Peasgood

Stephill SSD10000S was my choice. 10kva s a little more than your 6-8 but a bit too much is way better than not quite enough. British design and made but has a Kubota engine. Mine is on a pallet but you can get a trailer for more money. Came off Hampshire generators who are very helpful with info plus good service and I have used them a couple of times now. They sell Hyundai but steered me to the Stephill as a much better make.

All lime trees too, but everyone already knows that.

I have one of the twin blade Oregon mulchers on my strimmer, they are very impressive on brambles. Way beyond what I would expect of them tbh. It would be a lot easier and quicker to use my flail on a tractor but the strimmer would do it.

I would advise not to use Onduline, the cheapish corrugated bitumen stuff that looks like corrugated tin. It fails too easily.

Lived like a pauper and worked like a slave all my days. Never thought I would have much to show for it but things fell lucky along with a few lucky decisions and I am probably what most folk would call rich now. Nice house worth a fair sum and all paid for, cash in the bank, no debts and other assets too. Still work because I know no better but more of a part time/hobby basis now. Still put 12 hour days in when needed but also days where I just sit and look out of the window at the rain if that's what suits me. I feel very lucky and appreciate all of it, none is taken for granted.

Roast pork in the Dutch oven on the BBQ. Just stuck it in there with some carrots, parsnips, garlic and potatoes. A bit of salt and pepper, some honey poured over it, sprig of rosemary and half a bottle of apple juice. Started pouring down when nearly done so gave it an hour to finish off in the wood stove. Probably the best cooked roast pork I ever had, absolutely gorgeous and even the missus agreed. Was only a supermarket joint out of the freezer, nothing special. Did lamb shank in it last week, that was very nice too. Not my pic but same deal, Petromax Dutch oven just sat on a few coals with some on top. Amazing how well they cook and for very little fuel.

I'm a fan of corrugated iron. You can clad with osb and tin over the top to prevent condensation.

Swiss Army knife-Farmer. I have got lots of knives but find this one the most useful and gets used every day for something. Also have wallet with cash and cards, key fob for pickup (even if I am in my van) and key to shed.

I don't think there is a great lot between any of them tbh other than 106 may get too big.

I would think it would benefit from a stake the first few years but would probably be OK after that.

Bramley is a vigorous variety and will make a big tree, mine are on M106 and they can either be monsters out of control at 15m height or they can be managed through pruning at a height where all fruit can be picked from the ground by hand. They are very good at shooting straight up but give them a year or two and the weight of fruit bring those branches back down again. You have to be brave because if you trim those branches earlier you will make them remain upright. M26 may be an easier to control tree but I am grafting onto M25 for specimen trees. Have to say so far my M106 are far more vigorous than the M25, not sure what is going on there. Your tree is pretty fecked with all that canker, cut it off and deal with whatever happens next. It might die, it might flourish. Good luck

Not sure what they are, maybe a red sport of James Grieve from the appearance and description but only a guess. They are definitely not Discovery.

My understanding of mildew is that it is a surface infection rather than one that enters the plant. Having said that the infected shoots are certainly a source for new infections next year and are best pruned, taken away and burnt in the dormant season to reduce that overwintered primary infection. It also requires specific conditions to thrive, temperature, humidity, air movement etc and not likely to infect a plantation dependant on what year they were planted/ propagated. I don't know of any spray specific for oak but potassium bicarb plus a wetting agent is well known to kill mildew as well as being as environmentally friendly as you can. I use Maxicrop Triple as the wetting agent as it is effective and also as benign as possible. I does require repeated sprays and does rely on sunlight to do the killing. It is more of an application targeted at the leaves during the growing season that you start early in the year with. I would remove the infected shoots and burn them but I wouldn't be taking the whole tree out. I know it can look a mess but it doesn't kill the tree. My knowledge is based on mildew in apples but I cannot think why it wouldn't apply to oak too.

I sat my Oxdale on an Ifor flatbed trailer and ran it off extension pipes from the tractor hydraulics, it would have been better still if actually fastened to the trailer but wasn't enough of an issue to ever make that modification. Those pipes actually came from Hand as a result of me complaining about the splitter they sent, it went on for months of them promising a new splitter but ended with me saying just give me some new pipes. I'm sure you already figured it out but a length of wood the right size held against the bit that gets stuck behind the blade and the bottom of the ram pushes the stuck bit out on the return stroke. A feature pretty much designed into the Eastonmade Axis.

Yep that's me but you can feck off with the old bit, I am only 60!. As for running it backwards, yes I am sure you are right because it did have more power if piped different but the return never worked if it was that way around. I never got it to run how I thought it should but it worked well enough. It arrived to me very badly put together, it would not function at all because the guards over the levers stopped them from working, the pipes weren't in the right place along with various other things. Yes the height was wrong too, I sat it on a pallet when using it.

The reason I ask is because you rarely see or hear of them. I had one that I did buy direct from them some years ago but I sold it on eBay about 5 years ago. Sounds like it could be the same one. It was a good splitter and I picked that one out especially as the ram pushed the log through the blade. Makes so much more sense to me, especially if you have an elevator that moves the logs off to an IBC, trailer or whatever. Over the years I have had an Oxdale, a Hand, a Posch Hyrdrocombi and an Eastonmade 12-22. I regret selling the Oxdale most. The Posch is a better splitter than the Oxdale but I can't get on with the one hand operation and haven't figured out a workaround. I know why they are there but they do slow you down and can make it more dangerous at times. The 12-22 latches on the split stroke and the return stroke, it doesn't take a lot of imagination to see how that can go wrong. It makes me cringe when I see people leaning across them to deal with split logs.

Where did you get it if you don't mind me asking.

It sounds to me that your Oxdale is doing OK tbh. It's one thing to do an IBC in 40 minutes but how long would it take you to do 6? It isn't just about splitting the logs, you have to deal with the split logs and ensure the unsplit log supply is there too. TBH anything beyond an Oxdale very nearly becomes a 2 man job to be efficient. Having said that I think a Posch HydroCombi might suit you but you need the table that goes under the blade (not the cutting billets setup) though I don't suppose they are much different than a Venom. Haven't used a Venom so can't comment. Eastonmade 12-22 cuts wood very quick but you still have to deal with the logs, and the mountain of waste!

If you want one with a glass door then get one but be aware the glass is often sooty anyway. Not hard to burn it off by opening up the fire a bit. Your fire has a resale value so reduces the cost of new. If you want more heat than you are getting a good service of what you have will likely achieve that and cost less. CO2 isn't particularly relevant as what is produced is purely part of the CO2 cycle, you are not digging up and burning fossil fuels which is the problem (if there is one).

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I think the reason is the mix can cause acids that eat into the metal quite aggressively.

I don't know of any brushcutter that would do it. A garden shredder maybe and it would have to be a reasonable quality one.

Must be some apple tree if its roots are causing issues on the other side of their extension. Apple trees in my experience do not have big root systems and I've never seen any significantly sized roots extend beyond the dripline. I can't offer any professional advice further to what has been written but my expertise is apple trees rather than the law. If I was in that situation it sounds like the tree would have to go but there would be a brick through each of their windows.

It might but you wouldn't want to leave a diagonal cut.

The bigger stuff cuts a lot easier if you can push the branch away from the blade as you cut. Makes quite a difference and can mean the difference between cutting or not.