SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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I agree with that, no problem - I use 95VP(X)/H30 on my 339xp, that is comparable to the 410/411!
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Not all .325 .050 bars are narrow kerf ones, even though most of them are on some markets!
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Do those bars have the combination K095/K041 bar mount?
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A 64 dl chain in .325 will usually fit a 15" bar, and not a 16" one.
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Yes, surely! However, on the 560xp I would change to 3/8" if it didn't come with it, and even try 3/8x8 with a 15" bar (you need a standard (large) 7-spline drum for those rims though). 3/8"x7 and .325x8 will fit the small 7-spline drums those saws usually come with in Europe.
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The 2095 is not related in any way to the 395xp, except that the model was made at the Husky factory. Very few parts will interchange. However, it will of couse be suitable for about the same use.
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I agree with staying With the kW specs, as a mix of hp(m) and hp(i) numbers will be confusing. There is something odd with 395 specs, as Husky, the original spec was 5.2 kW, and I don't really know why they say 4.9 in some documents..... Anyway, max power output is just a "snapshot" of one point of the power curve, so it is far from the full story.....
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I totally agree - the 560xp should fit perfectly. Most "issues" were with the early saws, and many of them really proved to be operator errors (or even dealer errors) when it was looked into. Some early carbs were faulty though. It is important to read what the manuals say about starting and run-in of those saws, as not everything is like it used to be.... Also buy it from a dealer that knows those saws, and have the test equipment for them.
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That was pointers (possibilities), not a list of actual problems....
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Yes, or more exactly, from the front of the saw body (usually front of the oil tank, but not always) to the top of a cutter at the tip of the bar. "Called" length usually is inaccurate, and in some cases downright misleading....
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My comments were about newer Huskys with outboards, not about older Stihls!
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It is an older basic design, and suffer from that in some ways - but those that have them usually like them a lot. However, there are many that prefer the lighter and more modern 390xp. I guess the choise really depends on what you are going to use the saw for. I don't have one, so this is based on what I have read on different saw forums the last decade +.
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Yes!
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:lol:
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I am very far from a fanatic when it comes to saw brands, it is just that Husky has been turning out the best saws for some time by now - the last great Stihl was the MS361 in 2003. There surely are some mediocre Huskys as well, and I always was open about that fact.
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Pretty much the same, but the activity and turn-around of info by far is largest on the AS. Btw, I really don't understand why wyk suddenly has become hostile to me, he never was earlier. All I did was pointing out to him (at two occations) that ounces and tenths of a pound isn't the same......
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Btw, no piston stop or "clutch tool" is needed with the newer outboard clutch Huskys, just a suitable screwdriver or chisel, and something to hit it sharply with. As a bonus, there are no small e-clips or washers to loose in the process.
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I suppose you haven't heard about wedges?
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No, it isn't down - I just am a member of several saw forums (at least ten total), now including this one....
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If the saw was a Husky with an outboard clutch, you wouldn't have needed a piston stop!
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The 21LPX likely is the best choise of all on that saw, provided the wood is reasonably "clean".
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The answer no doubt is 560xp or 2260 - the MS362 is an "also-ran" at best, and the MS391 a pure insult! Btw, the MS361 is a very nice saw, but sadly NLA for a while.
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I see nothing wrong with using a 20" occationally - the main issue with it is that it destroys the nice handling of the saw.
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I have never found the answer to that question - and it isn't because I haven't tried! They started making them in 1988 or so....
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Pretty much, yes - but the 298 had a smaller starter that often failed (was replaced by 2100/2101 ones), and is lacking the manual oiler.
