branch off! You also nearly got a chainsaw in the face. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Why are 90% of the pictures upside down on the thread but when you click on them they are the right way round! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Nice job mate. Have you oiled it as I have a cedar table out side and it's much darker. Danish oil will bring out the grain a treat. Also how did you get the 'logs' at the ends so parallel did you use a chainsaw mill to cut a sliver off or just carefully freehand? Either way looks good. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Havn't thought of that may see if the camera on the phone is any good. Good idea for those of you who have cameras show us your work. You don't have to be fast to be a good climber. I was always told to hone your skill first then speed up. If you reduce a tree efficiently then your groundsman (I'm sure there are people on hear who have thought the groundsman is having a hard day whilst I'm swinging around admiring the veiw) will be flat out. Hes not always flat out mind Dead wooding is harder on the climber than the groundy. Mick dempsy you probably had the same experience with Tom sargent my grounds man brother in law! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
