se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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you don't have to turn it now mick, if it's dropped first you then drill the pith and seal the ends as this will keep it whilst you find the time to eventually turn it.
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yes jon, as long as the logs have not already started to split you could do that, perhaps a 1/2" hole down the pith. mick, i would drop the tree now if it is dead as cherry will spalt quickly.
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when using small diameter logs for lamps you will be drilling the pith out of it so releasing the potential for it splitting as it dries. quartered wood will have nice variations of grain as it changes from a crown cur surface to the quartered face. both can easily be usee it's down to you as to what you want to do.
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painting would look ok but i'd be tempted to use different timbers to denote different colours. the head doesn't look right in my opinion ian, those helmets were tight fits...
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has nobody got any ideas? i'd like to know if it still exists?
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sounds like a good milling log if anyone wants it. there will be some good sized quartersawn boards in that one.
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as per title. got it from this website,. David Gunton's Hardwood Floors, hardwood flooring, parquet, marquetry and boards, especially wideboards, in oak, ash, maple, beech, walnut, cherry, and many other woods. .
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does it have to me 100% portable? an old stenner sounds like it would be great for what you are after.
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i have cut the odd bit of dry oak on my ripsaw and yes it goes through it like a hot knife through butter so why not get a lucas mill or similar type saw? mine's only been 40 years old from a porch but it was bone dry 8" oak and it left a much better surface than any band saw i could think of.
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i may be corrected but i think the view is that if you are looking at a woodmizer then look elsewhere first. they seem to be expensive these days. big j went to europe to see his mill before he bought it (their name escapes me) but they seemed to have a good product.
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these look fairly cut proof. .
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a fella in essex was milling and drying some elm. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/84133-ulmus-x-hollandica-worth-milling.html http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaw-carving-forum/88095-elm-dover.html some trees were about 3' wide.
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well if you go by the way timber is measured and use the hoppus foot guide then that will give you some idea. a hoppus foot is almost exactly 1 1/4ft3 so in theory the waste from sawing would be about 20%. there is room for an argument that with modern machinery it could be as low as 10-15% but i expect it relies on what you are producing.
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square edged or waney?
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that's not bad i think. i got lucky with some old canvas signs like the ones that you see on an old lorry trailer in the fields as you go down the motorway and got 4 for £100, each 10'x20'. they are the best tarps i've ever had...
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Spallted beech, too good for firewood?
se7enthdevil replied to big chris the log's topic in Firewood forum
one is still nice and hard and the other is soft as hell... some spalted beech doesn't look that great but i have to say that this stuff looks way too good for the fire... -
How do you clean your circular saw blades ?
se7enthdevil replied to gensetsteve's topic in Firewood forum
try cutting a nice bit of hardwood and that should knock the resin off. -
looks alot like tulipwood, can you show a pick of the bark?
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having used quite a few machines in the last 13 years i'd go with a cast iron job any day for 6x6" posts but if a little thicknesser is all you have then go for it.
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i never knew this, i'll have to chuck a can in tomorrow.
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bowls are turned from along the grain and not from a ring of a tree, that lot has already been sliced up too small to do anything useful in my opinion...
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for nice stable timber everything should be quartersawn. 7x7" beech posts are likely to split badly so i would only use oak for those.
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the ends of those beeches will be a bit spalted and discoloured but the wood should be fine. the oak should also be o if the heartwood was sound when the tree died. you don't have to box heart the oak. if it's to be used for structural reasons then just make it a bigger diameter beam.
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doesn't look too structural but don't spin it too fast. as it was not rough turned it could still crack further but walnut can be quite forgiving.
