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se7enthdevil

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Everything posted by se7enthdevil

  1. whenever i've seen trees looking like that i've always thought that it was fire damage.
  2. looking in the book the leaves look a bit like the caucasian wingnut?
  3. not sure i can answer that completely? there are often differences down at the microscopic and porous level but it's not always possible to differentiate between species in the same genus, there are times where the difference in the species is down to the flowers and leaves with no difference in the wood at all. if you can not tell exactly what the species is you can usually get it down to the genus.
  4. willow isn't much use for anything in my opinion. birch will rot in 5 minutes if you let it. not sure about alder as i've never had any. ash and sycamore can be left for a while before any major decay takes place i think.
  5. sorry but i have to laugh at a wickes wood chopping board:lol::lol: where are you located, you may be able to get some advice from a fellow wood crafter. if you are anywhere near me you are welcome to pop round for a bit of tuition.
  6. if it stumps both me and lignatarre (whom i may ask to help if i can't work it out) then i will be sending it to the states with a load of other samples to be put on the wood database so he could send that to be identified as a last resort.
  7. if they don't have what you need let me know and i'll try and recommend someone who should have them.
  8. for woods that will last 15-25 years you need to look at oak, robinia, cedar of lebanon, yew, genuine mahogany, balau, western red cedar, ekki, sweet chestnut and iroko. for woods that will last 25years+ then you will want things like teak, opepe, greenheart, jarrah, anjelim vermelho, denya, padauk and curupay. out of those i would go for either iroko or opepe for good hardwoods but if you can get some cedar of lebanon then get that as you will make the sign nice and light. most of them you can get from whitmores timber.
  9. the pear is for table skittles so 3" squares is all i'd need.
  10. possibly, as long as they are up to standard. here is a page giving you an idea of what they sell in boxwood. Type A - Boxwood - Lawrence art supplies since 1859
  11. for me most green woods are £15-20ft3. dry i would expect to pay between £35-60 depending on quality.
  12. i'd be interested if i had room. how small a space will it stow away in?
  13. for that price it would be kiln dried and reasonable quality. i've seen some spectacular stuff go for £50-60. any green wood should only be £15-20 in my opinion.
  14. in my opinion there are two things you should do to mill a good sized pear. first one is to take it to a band mill and go through and through in 1" and a couple of 2" boards, these can then be used for furniture. the second is to cut it up for endgrain engraving blanks. these are often 4"x6" and one inch thick of endgrain to be engraved for printers blocks. boxwood is usually used but for the larger sizes this is almost impossible to get so substitutes are used.
  15. i think this is the thread you are on about? http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/56194-spalted-holly-worm.html
  16. could it be in the sorbus genus?
  17. you are best off leaving it to warp otherwise it will crack badly and then be completely unusable.
  18. this pair have incredible voices for their age. . [ame] [/ame]
  19. no idea, an acorn would help.
  20. didn't know kew did actually do that. good to know if i'm ever really stuck. this is why i wish i lived in the states as the USDA have an identification service which allows up to 5 samples per year for free.
  21. lucombe oak?
  22. opening the book it looks very much like the carries thorn, crataegus x lavallei. not 100% sure though.
  23. could it be a laurel leaf holly? ilex laurifolia?
  24. no experience of any but i wouldn't go with fox. record are apparently a very good company if something goes wrong so buy that one if your heart is set on one of those three.
  25. just thinking that myself.

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