Peasgood

I got the two blade version earlier this year, very impressed with it. Does seem to act as a flywheel and slows both revving up and slowing down, never was sure on if that was doing the machine any good or not.

Shoot or knock them on the head are the only legal options.

Cage trap. Much more effective than an air rifle. As for air rifles, I would always favour a .22 over .177 for hunting/live quarry just because it delivers more killing power imo. I don't think any difference in accuracy (if there is one) would ever be noticed, it is an endless argument though. If on a budget buy second hand, a lot of people buy a gun and then realise they have nowhere to shoot it and it's not for them so sell off a practically unused gun. If it were me I would be looking at Air Arms as well, Weight of the gun is a big thing so go as light as you can find unless you are just shooting out of the living room window like I do and so don't carry it. TX200 HC .22 is my current air rifle, weighs too much but can drop rabbits and crows at over 50 yards which is incredible for an air rifle. It will put 5 pellets in the same hole at 15 yards too if I do my bit. edyt: Gareth beat me to it but pretty much said the same thing.

Son has a heavily modded L200, suspension lift. winch bumper, bull bar,side rails, aftermarket wheels, rear tray etc. Insured with NFU and whenever he declares his latest mod they accept it as non performance enhancing so no increase in premiums.

Looks like they do some pretty cool stuff.

I wasn't meant to be doing anything in particular, I was just pottering about. I think I then went off to dig a few potatoes for tea but ended up mending a fork with a broken handle.

I still think it classes as pottering, I stopped for a brew and decided a kip on the sofa for 2 hours between doing the inside and the outside. Racing around and getting it done in 5 minutes would disqualify it as pottering. I don't think much of my life actually goes beyond pottering tbh.

Cut the garden hedge. With the tractor.

There's another pic in the same place of a more modern tractor (Massey Ferguson) doing the same but damned if I can find it. edit: found it My step gran had a small place on Trencrom, she used to go down to Hayle with the pony and cart for seaweed for fertiliser.

It is typical symptoms of phytophthora and not restricted to Lawsons, it isn't typical of poisoning where they usually all get sick at once.

Yeah goldfinch are ok at that, it's the tits that don't age so well

Nothing on my feeders recently, I think the sparrowhawk has scared them off. Did see a bluetit the ther day for the first time in weeks. Out and about today I saw a charm of goldfinch, must have been 50+.

Yep, just change your name to Clarence and off you go.

It is a new ish rule they have invented, it's not even a rule really but many constabularies will not renew without doctors letter. My old surgery wanted £120 for the letter, new surgery does it for £40. Anything over £60 is a pisstake imo and you can go online and do it through Medicert for £60 ish. I don't shoot much at all these days but very reluctant to give up my guns yet, my non ticket air rifle is probably sufficient for my purposes.

You do need to experiment because your 2000W inverter is probably 2000 peak rather than constant and your pump may well peak higher than that at startup. In theory it should be 1100W when running so the theory says it will be ok. Please bear in mind I am more of an enthusiastic amateur rather than a pro sparky.

A 200 amp 12v lithium battery should power your pump for one hour ish, you would need a 2000W inverter to do it. I would think your ibc would be empty in much less than 1 hour unless your hose size and length restricts the flow a lot. You can charge the battery pretty quick with a suitable charge controller if your alternator is up to it.

Prees Heath, not Press Heath

Mended the cast gutter on my shed that I broke the day after I last mended it (2 years ago)

I don't know that they are better overall but they are easier to apply, more choice of colours if that matters to you and they stick really well. Very durable too.

I would choose from Skip paint, Bedec barn paint or floor paint in that order. Any of them would do a great job.

Don't mention it.

I picked the last of my tomatoes on Christmas day last year out of my tunnel. Well impressed with that.

I have a Nordica range cooker and yes there should be an access point in the flue. Something like in the pic below. The screw comes out to remove the round plate so you can get your brushes up. I don't think you are going to access it any other way unless you go on the roof and push the brushes down. The soot will fall down the back of the oven box and to clear it you have to remove the plate that you can see under the oven when the door is open. Remove the two Allen bolts and the plate comes off, you then rake the soot out. Take the rings off the hob and give everything a damned good clean from in there too and if it has been swept there will be a build up behind the flap that the oven/water control operates. Don't forget to clean the ash off the water pipes in the firebox and on top of the oven while the rings are off. Good idea to do that more often than you get your chimney swept as it makes a big difference to how the fire and oven work. Very good stoves, this is my second (moved house) and my heating, DHW and cooking rely on the stove.

Neither is difficult but I wouldn't be drilling into the frame, it will weaken it and will break the galvanising layer. Mine is one of those mentioned with a wooden rail at approx navel height. Great idea but it's not so great in practice in my experience. Next time I cover it I will have a bigger sheet and bury along the sides. The whole point of a tunnel is to get that earlier warmth and I find you lose that advantage with the flappy sheet below the rail letting in draughts and cold. If you can figure out a good way of securing the bottom edge of that flappy sheet it could well work but I haven't. People say they can get too hot or there's too much condensation on fully clad but you can always open the doors at both ends to cure that. I only have an actual door at one end, the other has the frame but mesh over it instead of polythene. Quite fine mesh, a wasp wouldn't get through for example. As for heat, it gets to some extreme temperatures in there but never had anything suffer as long as whatever it is has been watered. I have a full range of plants in there from the usual lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes etc, veg such as caulis, kale, cabbage and also strawberries and apple trees that I have propagated and grown on. The apples will be planted into a new orchard but there are some already bearing fruit in there. Had a couple of cherry trees do well too. I think (hope) buried polythene will be better at keeping slugs out which is a major issue this year. Most unusual thing in there this year is a nest of pheasants that hatched just a few weeks ago. I wasn't expecting them but they did a good job of thinning out the crickets and grasshoppers that were thriving in there. If you want to fasten a rail to the side use exhaust clamp type U-bolts. Timber on the outside and U-bolts around the hoops, also an effective way of joining timber lengths if you can get them to meet at the same point as the hoop.

The tape will increase the life of the polythene and it is worth taking off the old if you are fitting new. I'd suggest using a hot air gun or similar to assist with taking the old off. You need to work out the value of the year or two extra life of the polythene against the cost of the hotspot tape, money wise I doubt there's much in it but reskinning sooner can be a bit of a ballache. An assistant helps reskinning but it is no big deal on your own, all the assistant is good for is having someone to blame if you put a hole in it. Reskinned mine plenty of times on my own, 18'x64' so not a small one. Warm still evening is favourite, perfect conditions here right now.