Wood-be

thank you David they do look woody and are definitely solid to the touch. I have been looking all afternoon at cankers, fungi and other strange slightly tree related shenanigans on the internet but i still haven't even found a picture that even resembles what i have found. The thing i find strange is they are hard and almost look like they are made from dried up resin of sorts but why the visable growth rings, why are they flat, why do they seem to be originating from one spot and radiating out, why are they growing sideways? and finally they seem to be growing out from an old bacterial canker which has been encapsulated. when we tapped the tree it definitely had a different 'ring' (but sound solid) to it than the other ash near it which has got a bacterial canker running to about 15' up but none of these odd growths. I might send the pics to defra as i am stumped (pun intended)

So I'm a bit stumped, i have seemed to of found a sideways growing bracket of sorts. Its on an ash stem but i have also seen smaller ones on a large cedar of Lebanon. can some one tell what these are please?

Thank you for your reply. 400kgs is quite a lot of chip. probably getting on to 1m3 depending on density of wood. if i tracked the chipper to the bottom of a garden would i be able to take the chipper element off the tracked chassis and add wheels to the chipper whilst fitting the barrow to the tracked chassis and use both items together? then in revers when going home?

That's interesting how much can it carry/tip?

seems a bit of an expensive way round trying to move the cs100 about. I have used a mates CS 100 for the day and found its a good machine but any slight incline or bumpy ground (moles are the main culprit) then your legs are burning and your leaving tramlines through the lawn. Shorley the tracked machine would only damage the ground when turning? does anyone on hear own a TB100? would the chipper part unbolt from the tracked chassis and could you fit a tipping wheel barrow to the chassis of the tracked part (obviously with carefull design and enginering).

Hi All, so, I am in the market for a 'Wee Chipper'. (i'm sure the question has been asked before but as there is 183 pages on this thread and i am on daddy day care to a very sick 5 year old i don't have the time to read the whole thing) so far i have narrowed it down to the Puruzzo TB100-C Tracked chipper, the Greenmech CS100 and the Jo Beau M400. The Puruzzo is tracked so is leading at the moment as most tree work i do are either in huge estate gardens, so quite a trek to push/pull or are a bit steep and i have struggled to get the 200kg machines up the hill and out of the garden (i managed to get that Timberwolf gravity fed machine stuck in a garden and had to pull it out with a 4:1 pulley). I would appreciate other peoples opinions and options as i cant make my mind up. Cheers

Thanks for that david its starting to make more sence the more i refresh the brain cells with all of this. Either way i recon the rot is quite advanced in this oak as it has taken a good 50% of the heatwood out of the broken limb. Thanks again for the help.

Got some better photos as i have had a bit longer to look at the fungus. The second one i cut a lower bit off which was much more supple than the one above so my thinking of resinacium is wrong i think. The first one does look like Heterobasidion annosum but i have never seen it in an oak before. First time for everything.

I thought Heterobasidion annosum was found in conifers? The second one was stiff to the touch not rock hard like the applanatum or the pfeifferi it is quite thin tho.

A bit late but i heard back from Alice Holts and its a microscopic mite. Nothing you can do about it apart from burning the leaf litter. They don't harm the tree but if it has a very bad infestation then they can cause the leaf to curl.

It has more than likley got both as the heartwood looks like its got brown rot but the stuff found on the floor under it suggested white rot to me. hence my thinkings are ganoderma resinaceum.

Hello, I am having difficulties finding an exact match on these following pictures of a bracket fungus. I need to be pretty certain what it is. If my hunch of Ganoderma Resinaceum is correct then the 70ft oak will need to come down in stages to 50% its size as there is a war memorial, road, benches, power cables, bt lines and a footpath underneath it. the village wants to keep the tree if they can even if it is half the size and hollow! Please can anyone shed light on this. The first picture shows an over extended lower limb (about 10ft off the ground) which has snapped and you can just make out the white rot at the top of the crack. which leads me to believe the rot has spread quite a way up the truck already. Thanks for any advice in advance.

Why don't you use a drone to take a photo. They go prity high and have a fairly wide camera lense. For a tree survey I took a photo of a clients 13 acre property and the drone was only half way up and I had to erase a lot of the neighbouring properties garden aswell. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

There is nothing wrong with asking for Pl, certs and recommendations. After all, if everything is in place and your good at what you do and you can prove it with the paperwork and recommendations, then you shouldn't have a problem. Just take a bit more care and do a good job and when all is done and nothing is damaged you can psychologicaly flip him the finger. Only problem then is the money!!!! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I have spoken to a tree officer mate of mine and he recons it's a rear leaf miner. He hasn't seen it before and nor has out local tree officer so going to send it off to the forestry commission research center to have it diagnosed! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Hi all, A client if mine is worried about there copper beech tree. It has purple markings on the underside of some of the leaves. Are these marks on the leaves left from leaf minners? I personally have never seen this or in the years of being a tree surgeon I have never worked on a copper beech. Cheers for the help Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I would install a static brace. I personally would install cobra bracing over any bracing which means drilling into the tree. If the tree will not damage anything if it did brake then brace it and leave it no need to reduce as the union hasn't failed yet. We only reduce a tree after bracing if the unions have broken. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

That's a line of trees. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

You will only get through and through boards with an alaskan mill. I have a ms 880, 47" sugihara bar and a 52" alaskan mill. If you want to produce as much quarter sawn wood as possible then it is a circular saw mill is what you need. Get a grinding machine (one that clamps onto your bar as so you get a constant tooth length and set which makes a massive difference on the quality of the finished surface on the board. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

I personally wouldn't belt sand redwood, (I am a cabinet maker and tree surgeon) redwood is very soft and if you are trying to get a fine finish put the belt sander in the bin. Get a smothing plain to flatten the worst of the bumps then a number 7 jointing plane to flatten it then use a cabinet scrapper and you will end up with a surface that will not need sanding at all. The belt sander will leave funny fury bits. This is where the belt is joined together it takes a larger/heavier amount off. Don't get me wrong a belt sander is brilliant but only in the right application. Flattening boards is definitely not it. Invest in some elbow grease and you will be surprised. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Yeap been there done that. Atleast it's not as bad as putting chain oil in the fuel tank of the chainsaw. That's what my groundie did to his saw recently. Won't be letting that one lie for while!!!! Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

This is what the rhs says about it. I'm sure they can't be wrong aswell Our tree has been identified as contributing to subsidence in a neighbouring property. We would prefer not to lose the tree. Will pruning be an effective solution? When a specific tree has been found to be the main cause of subsidence having it felled is usually the most permanent solution. However,*tree reduction*can reduce the amplitude of movement so could be considered as a way to manage the problem. To be effective, pruning needs to reduce the crown volume of the tree by at least 70 percent and be repeated on a regular basis such as every three years. Crown thinning (as opposed to crown reduction) has been found to be ineffective at reducing transpiration rates. Also it should be noted that in cases of permanent deficit (i.e. London clay soils where low permeability leads to deeper permanent drying), felling the tree poses a risk of progressive heave. If there is a risk of significant heave, the only effective solution may be to have the property underpinned Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Um not sure what your getting at. If you reduce a tree over a period of time (you can reduce the roots aswell vat that's a whole different ball game) then you are allowing water to re-wet the soil under the tree slowley and minimise the effect of heave. Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Blimey, hands up who thinks he is making a big deal out of nothing. That tree is to far way to cause any structural defects with the wall or house. The sure fire way of covering your back if your really worried is to reduce it back over 5-7 years. That is what structural engineers will say as that is what they have advised many of my clients with trees which are three times the size and 6 meters away from the house. This way the ground will heave naturally and cope with the change in water volume ect ect. Regarding your footings if you are on clay and your house was built properly it may be on piles with heaving voids around them and around the connecting footings. The best way to think of it is if clay is actually water. You either float on it (just like all old light weight timber frame houses do) or you put your feet on the bottom of the pond or sea and hold you house up ontop of the waters surface. It's up to you I personally would advise a 5 year reduction posibly leaving it pollarded. But I wouldn't see any problem in just pollarding it from the start. If it's diseased then when it dies figures crossed your house and wall won't float off down the garden 😀 Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

If it has been shot at by air riffle pellets then you should see tiny holes on the stem or branches from (obviously) where the pallettes have gone in. Eucalyptus have a soft out layer of bark so you should see this easily. Obviously if there are pellets then they will be on side of the tree from where the pellets have been fired from. If there is and its obvious that they have come from a certain direction other than from your house then that's criminal damage. Unfortunately eucalyptus is rather brittle so I would definitely get it dead wooded as soon as but probably better to have it pollarded as you will be able to get a nice pollard out of that tree. Get some binoculars and have a good look and see if you can see any damage. Good luck Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk