SteveA

Humbaur have a great range of tipper trailers: https://www.humbaur.com/en/trailer/tipper-and-construction-machinery-transporters.html

Cheers - that's good to know as I'll be crosscutting lots of oak soon (for a cordwood floor).... think maybe I should use the Granberg chain for that.

Great explanation, thanks Eddy - I think I'll go full chisel next time I need to order. cheers, steve p.s.... are the Granberg (Alaskan milling) chains full chisel?

Sounds ideal for the farm but not ideal for our 3 year old boy! cheers

Sorry, I didn't mean to pigeonhole staffies.... yes they can be very cuddly as well. The one I knew could be very lovely (once it had settled down out of its maniac NUTTER!! phase! Lol). We're leaning towards a Jack Russell Terrier: Spartan Dogs - Jack Russell Terrier

Thanks for all the advice/ thoughts. A cat or two isn't possible as my partner is very allergic to them. cheers, Steve

Doesn't full chisel put more strain on the engine?.... faster in the cut and faster in requiring a new saw, perhaps??

Cheers, a bit too big for us.

He'll certainly still be helping us out in the practical sense as well Codlasher.

I've been on a clear-felling job with Slack Ma Girdle (Murray) and one of the lads has got a little dog known as 'The Mammal Killer'.... I was very impressed at its mouse sniffing, digging & eating ability. It's some kind of Jack Russell, Fox Terrier cross, I think?? So we want a similar dog for our farm.... to eat rats, mice & maybe the odd squirrel (if fast enough). Yet also very important that it doesnt bite people/ strangers and especially children. I can't stand Staffordshire Bull Terriers.... far too jumpy and annoying. We looked at some Jack Russell pups - but possibly a bit short in the leg. Any recommendations? cheers, steve

Yet he doesn't mention the negative ways a lot of beekeepers currently keep their bees. I think he's interested in the number of people clicking/ watching his video; like I did!

Feeling sad Patrick Whitefield (Permaculture teacher & all round good person) passed away today. I had the pleasure of meeting and chatting with him a couple of times - he was such an inspiring person & had so much warmth to his personality. Patrick Whitefield 1949-2015 | Permaculture Magazine

I only tend to use a Silky Natanoko for all my hand cutting jobs.

Amazing how a thread about high-lift wedges can be diverted so pathetically!

Nobody owns those either.

"Nobody owns anything". Basicly owning things (like land, or resources) is a human construct. When you're dead you won't own a thing....

Nobody owns anything. Meanwhile whilst we're breathing it's just stuff we think we own.

Agreed ~ nature does wonders at converting things back to looking, um, natural. p.s.... we find tractors / wheeled vehicles do way more damage compared with a digger (that isn't being turned on the spot).

If it were me I wouldn't have this problem because my New Years resolution was to stop buying anything from Amazon. But on one hand it does look a bit naughty to be selling Oregon stuff that isn't Oregon - on the other hand Jon from Rye Oils seems to be going out of his way to fix the problem. Give the guys a chance to sort it out, I say....

Think you're right about ground clearance being a negative. I sometimes think a front/ back dozer would be of most benefit for pulling out sections from the woods where it's tight to turn around.... and would save churning up the ground so much; with less turning. I'm sure I did see a photo of a digger with twin dozers but maybe it was a dream?! ....can't find any photos now!

Yeah, the dozer can be at front or back.... or even left or right! (depending on cab position). I tend to prefer to use/see the dozer blade at the front. Some modern diggers have a dozer blade at the front & back don't they?

For beginners try to use the mini-digger slowly and as smoothly as possible - try to work without jarring the machine at all. It's an extension of your own body.....think in 3-dimensions. After a few days of solid use (and a few sleeps) the controls become more natural & familiar. Lower the engine speed slightly to save on fuel & noise.... they are still very powerful at lower revs..... use full throttle occasionally, if you really need to. Or full throttle if you need to drive it somewhere at tortoise-neck speed! Leave the engine ticking over for a few minutes after doing some heavy work (or tracking) to let the hydraulic fluid get pumped around & cooled down. There's a fair bit of maintenance.... the maintenance schedule is there to help; read it. Expanding tracks are far more stable. Save the soil structure by driving in big circles. cheers, steve

Good questions Pete - looking forwards to hearing some answers for this. Cheers

Absolutely Yes! We're building a barn with Larch at the moment. Not sure if you've seen it but there was a Channel 4 Grand Designs house in Monmouthshire (near Tintern Abbey) that used Larch and they were required to have it strength tested (because it was a bit of an unknown). The results came back way stronger than other wood varieties. Cheers, Steve

The first time I used a chainsaw: a) Which way does the chain go on? b) No PPE (apart from a loose fitting helmet with mashed up mesh) c) Had no idea how to check & use the chain brake (I worked it out, eventually) d) Very blunt chain - how to sharpen & adjust tension??! e) Never heard about kickback (but I do remember it happening a few times) So with all that in mind I went on to fell a tree in my partners front garden. It came down beautifully (the top narrowly missing smashing in the front window, down to pure luck). I then went to chainsaw through a trunk to the side of the house - but by this stage the chain was so blunt it had no hope of cutting anything. So I gave up on the chainsaw and picked up a blunt axe (which worked better!).... then (with me swinging like a monkey) the trunk came over.... on top of me, and straight over my elbow! Ouch!! .....nothing broken but a lot of pain for a month. Following doing my CS30 (& with hindsight): I think DIY use of chainsaws is absolutely crazy & there should be much stricter legislation. I also think training courses (directly related to health & safety) should not be charged VAT.... because the best way to avoid accidents is by education. This would save huge amounts of money at the NHS & Sickness Benefit. I consider myself lucky.